Tuesday, May 21, 2013

La Rose de Rosine by Rosine c1912

La Rose de Rosine by Rosine: launched in 1912.








Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? La Rose de Rosine was a soliflore perfume based on rose. Jasmine adds a richness to the rose. Taking typical rose perfumes of the time period into consideration, I would imagine it had a composition such as the following:
  • Top notes: cassie, rose geranium
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, tuberose, orris
  • Base notes: civet, tolu, guaiac wood, ambrette, patchouli, ambergris


Poiret commissioned his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel to create a poem for the perfume. Boutet de Monvel wrote "La Rsose de Rosine or The Rose of Rosine":
"Neither red, nor yellow, even less white. I see her rosy, all rosy, evenly rosy, tender, resplendent, so fresh and so perfect that  I only have eyes for her, flawless and pure, of a dazzling virginity. Night falls. The water fountains release their silver notes one after another. A breath skims the ground and while the sounds of sunset rise and grow, the multitude of flowers plunge in a flutter. First there is a restless confusion, a quivering of doubt. Then one by one, they bend forward and slowly their petals close again. She, the only one, remains unchanged, in luminous bloom. And there it is, a perfume ascends, the richest, the most penetrating, the most voluptuous of all perfumes. It rises, flows into the night, reaches the deep of the park. This is the true rose, the whole rose giving her all, and the double rose, for she is the rose of Rosine."


Bottles:

La Rose de Rosine's bottle and box design was designed by Paul Iribe, La Rose de Rosine embodies the emblem of Paul Poiret, the same rosy face on the brand of clothing. 

On the gilded box-setting, for the first time Poiret uses rebus as a perfume name, "La" (rose) de Rosine."

The glass perfume bottle, designed by Georges Lepape, is inspired by the shape of the pannier dress worn by the Infanta Marguerita in Velasquez's Las Meninas painting. The delicate rose motifs stenciled on the bottle were originally created for a perfume ad by Parfumerie Lubin, but was repurposed by Iribe, resulting in it becoming the symbol of the house of Poiret. The bottle also featured vertical gold enameled stripes, a wide gilded band encircling the neck and the R for Rosine logo in the center. The combination of a rose and stripe pattern was a popular motif in 18th century France and probably echoed some fabric scraps collected by Poiret.




Fate of the Fragrance:


It was still being sold in 1929 as seen in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico along with other Rosine perfumes:

Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, Chez Poiret, Chypre des Isles, Coeur en Folie, Connais Tu le Pays?, Hahna, Jasmin de la Riviera, Le Balcon, Le Bosquet d'Apollon, Le Coup d'Or, Le Fruit Defendu, La Rose de Rosine, Maharadjah, 1935, Nuit de Chine, Pierrot, Qui Es-Tu?, Sa Chambre, Sakya Mouni, Toute la Foret.."


Finally discontinued in 1930 and remaining stock was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices.

La Rose de Rosine was reformulated and relaunched in 1991 but the resurrected firm Les Parfums Rosine. It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: Tourette sur Loup violets, tagetes, ylang ylang, roses
  • Middle notes: Turkish rose attar, Bulgarian rose attar, Grasse rose attar, jasmine, iris
  • Base notes: tonka bean, benzoin, Peru balsam



"Les Parfums de Rosine created at the beginning of the century by Paul Poiret remain in our memory as exquisite creations. Marie-Hélène Rogeon today remember the first of them, "La Rose de Rosine", born in 1911."

From Les Parfums de Rosine:
"The woman who wears it is ultra feminine, and a kind of diva.
She is sensual, noble, beautiful and so refined. Her world is the boudoir and opera front seat.
La Rose de Rosine is made with the sumptuous and opulent red rose.
It belongs to the olfactory family: Floral and powdery.
The perfume was created in 1991 by François Robert.
Intense, velvety, intriguing La Rose de Rosine has a long-lasting trace.
It brings an impression of power and refinement."


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