In the early 1920s, the world was emerging from the devastation of World War I, entering a period often dubbed the "Roaring Twenties." It was an era marked by social and cultural transformation, where post-war optimism blended with a newfound sense of liberation, particularly among women. Paris, renowned as the epicenter of art, fashion, and entertainment, epitomized this vibrant spirit. The Folies Bergère, a legendary cabaret venue in the heart of the city, epitomized this era of artistic freedom and sensuality, captivating audiences with its daring performances.
Against this backdrop, in 1922, the perfume Coeur en Folie by Rosine was launched. Its name, translating to "Heart Madness" or "Heart on Fire," encapsulates the essence of the era perfectly. "Coeur en Folie" conjures images of passion, intensity, and a touch of recklessness—a fitting homage to the lively and daring spirit of the Folies Bergère performances that inspired it. The perfume's debut at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris underscored its alignment with the cutting-edge trends and avant-garde creativity of the time.
The appeal of the name "Coeur en Folie" lies not only in its evocative nature but also in its cultural resonance. In an era where societal norms were increasingly challenged, and self-expression was celebrated, a fragrance named after such a daring spectacle as "Coeur en Folie" would have captured the imaginations of those seeking to embody the spirit of the times. It promised wearers an olfactory journey infused with passion, allure, and the thrill of embracing life's extravagances—a true reflection of the liberated attitudes prevailing in 1920s Paris. Thus, the name "Coeur en Folie" not only serves as a testament to the perfume's origins but also as a timeless symbol of the era's embrace of freedom, creativity, and unabashed joie de vivre.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was described as "pungent" so I would surmise it was a spicy floral perfume, most likely dominated by cloves. The composition might have looked a little like this based on various carnation formulas of the same time period:
- Top notes: bergamot, acacia, jonquil, neroli, rose geranium, pimento, petitgrain
- Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, orris, cinnamon, violet
- Base notes: ambergris, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, patchouli, styrax, tolu, benzoin, sandalwood, civet
As you dive into the essence of "Coeur en Folie," envision stepping into the intoxicating world of the Folies Bergère during its 1920s heyday.
The first inhalation sweeps you off your feet with the vibrant zest of bergamot. It's as if you've just entered the grand hall of the Folies Bergère, bathed in the warm glow of chandeliers and the eager chatter of the audience. The citrusy freshness sets the stage for an evening filled with anticipation and excitement. Soon, a delicate sweetness wafts through the air, reminiscent of acacia blossoms in bloom. It adds a touch of elegance to the atmosphere, much like the intricate costumes adorned with silk and lace, worn by dancers poised to dazzle under the spotlight.
A heady floral bouquet unfolds next, evoking the intoxicating scent of jonquil. Its narcotic allure mirrors the mesmerizing performances that unfold before your eyes—dancers twirling in a whirlwind of color and grace, their movements synchronized to the heartbeat of the music. The bitter-sweetness of neroli follows, like a whispered promise of romance amidst the glamour. It fills the air with a rich floral depth, akin to the lush bouquets that adorn the cabaret tables, their vibrant hues a testament to the passion and opulence of the era.
Rose geranium's subtle herbal warmth emerges, adding a hint of nostalgia and intimacy. It echoes the quiet moments backstage, where performers gather amidst the scent of roses, sharing laughter and camaraderie before returning to the stage, renewed and ready to captivate once more. Suddenly, a spicy kick of pimento ignites the senses. Its pungent aroma injects an exhilarating energy into the air, akin to the pulsating rhythms of the music that reverberate through the hall, urging patrons to join in the rhythm of the night.
Finally, petitgrain brings a grounding touch of woody citrus, harmonizing the composition with a sense of timeless sophistication. It embodies the enduring allure of the Folies Bergère, where innovation and tradition meet in a symphony of artistry and spectacle.
"Coeur en Folie" is more than just a perfume—it's a sensory journey through the vibrant world of the Folies Bergère, where every note and nuance captures the essence of 1920s Parisian allure. It invites you to embrace the passion, glamour, and creative fervor of an era that continues to inspire and captivate.
Bottles:
The allure of "Coeur en Folie" extends beyond its captivating fragrance to the exquisite design of its bottle, a ruby red crystal masterpiece shaped in the likeness of a human heart. This choice of design resonates deeply with the essence of the perfume itself, which translates to "Heart Madness" or "Heart on Fire" in French. The heart, universally recognized as a symbol of love, passion, and emotional intensity, perfectly complements the lively and daring spirit of the Folies Bergère that inspired the perfume.
Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the bottle features a stopper fashioned as a pair of delicate frosted crystal wings, symbolizing the flight of love and desire. This whimsical yet elegant design element adds a touch of fantasy and romance, mirroring the theatrical and enchanting atmosphere of the cabaret where fantasies were brought to life on stage.
The choice of ruby red crystal enhances the allure of the bottle, evoking images of richness and opulence reminiscent of the luxurious fabrics and decadent costumes worn by performers at the Folies Bergère. The deep red hue also suggests passion and intensity, echoing the emotional depth and sensory experience promised by the fragrance itself.
Created by the esteemed artisans, Depinoix and Lefebure, who were renowned for their craftsmanship in designing Rosine's perfume bottles, the "Coeur en Folie" bottle stands as a testament to their skill and creativity. Available in two sizes, each dimension carefully considered to showcase the heart-shaped design in its full splendor, the bottle not only houses the perfume but also becomes a cherished objet d'art—a visual and tactile expression of the perfume's essence.
The "Coeur en Folie" perfume bottle was crafted with meticulous detail and offered in two distinct sizes, each contributing to its allure and charm. The smaller size stood at 1 3/5 inches tall and measured 2.75 inches across at the widest part of the heart-shaped vessel. This compact version likely appealed to those seeking a subtle yet impactful addition to their vanity, its petite dimensions making it an elegant statement piece.
In contrast, the larger size of the bottle stood at 2.5 inches tall with an almost equal width of 2.5 inches across its heart-shaped body. This size not only provided a more substantial presence but also accentuated the intricacies of the ruby red crystal design and frosted crystal wings stopper. It would have appealed to collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering a tangible representation of the perfume's luxurious allure and artistic craftsmanship.
Both sizes of the "Coeur en Folie" bottle encapsulated the essence of the perfume itself—symbolic of passion, romance, and the vibrant spirit of the Folies Bergère. Whether displayed as a decorative piece or cherished for its contents, these bottles were not just containers but exquisite works of art that enhanced the olfactory experience and celebrated the extravagant glamour of 1920s Parisian culture.
In essence, the design of the "Coeur en Folie" bottle is a seamless fusion of artistry and symbolism, capturing the essence of the perfume and the era it embodies. It invites admiration, evokes emotions, and serves as a tangible representation of the passionate and extravagant spirit of the 1920s Parisian cabaret scene.
Honolulu Star Bulletin, 1925:
Coeur en Folie, folly of the heart, is the scent of fascinating mystery from Paul Poiret. This is put up in a whimsical heart-shaped flask."
"Coeur en Folie" was not only available in its luxurious ruby red crystal bottle but also offered in a more affordable option housed in a standard omnibus flacon, a design commonly used for other Rosine fragrances. Made of clear crystal and featuring a green glass button stopper, this version provided accessibility without compromising on the essence of the fragrance.
Standing at 3.75 inches tall, the clear crystal bottle maintained an elegant simplicity that allowed the perfume's vibrant hue to shine through. The green glass stopper added a touch of color and contrast, enhancing the overall presentation with a subtle yet distinctive detail. Despite its more economical design, this bottle still exuded the charm and allure intrinsic to "Coeur en Folie," catering to a broader audience who valued both affordability and quality.
This omnibus flacon was identical to those used on other Rosine fragrances, showcasing continuity in branding and design across the collection. Produced by French glass manufacturer Lefebure, these bottles exemplified craftsmanship and attention to detail, ensuring that each vessel not only housed the perfume securely but also complemented its luxurious essence.
In offering multiple bottle options, from the opulent ruby red crystal to the more accessible clear crystal with green glass stopper, "Coeur en Folie" by Rosine embraced diversity in its presentation while maintaining the integrity and allure of its evocative fragrance. This approach allowed the perfume to appeal to a wide range of patrons, each discovering and experiencing the essence of 1920s Parisian sophistication in their own way.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Coeur en Folie" by Rosine, despite its eventual discontinuation, continued to be available as late as 1929, as evidenced by its listing alongside other Rosine perfumes in the Official Journal of the Provisional Government of Mexico. This inclusion among prestigious names such as Ambre de Venise, Chypre des Isles, and Jasmin de la Riviera underscores its popularity and enduring appeal during its active production years.
The perfume's presence in such esteemed company speaks to its significance within the Rosine fragrance lineup, characterized by a diverse array of scents ranging from the exotic and opulent to the whimsical and romantic. Each perfume, including "Coeur en Folie," contributed to Rosine's reputation for craftsmanship and innovation in the perfume industry of the time.
Despite the specific date of its discontinuation remaining unknown, the fact that "Coeur en Folie" was still being sold in 1929 reflects its lasting impact and ability to resonate with patrons who appreciated its evocative blend and the spirit of the era it embodied. As with many vintage perfumes, its legacy lives on in memories, anecdotes, and the occasional discovery of vintage bottles that evoke nostalgia for a bygone era of glamour and allure.
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