In 1914, the year "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" was introduced by Paul Poiret, the cultural milieu in France was characterized by the waning days of the Belle Époque era. This period was marked by artistic innovation, societal shifts, and a departure from Victorian conservatism towards a more liberated, modern outlook. Paul Poiret, a visionary in haute couture, was renowned for challenging traditional fashion norms with his avant-garde designs that emphasized freedom and expression.
The name "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," translating to "The Handkerchief of Rosine," holds significance rooted in both practicality and symbolism. During the Victorian era, wearing perfume openly was often frowned upon due to conservative social norms. In response, perfumers devised "handkerchief perfumes," which allowed individuals to discreetly carry and apply fragrance by sprinkling it on their handkerchiefs rather than directly on their skin. This method circumvented societal taboos while still allowing individuals to enjoy the scents they desired.
Paul Poiret's choice of "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" as a name for his perfume line is a direct homage to this Victorian innovation. By evoking the concept of handkerchief perfumes, Poiret not only pays tribute to historical perfume practices but also aligns his line with a sense of refinement and elegance reminiscent of the Belle Époque era. Each bottle of "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" was meticulously wrapped in a vibrantly colored silk handkerchief, tailored to match the mood and preferences of the buyer. This personalized touch not only enhanced the allure of the fragrance but also allowed patrons to express their individuality through their choice of scent and accompanying fabric.
Furthermore, Poiret drew inspiration from the Victorian and Edwardian fascination with the Language of Flowers, a symbolic system where specific flowers conveyed nuanced messages and emotions. By infusing his fragrances with this botanical symbolism, Poiret imbued "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" with layers of meaning and cultural depth, appealing to the romantic sensibilities of his clientele.
In summary, "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" by Rosine represents a convergence of historical homage and artistic innovation. Through its name and presentation, Poiret honors Victorian traditions of discreet perfume use while embracing the language of flowers to create a sensory experience that resonated with the sophistication and individuality of early 20th-century Parisian society.
Rosine describes the line poetically:
"Did Rosine wake up uncertain and pensive, still under the impression of confused dreams? She only admits a green handkerchief, the color of myrtle and symbol of mystery. Does she feel a secret uneasiness, some jealous torment? She adopts the orange in memory of the nasturtium. Does she feel in the mood to betray? So it will be the red, the peony. More often, I think, she chooses yellow, in other words daffodil, desire, or even better blue, the tender blue of morning glory, divine blue, the prognosis of caresses, sometimes even pink, the color of her favorite flower."
The Woman Fortnightly Magazine, 1922:
"I go out through the door of the faubourg St Honoré where the magician still presents a marvel of his multifaceted activity: "Les parfums de Rosine." I remember that when one of his first creations - Le mouchoir de Rosine - first appeared in Italy - I stood perplexed contemplating that curly handkerchief bundled up in the middle of a shop window and wondering what strange charm the Mouchoir de Rosine. Then I learned that she was hiding a vial of delicious perfume in her hands. This was followed by all the other more suggestive summers: La Coupe d'or Nuit de chine, Le Minaret, Borgia, of which you don't know whether to prefer the essence or the case which is a small work of art. An artist case that is a small work of art."
Fragrance Composition:
In Paul Poiret's 1914 fragrance collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each color variant was not merely a visual distinction but a poetic exploration of moods and emotions, inspired by the Victorian Language of Flowers.
Green:
In Paul Poiret's fragrance collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," green symbolized the myrtle flower, which traditionally conveyed love in the Victorian Language of Flowers. However, Poiret ingeniously reinterpreted this symbol to evoke an aura of mystery, encapsulating his penchant for unconventional elegance and intrigue. Myrtle, renowned for its clear, fresh, camphoraceous, and sweet herbaceous scent reminiscent of eucalyptus, served as the olfactory cornerstone of this fragrance.
During Poiret's era, perfumers meticulously blended various essences to recreate the essence of myrtle. The fragrance composition typically included extracts of jasmine and tuberose, which added floral depth and sensuality to the perfume. Orange blossom contributed a delicate citrus-floral note, while rose provided a rich and timeless floral bouquet. Tincture of vanilla imparted a smooth sweetness, harmonizing with the herbal nuances of myrtle oil.
To ensure longevity and complexity in the perfume, Poiret's perfumers employed fixatives such as storax and civet. Storax, with its warm, balsamic aroma, served to anchor the fragrance, enhancing its depth and richness over time. Civet, a musky secretion from the civet cat, added an animalic undertone, contributing to the perfume's allure and sophistication.
By blending these ingredients harmoniously, Poiret crafted a fragrance that transcended conventional notions of floral perfumery. His reinterpretation of myrtle not only reflected his avant-garde approach to fragrance but also underscored his ability to imbue each scent in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" with a distinct personality and narrative. The result was a perfume that captured the essence of mystery—a testament to Poiret's artistic vision and his commitment to pushing the boundaries of olfactory artistry during the Belle Époque era.
Yellow:
Paul Poiret's "yellow" perfume, symbolizing the daffodil or narcissus, epitomized a rich and opulent floral composition with subtle green undertones. During Poiret's era, perfumes of this nature were meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxurious indulgence and sophistication.
To achieve the desired fragrance profile, Poiret's perfumers employed a blend of key ingredients. Jonquil extract, derived from the Narcissus jonquilla species, contributed its distinct floral character, while tuberose extract added depth with its creamy and intense floral notes. Vanilla tincture imparted a smooth sweetness, complemented by storax tincture which provided a warm and balsamic undertone.
A crucial element in recreating the narcissus scent was the use of synthetic narcissus aromachemicals, often refined and standardized by chemists like Verley during that period. These synthetic components were crucial in capturing the essence of narcissus, ensuring consistency and depth in the fragrance.
To further enrich the perfume, Poiret's perfumers integrated orange blossom and jasmine absolutes. Orange blossom added a fresh, citrusy floral aspect, while jasmine imbued the composition with its sensual and exotic floral notes, enhancing the overall complexity and allure of the fragrance.
In some formulations, additional botanical extracts and essences might have been included to refine the scent profile. Small amounts of orris, known for its powdery and slightly woody aroma, along with civet, cassie (acacia farnesiana), and rose essences, could have been employed to add subtle nuances and depth to the perfume, creating a multi-layered olfactory experience.
Ultimately, Poiret's "yellow" perfume, inspired by the daffodil or narcissus, represented a harmonious blend of natural extracts and synthetic compounds, meticulously crafted to embody the richness, elegance, and complexity characteristic of early 20th-century French perfumery.
Red:
In Paul Poiret's visionary perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each color and fragrance was a deliberate narrative crafted to resonate with emotions and symbolism, drawing inspiration from the Victorian Language of Flowers. The hue red, representing the peony, traditionally associated with anger in Victorian symbolism, was reimagined by Poiret to evoke the complex sentiment of betrayal. Peonies, known for their diverse fragrant profiles ranging from sweet rose-like scents to hints of water lilies and citrus zest, formed the aromatic foundation of this particular perfume.
During Poiret's era, perfumers meticulously blended an array of ingredients to capture the essence of the peony. The fragrance typically included essential oils such as geranium for its floral depth, musk and musk tincture for their animalic undertones, and styrax tincture for its warm, balsamic notes. Vanillin tincture provided a sweet, vanilla-like aroma, complementing the floral bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and violet essences.
To enhance the complexity and longevity of the perfume, Poiret's formulations might have also included terpineol, a terpene alcohol known for its pine-like aroma, and methyl anthranilate, which adds a fruity, grape-like nuance. These ingredients were expertly balanced to create a fragrance that not only captured the essence of the peony but also embodied the emotional depth and storytelling prowess that characterized Poiret's avant-garde approach to perfumery.
In essence, Poiret's interpretation of the peony in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" transcended its traditional associations, transforming it into a symbol of betrayal infused with layers of floral richness and intrigue. This fragrance exemplified Poiret's ability to blend artistry with olfactory science, creating perfumes that not only delighted the senses but also resonated with the nuanced sentiments of his time.
Blue:
In Paul Poiret's innovative perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was not just a scent, but a carefully curated narrative inspired by the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color blue, symbolizing the morning glory in traditional Victorian symbolism, traditionally conveyed coquetry—suggestive of flirtation and playful charm. However, Poiret boldly reinterpreted this symbol to evoke a mood of anticipation, capturing a sense of eager expectation and anticipation for what lies ahead.
The fragrance composition of Poiret's interpretation of morning glory was meticulously crafted to embody this sense of anticipation. Morning glories are known for their delicate, slightly sweet scent with a subtle hint of anise-like aroma. To recreate this fragrance in Poiret's time, perfumers turned to the burgeoning field of synthetic chemistry. They utilized a combination of chemical compounds such as benzo dihydropyrone, which offers a warm, sweet scent reminiscent of coumarin, known for its hay-like aroma. Dimethyl hydroquinone added a touch of freshness, while methyl anisate contributed a soft, aromatic note akin to anise.
These synthetic components were carefully blended to mirror the natural fragrance of morning glory, ensuring a harmonious balance of floral sweetness and herbal freshness. Poiret's choice to use these modern chemical compounds not only showcased his avant-garde approach to perfumery but also exemplified his ability to blend traditional floral symbolism with cutting-edge olfactory science.
Thus, Poiret's "Blue" perfume in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" encapsulated more than just a scent—it embodied a narrative of anticipation and possibility, crafted with precision and artistry to resonate with the evolving tastes and sensibilities of early 20th-century Parisian society.
Pink:
In Paul Poiret's visionary perfume collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was a meticulous narrative woven around the evocative symbolism of the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color pink, symbolizing the rose, traditionally epitomized love in Victorian society. However, Poiret diverged from this tradition by assigning the rose a new symbolic role: that of consent—a sophisticated expression of willing acceptance.
Poiret's pursuit of capturing the essence of the rose involved employing the finest ingredients available. He would have integrated precious rose absolutes extracted from pomades meticulously crafted from roses cultivated in Grasse, renowned for producing some of the world's most exquisite floral essences. These absolutes formed the heart of the fragrance, imparting rich, multifaceted floral notes characteristic of the queen of flowers.
To enrich and deepen the complexity of the rose composition, Poiret's perfumers incorporated tuberose and cassie (acacia farnesiana) extracts. Tuberose, with its creamy and intensely floral aroma, added a sensual depth and opulence to the bouquet. Cassie, known for its warm and honeyed floral scent, contributed a nuanced sweetness that complemented the rich floral notes of the rose and tuberose.
Fixatives were essential in ensuring the longevity and fullness of the fragrance. Civet, a musky secretion from the civet cat, enhanced the perfume with its animalic undertones, adding depth and intrigue. Patchouli infused the blend with an earthy richness, while ambergris provided a subtle marine muskiness, harmonizing the composition with a touch of sophistication.
In the top notes of the perfume, Poiret might have included synthetic essence linalool to enhance freshness and brightness, alongside a minuscule amount of aniline dye for the rosy color, enhancing the visual appeal of the olfactory experience.
Poiret's reinterpretation of the rose as a symbol of consent in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" exemplified his mastery of perfumery as an art form. By infusing each fragrance with layers of symbolism and emotion, Poiret not only created scents that captivated the senses but also offered his clientele a profound exploration of human sentiments and cultural ideals, encapsulated within each exquisitely crafted perfume bottle.
Orange:
In Paul Poiret's revolutionary perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was a testament to his visionary approach to scent and storytelling, intricately weaving together symbolism and emotion from the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color orange, representing the nasturtium, traditionally symbolized patriotism in Victorian floral customs. However, Poiret challenged tradition by assigning the nasturtium a new role: embodying the complex emotion of jealousy—a bold reinterpretation that underscored his avant-garde sensibilities.
The fragrance profile of Poiret's nasturtium perfume was carefully crafted to capture its distinctive characteristics. Nasturtiums are known for their sweet, slightly peppery scent, and Poiret's perfumers recreated this essence using a blend of natural extracts and essences. Nasturtium infusions, derived from pomades of the flower, formed the foundation, imparting the peppery note that defined the fragrance. Anisic aldehydes added a subtle aromatic warmth, complemented by violet extract for its delicate floral nuances.
To enhance the complexity and allure of the perfume, Poiret included orange blossom extract, which contributed fresh, citrusy undertones, and acacia extract, known for its rich, honeyed facets. Jasmine extract infused the composition with a sensual and exotic floral character, while rose essence added a timeless elegance. Vanilla provided a smooth, sweet base note, while coumarin added a hint of hay-like sweetness. Tolu tincture contributed warm, balsamic undertones, and musk essence lent a subtle animalic quality, ensuring depth and longevity in the fragrance.
Poiret's reinterpretation of the nasturtium as a symbol of jealousy in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" exemplified his ability to blend tradition with innovation, creating perfumes that transcended mere scent to become evocative narratives. By infusing each fragrance with layers of symbolism and emotion, Poiret invited his clientele to explore complex human sentiments through the sensory experience of perfume, marking a significant contribution to the artistry of early 20th-century French perfumery.
Bottles:
"Le Mouchoir de Rosine" debuted as a collection of fragrances presented in six distinct color variations, each accompanied by a meticulously chosen silk handkerchief that harmonized with the essence of the scent. The handkerchief, adorned in vibrant hues, was elegantly wrapped around the bottle and secured with an ornamental "amber" ring, likely crafted from tinted celluloid rather than genuine amber. This ring was skillfully slid down the silky fabric to the bottle's stopper, ensuring its snug placement.
The clear glass bottle featured a gracefully rounded base and an elongated, slender neck, topped with a carefully crafted ground glass stopper. These elements were then delicately housed within a cylindrical cardboard box embellished with exquisite printed paper.
Each fragrance in the collection was not only associated with a specific flower but also intended to evoke a distinct emotional tone:
- Green symbolized mystery,
- Orange conveyed jealousy,
- Red embodied betrayal,
- Yellow evoked desire,
- Blue suggested anticipation,
- Rose represented consent.
This combination of olfactory artistry and visual elegance made "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" a captivating ensemble, appealing not only to the senses but also to the emotions and aesthetic sensibilities of its discerning clientele.
Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, 1919:
"There is the "Mouchoir de Rosine," for instance, consisting of a bottle enclosed in a dainty silk handkerchief secured round it by an amber ring."
photo by Musee International de la Parfumerie in Grasse.
photo by Drouot
Fate of the Fragrance:
The "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" collection met its end in 1930 when Rosine ceased production of most of its perfumes. Remaining stock was subsequently liquidated at steeply discounted prices. Today, these rare Mouchoir de Rosine bottles are a prized rarity, with their accompanying silk handkerchiefs often lost to the passage of time. When these coveted items do appear on the market, they command high prices among collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike.
