Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Aladin by Rosine c1919

The launch of the perfume Aladin in 1919 occurred during a time of cultural fascination with exoticism and orientalism in Western Europe, particularly influenced by the tales of The Thousand and One Nights. This period also coincided with the legacy of medieval Persia's rich artistic and literary traditions, which captivated the imagination of artists and designers alike. Paul Poiret, known for his avant-garde fashion and flair for theatricality, embraced this aesthetic fervor, often styling himself as the "Pasha of Paris," blending elements of Eastern and Western styles in his creations.

Naming a perfume Aladin in this context would undoubtedly capitalize on the romanticized allure of the East that permeated European artistic circles at the time. The name Aladin evokes the enchanting world of the Arabian Nights, conjuring images of magic, opulence, and mysterious lands. It suggests a fragrance that transports the wearer to a realm of fantasy and adventure, where the air is redolent with exotic spices, incense, and the intoxicating allure of oriental gardens.

For consumers in the early 20th century, purchasing a perfume named Aladin would have meant acquiring not just a scent, but also a piece of this fantastical narrative woven through literature and art. It promised to imbue the wearer with a sense of the exotic and the magical, aligning perfectly with the prevailing taste for escapism and luxury. In essence, Aladin by Rosine, launched in 1919, embodied the allure of an oriental fantasy, encapsulating the spirit of its namesake and appealing to the romantic and adventurous sensibilities of its time.

Post-War Escapism:


The First World War had just ended in November 1918 with the signing of the Armistice, and Europe was grappling with the aftermath of one of the deadliest conflicts in history. The war had brought immense suffering, loss of life, and upheaval to millions of people, leaving behind a landscape of physical destruction and emotional scars.

In the wake of such devastation, there was a palpable desire among many to escape the harsh realities of post-war existence. This era saw a pronounced trend towards seeking fantasy, exoticism, and nostalgia as a form of solace and distraction from the trauma of war. The popularity of Orientalist themes, such as those found in The Thousand and One Nights, reflected a broader cultural yearning for escapism and a return to more romanticized, pre-war ideals.

For individuals weary from years of conflict and deprivation, products like Aladin perfume offered more than just a fragrance; they promised a temporary retreat into a world of imagination and luxury. The allure of exotic scents and fantastical narratives provided a means to momentarily transcend the grim realities of the recent past, offering consumers a sensory experience that transported them to distant and enchanting realms.

Thus, while the backdrop of the First World War remained fresh in people's minds, there was a simultaneous craving for escapism and fantasy. Aladin perfume, with its association with a beloved character from Oriental folklore and its opulent presentation, tapped into this cultural zeitgeist, offering a fragrant journey into a world where dreams could briefly take precedence over the harshness of reality.

The Beginning:


The trademarking of the name Aladin for perfume in 1919 marked a significant moment in the realm of fragrance, intertwining the exotic allure of the Orient with the artistic vision of Paul Poiret, the influential couturier known as the "Pasha of Paris." During this period, Europe was captivated by the romanticism of Oriental tales, especially those found in The Thousand and One Nights, which offered a rich tapestry of magic, adventure, and opulence. Poiret, a trailblazer in fashion who often drew inspiration from diverse cultural sources, seized upon this fascination to create an olfactory experience that mirrored the enchanting world of Aladdin.

The launch of Aladin perfume was not just a mere introduction of a scent, but a grand spectacle befitting Poiret's theatrical approach to design. The perfume's presentation was a lavish affair, reflecting Poiret's penchant for extravagance and his desire to transport consumers into a realm of fantasy. The box itself was adorned with imagery evocative of The Thousand and One Nights, featuring a depiction of Poiret as a sultan, crafted by the talented artist Mario Simon. This portrayal underscored the perfume's association with the mystical and luxurious world of the Orient, where tales of genies, magic lamps, and enchanted gardens captured the imagination.

Subtitled "the perfume of enchantment," Aladin promised wearers an olfactory journey into a realm where dreams and reality blurred, where the air was suffused with the heady aromas of exotic spices, precious resins, and the delicate blooms of oriental gardens. The name Aladin itself carried profound connotations of wonder and allure, summoning visions of a young hero whose adventures spanned realms of both material wealth and spiritual enlightenment. By aligning the fragrance with this legendary figure, Poiret and his collaborators imbued the perfume with a narrative power, offering consumers not just a scent, but a transformative experience that resonated deeply with the cultural currents of the time.

In essence, Aladin by Rosine, launched under Poiret's guidance in 1919, represented a convergence of artistic vision and commercial appeal. It capitalized on the era's fascination with the exotic Orient, while also embodying Poiret's own imaginative flair and his ability to craft narratives through fashion and fragrance. The perfume, with its sumptuous presentation and evocative subtitle, encapsulated the spirit of enchantment and escapism that defined the early 20th century, offering consumers a luxurious gateway into a world of fantasy and allure.

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was classified as a sweet oriental fragrance for women. It was described as having "all the allure of grand Moorish palaces."
  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus, bergamot, neroli
  • Middle notes: incense, rose, jasmine, spices, carnation, orange blossom
  • Base notes: benzoin, vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood, incense, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, labdanum, tonka bean and musk

Scent Profile:


Picture yourself wandering through a Persian garden, where each breath draws in the essence of Aladin perfume's exquisite ingredients, reminiscent of the fabled riches found in Aladdin's cave. At the outset, the top notes reveal themselves like the first rays of dawn over an ancient palace. Aldehydes sparkle like precious jewels, their effervescent allure echoing the shimmer of sunlight on ornate gold leaf. Citrus notes unfold with the tang of freshly harvested oranges and lemons, their zesty sweetness mingling with the crisp freshness of bergamot, reminiscent of the prized citrus fruits adorning the garden's trees. Neroli adds a delicate floral citrus aroma, evoking the intoxicating scent of orange blossoms, cherished for their purity and grace.

As you delve deeper into this olfactory journey, the heart notes of Aladin perfume transport you to a sacred temple within the palace walls. Incense swirls in the air, carrying the solemnity of ancient rituals and the smoky richness of storied histories. Roses bloom in profusion, their velvety petals exuding a fragrance both delicate and robust, evoking the decadent tapestries adorning palace chambers. Jasmine lends its heady floral bouquet, its exotic sweetness reminiscent of moonlit evenings spent in quiet contemplation. Spices whisper tales of distant lands, their aromatic warmth a testament to the trade routes that brought them to these opulent gardens. Carnation adds a spicy floral note, while orange blossom weaves a honeyed veil of perfumed elegance, embodying the allure of luxurious courtly pleasures.

Finally, the base notes of Aladin perfume envelop you in the sumptuous depths of Aladdin's treasure trove. Benzoin exudes a rich, amber-like sweetness, its resinous warmth reminiscent of aged wood and polished gold. Vanilla adds a creamy, indulgent layer, like the velvety softness of silk robes worn by royalty. Ambergris whispers of ocean voyages and distant shores, its salty-sweet aroma evoking the treasures of the sea. Sandalwood imparts a smooth, woody richness, like the carved pillars and ornate furniture found within the palace's inner chambers. Incense returns in a grounding embrace, its smoky tendrils mingling with the earthy depth of patchouli and vetiver, conjuring visions of ancient artifacts and storied antiques. Oakmoss lends a touch of green freshness, reminiscent of moss-covered treasures hidden within palace gardens, while labdanum adds a resinous, balsamic richness that speaks of timeless luxury. Tonka bean offers a final flourish of almond-like sweetness, while musk wraps the fragrance in a soft, animalic embrace, embodying the allure of the mysterious and exotic.

In essence, Aladin perfume unfolds as a journey through a grand Persian palace adorned with treasures from distant lands and ancient tales. Each ingredient, from the sparkling top notes to the richly layered heart and luxurious base, contributes to its complex and captivating allure, evoking the opulence, mystique, and timeless beauty of a bygone era.


Bottles:


Aladin perfume, launched with meticulous attention to detail in 1919 under the creative direction of Paul Poiret, was not only a fragrance but a piece of artistry encapsulated in its exquisite packaging. Housed in a frosted glass bottle shaped like a snuff bottle, its arched panels were adorned with intricately molded mythological creatures engaged in dynamic battles. The bottle's surface boasted a rusty red patina in its recesses, adding depth and antiquity to its appearance. Affixed with a brass chain looped through molded shoulders, the bottle was designed for tactile elegance, meant to be carried with a sense of ceremonial luxury. A slender, silvery paper label adorned the front, a subtle touch of refinement against the bottle's elaborate form.

The design of Aladin's bottle was a collaboration between Poiret and his friend, the perfumer-glassmaker Maurice Schaller, with production executed by esteemed glassmakers Depinoix and Lefebure et Cie. This same enchanting design was faithfully reproduced in cast silvery metal, emulating the ancient Persian metalwork aesthetic. Like its glass counterpart, the metal flask featured the distinctive rusty red patina, enhancing its antique allure. A silvery metal chain was similarly affixed for portability, replacing the paper label with molded inscriptions of "Rosine" and "Aladin" where the label would traditionally appear. The metal flask, standing approximately 3 inches tall with its stopper in place, mirrored the luxury and craftsmanship of its glass predecessor.


The stoppers for both versions of the bottle were crafted from Bakelite, intricately carved to simulate ivory or stained in shades resembling Persian turquoise or amber. Each stopper was designed with a pierced effect, allowing for the baudruchage cord to pass through a notch at the top, securing the stopper to prevent any perfume leakage during transport—a testament to the meticulous care taken in both design and functionality.

The opulence of Aladin's presentation extended beyond its exquisite bottles to its packaging, reflecting Poiret's bold and luxurious aesthetic. Designed by Mario Simon, the presentation box echoed the arched silhouette of the flacon, enveloped in paper that mimicked elaborate Persian lacquer work. The lid featured a vivid Persian miniature depicting Poiret himself in the guise of Aladdin, appropriately attired in Persian costume—a nod to the fragrance's exotic inspirations. A wide, gold-colored band encircled the lid's outer border, enhancing its regal appearance.

Inside, the box was lined with striped, multicolored West Indian fabric, meticulously chosen to replicate ancient Persian textiles, possibly drawn from Poiret's personal collection of authentic antiquities. This interior detail not only complemented the fragrance's oriental theme but also underscored the luxurious sensory experience offered by Aladin perfume. The metal flask version of the packaging retained the same sumptuous fabric lining, ensuring consistency in elegance and presentation.

In essence, Aladin perfume was a masterpiece of fragrance artistry and packaging design, marrying Paul Poiret's visionary fashion sensibilities with the allure of oriental mystique. From its intricately adorned bottles to its lavish presentation, every aspect of Aladin exuded the opulence and charm of a bygone era, inviting wearers to indulge in a sensory journey of exoticism and luxury. 

Oregon News, 1920:

"Aladin Rosine" is lettered on a Chinese sort of silver bottle with jade green colored stopper perforated so that the fragrance may perfume the room."


















Eau de Toilette:


The Eau de Toilette version of Rosine's fragrances, including Aladin, was presented in a distinctive and elegant bottle design. Crafted from clear glass, the flacon was molded into a tall, narrow, truncated pyramid shape, evoking a sense of sleek modernity while maintaining a nod to classical architectural forms. The bottle's aesthetic was further enhanced by a ground glass demi-lune (half-moon) shaped stopper, meticulously gilded with gold enamel. This luxurious detail not only added a touch of opulence but also ensured a secure and visually striking closure.

Each Eau de Toilette bottle featured a paper label that adhered to the triangular shape of the flacon, maintaining consistency across the Rosine line of fragrances. This label not only identified the specific fragrance but also complemented the geometric elegance of the bottle's design. The overall effect was one of refined simplicity and understated luxury, embodying the essence of Rosine's commitment to quality and aesthetic appeal.

This standard flacon design was chosen to harmonize with Rosine's broader collection of Eaux de Toilette, offering a cohesive presentation that aligned with the brand's reputation for both craftsmanship and artistic vision. Whether displayed on a vanity or held in hand, the clear glass pyramid-shaped bottle with its gilded stopper and triangular label conveyed a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication, inviting users to indulge in the luxurious olfactory experience within.



Fate of the Fragrance:


The Aladin fragrance, a cherished creation of its time, appears to have been discontinued around 1930. Its presence continued as late as 1929, evidenced by its inclusion in a listing within the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico alongside various other esteemed Rosine perfumes. These included Ambre de Venise, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, and many others, reflecting the breadth and popularity of the Rosine line during that era.

Today, collectors may find the bottles for Aladin more readily available compared to some other Rosine fragrances, with the metal flask version being notably more common than the frosted glass variant. Both iterations are highly sought after in the marketplace, commanding respectable prices when offered for sale. This enduring demand underscores Aladin's enduring allure and its enduring status as a treasured piece of fragrance history.

No comments:

Post a Comment