Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Pierrot by Rosine c1914

The launch of Pierrot by Rosine in 1914 occurred during a period rich with cultural and artistic influences that would have made the name "Pierrot" particularly appealing for a perfume. This was the early 20th century, a time of artistic experimentation and a resurgence of interest in historical and theatrical themes.

Pierrot is a quintessential character from the commedia dell'arte tradition, a theatrical form that originated in Italy in the 16th century and spread throughout Europe, particularly influencing French culture. Pierrot is known for his distinct costume featuring a black cap and a white collar, which became iconic symbols associated with melancholy and romanticism in later artistic interpretations.

In the early 20th century, there was a nostalgic fascination with the aesthetics of the past, including the commedia dell'arte characters like Pierrot. This fascination intersected with broader artistic movements such as Symbolism and Art Nouveau, where themes of romanticism, emotion, and fantasy were celebrated. The name "Pierrot" evokes a sense of whimsy, melancholy, and theatricality, which resonated deeply with the artistic sensibilities of the time.

The perfume's launch with the name "Pierrot" not only paid homage to this beloved character but also tapped into the cultural zeitgeist of the era. Perfume, as a medium, often draws inspiration from art, literature, and theatrical traditions to evoke specific emotions and narratives through scent. By associating with Pierrot, Rosine's perfume aimed to capture the essence of nostalgia, romance, and theatrical allure that the character embodied.

Furthermore, the inclusion of the song "Au clair de la lune," dedicated to Lully, on the starry black presentation box adds another layer of cultural richness. Jean-Baptiste Lully was a prominent French composer of the Baroque era, known for his contributions to opera and ballet. The song "Au clair de la lune" is a folk tune associated with simplicity and charm, echoing the themes of artistry and nostalgia that permeated the perfume's launch.

In summary, the launch of Pierrot by Rosine in 1914 was not just a fragrance debut but a cultural statement that resonated with the artistic and romantic ideals of the early 20th century. By drawing inspiration from the commedia dell'arte character Pierrot and incorporating elements like Lully's song, the perfume connected deeply with the nostalgia, fantasy, and artistic spirit of its time.
Clair de Lune,
".....and its perfume mingles with the moonlight,
.......In the calm, sad and beautiful moonlight,
Who makes the birds dream in the trees
And sob with ecstasy the jets of water,
The tall, slender fountains among the marbles." - Paul Verlaine
The excerpt provided is from "Clair de Lune," a poem by Paul Verlaine, a prominent figure in French Symbolist poetry. Published in his collection "Fêtes galantes" in 1869, the poem exemplifies the Symbolist movement's approach to evoking emotions through vivid imagery and sensory experiences.

Verlaine begins by intertwining the senses of smell and sight, suggesting a perfume that blends with moonlight. This metaphorical blend sets a romantic and evocative tone, hinting at an ethereal and sensory-rich atmosphere.

The poem then describes the moonlight itself as "calm, sad and beautiful," attributing complex emotions to the natural phenomenon. This characteristic of Symbolist poetry, where natural elements take on human qualities, enhances the poem's emotional depth and dreamlike quality.

Further personifying the moonlight, Verlaine portrays it as influencing the behavior of birds and the emotional state of fountains. The moonlight makes birds dream in trees, adding to the surreal and enchanted aura of the scene. The fountains, described as sobbing with ecstasy, reflect the heightened emotions and sensory experience the moonlight evokes.

Verlaine concludes with a visual image of "tall, slender fountains among the marbles," enhancing the poem's aesthetic appeal and emphasizing the contrast between the delicate, ethereal moonlight and the solid, timeless marble.

In summary, Verlaine's "Clair de Lune" is a masterful example of Symbolist poetry, using rich imagery and personification to create a poignant, dreamlike atmosphere. It explores the emotional and sensory effects of moonlight, intertwining natural elements with human emotions to evoke a complex and enchanting experience for the reader.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh hesperidic woody fragrance for women. "Pierrot, Fresh and entrancing."
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, basil, apple blossom
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, geranium, lemon verbena
  • Base notes: patchouli, cedar, ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, cedar, musk


Scent Profile:



Imagine yourself stepping onto the stage of a commedia dell'arte performance as you experience the top notes of "Pierrot, Fresh and Entrancing." The bergamot dazzles with its lively citrusy brightness, much like Pierrot's spirited entrance onto the scene. Its zestiness reflects the vibrant colors of Pierrot's costume and the mischievous twinkle in his eye. Lemon and mandarin join in, adding layers of freshness that mimic Pierrot's whimsical charm and the sunny disposition he portrays. Apple blossom delicately weaves its floral sweetness, reminiscent of Pierrot's fleeting moments of innocence and youthful exuberance amidst the theatrical antics. Basil lends an herbal warmth, evoking Pierrot's comforting presence and adding depth to the playful opening act.

In the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a delicate bouquet that speaks to Pierrot's romantic inclinations and tender emotions. Jasmine takes center stage, unfolding like the delicate emotions Pierrot hides behind his mask. Rose and lily of the valley add layers of floral sweetness, embodying Pierrot's gentle soul and the purity of his affections. Orris, with its powdery elegance, enhances the composition, symbolizing the ethereal beauty of Pierrot's dreams and aspirations. Geranium and lemon verbena provide a fresh green note, echoing Pierrot's natural grace amidst the elaborate theatrics.

As you delve into the heart of "Pierrot, Fresh and Entrancing," you encounter a delicate bouquet that resonates with Pierrot's romantic inclinations and tender emotions. Jasmine takes center stage, its floral notes unfolding like the delicate emotions Pierrot hides behind his mask. Rose and lily of the valley contribute their floral sweetness, embodying Pierrot's gentle soul and the purity of his affections. Orris, with its powdery elegance, adds a melancholic touch, symbolizing the ethereal beauty of Pierrot's dreams tinged with longing and introspection. The orris notes evoke the fragility and ephemeral nature of Pierrot's romantic ideals, capturing a sense of wistfulness and nostalgia that defines his character.

Moving to the base notes, deeper facets of Pierrot's persona emerge. Patchouli grounds the composition with its earthy richness, mirroring the melancholic depth that underlies Pierrot's comedic facade. Sandalwood adds a woody resonance, embodying the enduring strength and stoicism that Pierrot must maintain amidst life's whimsy and uncertainties. Ambergris lends a soft, sensual warmth that hints at Pierrot's yearning for tenderness and comfort in a world filled with theatrical illusions. Vetiver, oakmoss, and musk provide a subtle melancholic undertone, suggesting the complexities and vulnerabilities hidden beneath Pierrot's playful exterior, leaving a lingering impression of depth and introspection.

In essence, "Pierrot, Fresh and Entrancing" is not merely a fragrance but a narrative journey through Pierrot's world in commedia dell'arte. Each note, from the lively citrusy top to the melancholic floral heart and earthy, introspective base, captures a facet of Pierrot's multifaceted personality—his whimsical charm, his romantic yearnings, and the melancholic depth that defines his existence.


Pan, 1920:
"If Paul Poiret of Paris prepared a perfectly priceless perfume, what is the appellation of the perfectly priceless perfume that Paul Poiret of Paris prepared ? (In case you don't know, the answer " PIERROT.")"

Pan, 1920:
"Still feeling in need of comfort, I went to buy some scent, for a really good perfume, as you know, acts like a balm to the soul, a pick me up to jaded nerves, and is truly worth a guinea a drop, and if you are anything like me, you will not be content to run one special perfume for any length of time, but demand a different scent for every day, for every mood, for every frock, and in Poiret's Rosine creations you can satisfy every need. The bottles are quaintly devised - the scents adorably named. 
I tried to decide between "Forbidden Fruit" (the bottle shaped to resemble a golden apple) and smelling like all the orchards in Kent, and slender, gold-flecked exquisitely hand-painted with birds and fishes, containing a spray like the scented mist that clothes that newly awakened dawn; but I eventually carried off "Pierrot," a dainty conceit of frosted glass, with a black stopper, and an impudent-looking Toby-frill round its neck, and a perfume that suggested dimity and apple blossom and a pure and blameless life (so appropriate, you know). 
I loved " Borgia," a dreamy, languorous scent and, best of all, the bright little Rosine powder- boxes in their gay coats of flowered chintz." 






Bottles:


"Pierrot" by Rosine is not just a fragrance but a tribute to the whimsical world of commedia dell'arte, meticulously presented in a package that echoes the essence of its namesake character. Housed in a tall, oval bottle of frosted glass, the design itself is a nod to Pierrot's iconic persona. At the top sits an oval black glass stopper, ingeniously crafted to resemble Pierrot's distinctive cap, evoking a sense of theatricality and mystery. A delicate pleated white muslin frill encircles the neck of the bottle, reminiscent of Pierrot's traditional ruffled collar, adding a touch of elegance and nostalgia to the presentation.

The packaging further enhances the storytelling aspect of the fragrance. The presentation box is adorned with a striking contrast of black and white, mirroring Pierrot's classic attire. Stars and motifs of "au clair de la lune," a nod to the famous French folk song often associated with Pierrot's melancholic musings, embellish the box. This intricate detailing not only reflects the whimsy and charm of the commedia dell'arte but also invites the wearer to embark on a journey into Pierrot's world—a world of romance, nostalgia, and poetic melancholy.

In essence, "Pierrot" by Rosine is a fragrance that transcends mere scent, encapsulating an entire narrative through its design and presentation. It pays homage to the enduring allure of Pierrot, the beloved character of French theatrical tradition, and invites us to embrace the magic of storytelling and the power of scent to evoke emotions and memories. Each element, from the frosted glass bottle to the delicate frill and the celestial motifs on the box, harmoniously combines to create an enchanting olfactory experience rooted in history, artistry, and timeless elegance.














Fate of the Fragrance:


"Pierrot" by Rosine, despite its discontinuation likely around 1930, remains a coveted relic of perfume history, sought after for its unique design and association with the whimsical character of commedia dell'arte. The fragrance was part of a diverse lineup offered by Rosine, as evidenced by its mention in the Official Journal of the Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico in 1929, alongside other notable Rosine creations like Ambre de Venise and Jasmin de la Riviera.

The allure of "Pierrot" lies not only in its fragrance but also in its exquisite packaging, which was designed to resonate with the essence of its namesake. The tall, oval frosted glass bottle, adorned with an oval black glass stopper resembling Pierrot's cap and a delicate pleated white muslin frill evoking his iconic collar, speaks to the attention to detail and artistic craftsmanship of its time. The presentation box, adorned with stars and motifs of "au clair de la lune," further enhances the perfume's romantic and nostalgic appeal.

Today, finding a complete set of "Pierrot" with its original muslin frill and presentation box is a rarity. When such a complete ensemble appears for sale, collectors and enthusiasts recognize its historical and aesthetic value, leading to a considerable elevation in price. This rarity underscores the perfume's status not just as a fragrance but as a piece of art and history, connecting us to a bygone era of elegance, theatricality, and the enduring allure of Pierrot in both literature and perfumery.



No comments:

Post a Comment