Thursday, April 30, 2015

Chez Poiret by Rosine c1912

Chez Poiret by Rosine: launched in 1912.





Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance for women, similar to L'Origan by Coty.
  • Top notes: neroli, orange, bergamot
  • Middle notes: carnation, violet, orange blossom, rose, jasmine
  • Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, musk, oakmoss

Poiret commissioned his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel to write a poem based on the perfume. Boutet wrote "Chez Poiret or At Poiret's":
"Sumptuous dream, legendary decor, a fantasy world which suddenly appears as if by magic, Magnificent visions, a dream from The Thousand and One Nights., with the incessant parade f the newest fineries, the boldest frills, the most exquisite refinements. A profusion of Chinese silks and Persian linens, Indian cloth, all made under unknown skies; a wealth of colors, clashing shades, blue, green, black and silver; extravagance invoking the memories of Carthage and Baghdad, pearl helmets and checkered tunics; rare metals and gems, ethereal furs and lame gauze; a dazzle, an ecstasy, the imperious and captivating perfume trailed by the triumphant coat of an empress from Asia."



Bottles:

Presented in a clear glass demilune bottle, topped with a semi-spheric jewel like glass stopper molded with four lines which could be had in either an emerald green or ruby red glass. The baudruchage cording would pass over these lines and down around the neck of the bottle to seal it and ended with four knotted tassels which spread out over the curve of the bottle. A round metallic gold embossed foil label, emblazoned with the Rosine "R" logo, sat right in the center of the bottle.

The squatty bottle was housed in a lovely hatbox shaped box covered with floral printed cotton. In the original presentation, this fabric dated to the 18th century, originated directly from Poiret's personal collection of antique textiles. This early presentation, which may have only been offered to his couture clients, was to be had with the red glass stopper. The baudruchage cords ended with decorative tassels and the bottle was completed with a round, gilded paper label on its belly. When the short surplus of the antique fabric ceased, Poiret had the pattern recreated in paper and the bottle was to be had with the green stopper. The red stoppered bottles are considered extremely rare to find today as these were made in a  very limited number.

Harper's Bazaar, Volume 56, 1921:
"Poiret continues to put out delicious fragrances; one of his latest, “Chez Poiret. Rosine,” is inimitably bottled in a half sphere with an emerald glass stopper and "Nuit de Chine," luxurious and oriental.."







Fate of the Fragrance:


It was still being sold in 1929 as seen in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico along with other Rosine perfumes:

Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, Chez Poiret, Chypre des Isles, Coeur en Folie, Connais Tu le Pays?, Hahna, Jasmin de la Riviera, Le Balcon, Le Bosquet d'Apollon, Le Coup d'Or, Le Fruit Defendu, La Rose de Rosine, Maharadjah, 1925, Nuit de Chine, Pierrot, Qui Es-Tu?, Sa Chambre, Sakya Mouni, Toute la Foret.."

Finally discontinued in 1930 and remaining stock was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices.




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