Chez Poiret by Rosine c1912

In 1912, the launch of the perfume Chez Poiret by Rosine coincided with a fascinating period in the world of fashion and luxury. Paul Poiret, a leading figure in the Parisian fashion scene, was renowned for his innovative designs that broke away from the constraints of traditional corseted fashion. Poiret's creations were characterized by their sumptuousness and exoticism, often drawing inspiration from Oriental themes and colors. His visionary approach revolutionized women's fashion, emphasizing comfort and freedom of movement, which were radical departures from the prevailing styles of the time.

The name "Chez Poiret" for a perfume would have been highly appealing for several reasons. Firstly, Paul Poiret was not just a fashion designer but a cultural icon whose avant-garde designs captured the imagination of fashionable women across Europe and America. Associating a perfume with his name would evoke the allure and sophistication of his couture, appealing to women who sought to embody the modern, liberated spirit he epitomized. The term "Chez," meaning "at the house of," further emphasized exclusivity and luxury, suggesting that the fragrance was a product of Poiret's esteemed fashion house.

During this era, around 1912, Paris was the undisputed center of the fashion world. Luxury liners like the Titanic ferried wealthy passengers to the city, where they would eagerly purchase the latest fashions and accessories from designers like Poiret. These travelers were not just buying clothes; they were buying into a lifestyle—a world of glamour and sophistication symbolized by figures like Paul Poiret.

Women of the time were drawn to Poiret not only for his designs but also for what he represented: a departure from Victorian-era norms towards a more modern, independent womanhood. His bold use of colors, luxurious fabrics, and incorporation of Eastern influences resonated with a desire for novelty and adventure among women who were increasingly asserting their rights and freedoms.

In summary, the launch of Chez Poiret by Rosine in 1912 tapped into the zeitgeist of the era—a time of burgeoning cultural change, increasing women's liberation, and the allure of Parisian luxury. The name itself carried connotations of exclusivity and avant-garde style, making it a compelling choice for fashionable women seeking to embody the spirit of the age through scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance for women, similar to L'Origan by Coty.

• Top notes: neroli, orange, bergamot, heliotrope, cinnamon, gardenia
• Middle notes: carnation, violet, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, patchouli, orris, opoponax
• Base notes: myrrh, incense, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, musk, oakmoss, styrax

Poiret commissioned his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel to write a poem based on the perfume. Boutet wrote "Chez Poiret or At Poiret's":

"Sumptuous dream, legendary decor, a fantasy world which suddenly appears as if by magic, Magnificent visions, a dream from The Thousand and One Nights., with the incessant parade f the newest fineries, the boldest frills, the most exquisite refinements. A profusion of Chinese silks and Persian linens, Indian cloth, all made under unknown skies; a wealth of colors, clashing shades, blue, green, black and silver; extravagance invoking the memories of Carthage and Baghdad, pearl helmets and checkered tunics; rare metals and gems, ethereal furs and lame gauze; a dazzle, an ecstasy, the imperious and captivating perfume trailed by the triumphant coat of an empress from Asia."

Scent Profile:

As you step into Paul Poiret's fashion salon, you are immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of opulence and exoticism. The air is filled with the scent of incense, weaving its rich, spicy tendrils around you, creating a mystical ambiance that enhances the sensory experience. The salon is adorned with fresh flowers, their delicate fragrance mingling with the heady notes of the perfumes displayed on ornate dressing tables.

In front of you, a display of vibrant fabrics and sumptuous garments catches your eye. The colors are rich and varied, reminiscent of exotic landscapes and distant cultures. You feel the luxurious textures under your fingertips as you admire the intricate embroidery and flowing silhouettes.

The fragrance of Chez Poiret by Rosine unfolds in layers, like the experience of trying on Poiret's creations. As you lift the bottle and inhale, the top notes burst forth with a citrusy freshness. Neroli, orange, and bergamot mingle with the powdery sweetness of heliotrope. There's a hint of warmth from cinnamon, adding a spicy allure that complements the floral bouquet.

Moving deeper into the heart of the fragrance, you detect the intoxicating blend of carnation, violet, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, patchouli, orris, and opoponax. Each note unfolds gracefully, like the layers of fabric in Poiret's designs, revealing a complex tapestry of floral nuances underscored by earthy and resinous tones.

As the scent settles on your skin, the base notes emerge, leaving a lingering impression of sophistication and sensuality. Myrrh and incense evoke the mystical ambiance of the salon, while vanilla and benzoin impart a creamy sweetness that balances the spicy and floral elements. Sandalwood and ambergris add depth and warmth, while musk and oakmoss provide a soft, velvety finish.

Throughout your visit, you hear the soft murmur of conversation and the rustle of luxurious fabrics being draped and adjusted. The tinkling of delicate jewelry and the occasional sound of a door opening and closing create a sense of exclusivity and refinement.

In the midst of this sensory symphony, you taste the essence of an era defined by elegance and daring creativity. Chez Poiret by Rosine encapsulates the spirit of Paul Poiret's vision—a perfume that not only complements his avant-garde fashion but also transports you to a world where every scent, sight, and sensation is an invitation to embrace beauty and luxury.

Bottles:

Chez Poiret's parfum was not just a fragrance but a masterpiece of artistry and luxury, presented in an exquisite crystal demilune shaped bottle. This unique vessel was adorned with a semi-spheric glass stopper resembling a jewel, available in either emerald green or ruby red. The stopper was intricately molded with four lines, around which baudruchage cording was elegantly wound, descending to seal the bottle with four knotted tassels that cascaded over its curves. At its center, a round metallic gold foil label proudly displayed the iconic Rosine "R" logo, marking it as a creation of exceptional refinement.

Housed within a hatbox-shaped box, the presentation of Chez Poiret was as lavish as its contents. The box was covered in floral-printed cotton fabric dating back to the 18th century, sourced directly from Paul Poiret's personal collection of antique textiles. Originally, this fabric adorned the packaging of bottles featuring the rare red glass stopper, which were likely reserved exclusively for Poiret's couture clients. The baudruchage cords on these editions terminated in decorative tassels, enhancing the overall opulence of the presentation. A round, gilded paper label graced the belly of each bottle, further emphasizing its exclusivity and luxury.

As demand outstripped the available antique fabric, Poiret ingeniously reproduced the pattern in paper, ensuring continuity in the presentation of Chez Poiret. Subsequent editions of the fragrance featured the green glass stopper, making the early red-stoppered bottles exceptionally rare and sought after by collectors today.

Harper's Bazaar, Volume 56, 1921:

"Poiret continues to put out delicious fragrances; one of his latest, “Chez Poiret. Rosine,” is inimitably bottled in a half sphere with an emerald glass stopper and "Nuit de Chine," luxurious and oriental.."

In the pages of Harper's Bazaar from 1921, Chez Poiret by Rosine was celebrated as a fragrance of unparalleled allure and sophistication. Described as "inimitably bottled in a half sphere with an emerald glass stopper," it exemplified Poiret's commitment to luxury and artistry. Alongside other perfumes like "Nuit de Chine," noted for its luxurious oriental character, Chez Poiret stood as a testament to the enduring legacy of Paul Poiret in the realms of fashion and fragrance alike.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Chez Poiret by Rosine continued to captivate perfume enthusiasts well into the late 1920s, as evidenced by its inclusion in the Official Journal of the Provisional Government of Mexico in 1929 alongside a distinguished lineup of other Rosine fragrances. This listing attests to the enduring popularity and availability of Chez Poiret among the discerning clientele of its time.

The perfume was part of a prestigious collection that reflected Rosine's commitment to artistry and luxury in fragrance. Names like Ambre de Venise, Nuit de Chine, and Jasmin de la Riviera adorned the pages alongside Chez Poiret, each promising a unique olfactory experience crafted with meticulous attention to detail.

Despite its continued success, Chez Poiret eventually faced discontinuation in 1930, marking the end of an era for this iconic scent. The remaining stock was liquidated at drastically reduced prices, signaling the closure of a chapter in perfume history.

Today, collectors and enthusiasts occasionally encounter bottles of Chez Poiret on the market, though they are prized possessions due to their rarity and historical significance. Early editions featuring the red glass stopper and fabric-covered boxes are particularly coveted, often commanding higher prices than their green stoppered counterparts. This scarcity adds to their allure, making any discovery a cherished find for perfume aficionados and collectors alike.

For those with a passion for vintage perfumery and a desire to connect with the elegance and sophistication of early 20th-century Parisian couture, acquiring a bottle of Chez Poiret offers a glimpse into a bygone era of luxury and refinement. Its association with Paul Poiret's visionary fashion house and the esteemed Rosine perfumery ensures its place as a coveted piece of olfactory history, worthy of preservation and admiration.