La Rose de Rosine by Rosine c1912

During the Belle Époque, spanning roughly from the late 19th to early 20th century, Europe was a hub of cultural flourishing, marked by optimism, technological progress, and artistic innovation. This period was synonymous with opulence and luxury, epitomized by the extravagant lifestyles of the elite, who frequented fashionable capitals like Paris for the latest in haute couture and luxury goods. Transatlantic travel was a glamorous affair, with grand ocean liners offering plush accommodations and prestigious voyages connecting Europe to America and beyond.

In 1912, against this backdrop of cultural dynamism, La Rose de Rosine by Rosine was introduced. Named after Paul Poiret's daughter, Rosine, the perfume captured the essence of sophistication and refinement prized during the Belle Époque. The rose, central to its name and fragrance, symbolized love, beauty, and elegance in the Victorian language of flowers—a language richly embraced by the era's romantic sensibilities.

For women of the Belle Époque, La Rose de Rosine represented more than just a perfume; it embodied their desire for grace, femininity, and social distinction. The perfume's presentation in a lavish bottle embellished with gold enamel underscored its appeal to discerning tastes and aesthetic appreciation. American women, among other international travelers, journeyed to Paris not only for its renowned fashion houses but also to acquire prestigious scents like those from Poiret's salon.

Thus, La Rose de Rosine became a cherished accessory, symbolizing the aspirational lifestyle and cultural refinement of the Belle Époque. Its launch in 1912 coincided with a period of unparalleled elegance and artistic creativity, where every detail—from fashion to fragrance—contributed to the allure and allure of the era's sophisticated elite.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? La Rose de Rosine was a soliflore perfume based on rose. Jasmine adds a richness to the rose. Taking typical rose perfumes of the time period into consideration, I would imagine it had a composition such as the following:

• Top notes: cassie, rose geranium
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, tuberose, orris
• Base notes: civet, tolu, guaiac wood, ambrette, patchouli, ambergris

Poiret commissioned his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel to create a poem for the perfume. Boutet de Monvel wrote "La Rose de Rosine or The Rose of Rosine":

"Neither red, nor yellow, even less white. I see her rosy, all rosy, evenly rosy, tender, resplendent, so fresh and so perfect that  I only have eyes for her, flawless and pure, of a dazzling virginity. Night falls. The water fountains release their silver notes one after another. A breath skims the ground and while the sounds of sunset rise and grow, the multitude of flowers plunge in a flutter. First there is a restless confusion, a quivering of doubt. Then one by one, they bend forward and slowly their petals close again. She, the only one, remains unchanged, in luminous bloom. And there it is, a perfume ascends, the richest, the most penetrating, the most voluptuous of all perfumes. It rises, flows into the night, reaches the deep of the park. This is the true rose, the whole rose giving her all, and the double rose, for she is the rose of Rosine."

 

Scent Profile:

As you glide into Paul Poiret's salon, the opulent fragrance of freshly cut flowers greets you, their delicate petals painting the air with a symphony of scents. Your eyes dance over the 18th-century-inspired costumes, their robes de style adorned with lacy panniers cascading with silken ribbon rosettes and metallic passementerie, a perfect match to the grandeur of Parisian fashion. Amidst this tableau, a gilded bottle of La Rose de Rosine catches your eye, ensconced in an antique Louis XVI vitrine like a jewel awaiting discovery.

Unable to resist, you approach Monsieur Poiret with eager steps, still wrapped in the sumptuous folds of his creation. With a flourish, he releases the perfume from its ornate captivity, and as the stopper is delicately removed, the room seems to hold its breath in anticipation. At first inhale, the top notes of cassie and rose geranium captivate your senses—a fresh and lively opening that evokes the essence of a sunlit garden in full bloom.

Then, as Monsieur Poiret waves the bottle before you, the heart notes emerge—a luxurious bouquet of Bulgarian rose, its petals unfolding with velvety softness, intertwined with jasmine that adds a rich, heady depth. Tuberose lends its creamy floral tones, while orris root contributes a powdery elegance that enhances the overall refinement of the scent, each note intertwining like threads in a masterful tapestry.

As the perfume settles, the base notes emerge, grounding the floral symphony with their warm and earthy tones. Civet lends a touch of animalic allure, tempered by the sweetness of tolu balsam and the smoky richness of guaiac wood. Ambrette seeds add a musky depth, while patchouli and ambergris provide a lingering, sensual finish that caresses the senses like a whisper of history and elegance.

In this moment, surrounded by the artistry of Poiret's creations and the timeless allure of La Rose de Rosine, you find yourself transported to a world where fashion, fragrance, and the essence of Parisian luxury converge in a breathtaking dance of sensory delight.

Bottles:

La Rose de Rosine's bottle and box design was designed by Paul Iribe, La Rose de Rosine embodies the emblem of Paul Poiret, the same rosy face on the brand of clothing. 

In the opulent confines of Paul Poiret's salon, where every detail exudes luxury and history, La Rose de Rosine emerges as a true embodiment of elegance. Designed by Paul Iribe, the perfume's packaging and bottle reflect Poiret's meticulous eye for artistry and symbolism, echoing the lavish aesthetic of 18th-century France. The gilded box, adorned with delicate rose motifs and a rebus-style name "La Rose de Rosine," evokes a sense of mystery and sophistication, drawing parallels to Poiret's own iconic designs.

The glass perfume bottle, a masterpiece by Georges Lepape, pays homage to the silhouette of the pannier dress worn by the Infanta Marguerita in Velasquez's renowned painting, Las Meninas. Adorned with stenciled rose motifs originally created for a perfume advertisement by Parfumerie Lubin, the bottle was ingeniously repurposed by Iribe to become the enduring symbol of Poiret's house. Vertical gold enameled stripes and a wide gilded band encircle the neck, highlighting the R for Rosine logo at its center, a nod to the perfume's heritage and prestige.

The combination of roses and stripes resonates deeply with the fashion sensibilities of 18th-century France, perhaps inspired by antique fabric scraps cherished by Poiret himself. As Monsieur Poiret delicately presents the bottle, its design and craftsmanship transport you to a bygone era of courtly splendor and artistic innovation. In this moment, surrounded by Poiret's sumptuous creations and the timeless allure of La Rose de Rosine, you are immersed in a world where luxury and history converge, leaving an indelible impression of beauty and refinement.

Fate of the Fragrance:

La Rose de Rosine's enduring presence until 1929, as documented in the Official Journal of the Provisional Government of Mexico, underscores its lasting legacy in the world of perfumery. Amidst a distinguished lineup of Rosine perfumes like Ambre de Venise, Chypre des Isles, and Jasmin de la Riviera, La Rose de Rosine stood as a testament to its timeless allure and popularity. The perfume, cherished for its soliflore composition centered on the essence of rose with enriching notes of jasmine, continued to captivate enthusiasts well into the late 1920s.

As the 1930 discontinuation approached, the remaining stock of La Rose de Rosine was offered at clearance prices, marking the end of an era for this beloved fragrance. Its presence alongside a diverse range of Rosine creations reflects its significance and enduring appeal throughout its years in production. La Rose de Rosine's journey from opulent salons to global recognition and eventual closure highlights its role in shaping the perfumery landscape of its time, leaving behind a fragrant legacy cherished by connoisseurs and historians alike.

1991 Reformulation & Relaunch:

La Rose de Rosine was reformulated and relaunched in 1991 but the resurrected firm Les Parfums Rosine. It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Tourette sur Loup violets, tagetes, ylang ylang, roses
• Middle notes: Turkish rose attar, Bulgarian rose attar, Grasse rose attar, jasmine, iris
• Base notes: tonka bean, benzoin, Peru balsam

In 1991, the resurrection of La Rose de Rosine by Les Parfums Rosine heralded a new era for this iconic fragrance, now classified as a powdery floral masterpiece tailored for the modern woman. Stepping into the refined ambiance of Les Parfums Rosine's atelier, you are enveloped in the ethereal essence that defines this reborn classic.

As you uncork the bottle, the top notes transport you to the charming village of Tourette sur Loup, where the delicate violets mingle with the vibrant hues of tagetes and the exotic allure of ylang-ylang. The air is suffused with the unmistakable aroma of freshly gathered roses, their petals gently caressed by the breeze.

In the heart of the fragrance, the trio of rose attars—Turkish, Bulgarian, and Grasse—unveil their distinctive personalities, each contributing to the bouquet with its nuanced facets of floral opulence. Jasmine lends its velvety richness, while iris adds a powdery elegance that evokes images of vintage French powder rooms.

As the perfume settles into its base, a comforting warmth envelops you, courtesy of tonka bean's sweet vanilla-like aroma, benzoin's resinous depth, and the soothing embrace of Peru balsam. Together, these base notes provide a lingering trail that enhances the overall sophistication and longevity of La Rose de Rosine.

In resurrecting La Rose de Rosine, Les Parfums Rosine has not only revived a fragrance but also rekindled the spirit of timeless elegance and feminine allure. With its blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary sensibility, this powdery floral scent invites you to indulge in a sensory journey that celebrates the enduring beauty of roses in all their glory.

"Les Parfums de Rosine created at the beginning of the century by Paul Poiret remain in our memory as exquisite creations. Marie-Hélène Rogeon today remember the first of them, "La Rose de Rosine", born in 1911."

From Les Parfums de Rosine:

"The woman who wears it is ultra feminine, and a kind of diva.

She is sensual, noble, beautiful and so refined. Her world is the boudoir and opera front seat.

La Rose de Rosine is made with the sumptuous and opulent red rose.

It belongs to the olfactory family: Floral and powdery.

The perfume was created in 1991 by François Robert.

Intense, velvety, intriguing La Rose de Rosine has a long-lasting trace.

It brings an impression of power and refinement."