The perfume La Coupe d'Or, launched in 1910, epitomizes the elegance and cultural milieu of its time. During the early 20th century, particularly in the Belle Époque period leading up to World War I, Paris was a center of artistic and cultural innovation. This era was characterized by its lavishness, sophistication, and a burgeoning interest in luxury goods, including perfumes.
The name "La Coupe d'Or," meaning "The Golden Bowl," evokes imagery of opulence and refinement, fitting seamlessly into the zeitgeist of the early 20th century. In French culture, the use of "gold" symbolizes richness, exclusivity, and beauty. A golden bowl, in particular, suggests a vessel of preciousness and allure, metaphorically holding something of immense value—like the fragrance itself.
As for its inspiration, La Coupe d'Or would likely draw from the trends and themes of its time. Perfumes of this era often featured floral bouquets with rich, oriental undertones or powdery notes that were favored by the fashionable elite. They aimed to capture the essence of femininity and sophistication, catering to a clientele that appreciated artistry and luxury in every detail of their lives.
The appeal of La Coupe d'Or in 1910 would lie not only in its luxurious name and packaging but also in its ability to transport wearers to a world of elegance and refinement. Perfume during this period was not just a fragrance but a statement of personal style and taste. It was a means of expressing oneself and indulging in a bit of escapism into a more glamorous realm.
Therefore, La Coupe d'Or by Rosine, created by perfumer Maurice Schaller, would have been a fitting addition to the perfume market of 1910 Paris, offering a blend of luxury, artistry, and cultural resonance that appealed to the sophisticated tastes of its time.
Fashion designer Paul Poiret, known for his influential contributions to early 20th-century fashion, trademarked the name "La Coupe d'Or" as a perfume in the USA in 1924. This fragrance reportedly became a favorite of American actress Clara Kimball Young.
Paul Poiret, besides his groundbreaking designs, also ventured into the perfume industry under the brand name Parfums de Rosine, named after his daughter. La Coupe d'Or was part of his line of perfumes, reflecting his artistic sensibilities and the luxurious aesthetics of the time. The choice of name, meaning "The Golden Bowl" in French, likely aimed to evoke images of opulence and sophistication, aligning with Poiret's vision of beauty and luxury.
Clara Kimball Young, a prominent actress of the silent film era, was noted for her elegant style and refined tastes. Her endorsement of La Coupe d'Or would have added to the perfume's allure and appeal, catering to the fashionable elite who sought to embody the glamour of the era.
Thus, La Coupe d'Or by Paul Poiret's Parfums de Rosine, trademarked in 1924 and favored by Clara Kimball Young, encapsulated the essence of luxury and refinement that characterized both Poiret's fashion designs and his foray into perfumery.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a hesperidic oriental amber fragrance with a lovely accord of vanilla and red fruits. Similar to Ambre Antique by Coty. It was suggested to be worn by "the lovely golden hair blonde whose brilliance has been dimmed just a bit with the passing of years, but whose charm is more compelling than ever." La Coupe d'Or was described as "the perfume of a fruit orchard" and "intriguing as a flirtatious glance from violet eyes."
- Top notes: orange, apricot, pear, raspberry, bergamot, peach, plum, apple, red fruits
- Middle notes: green pepper, lily of the valley, carnation, tarragon, honey, rose, cinnamon, cloves, violet, jasmine, orange blossom
- Base notes: rosewood, heliotrope, sandalwood, caramel, tonka bean, vanilla, musk, ambergris, benzoin
It was described as "in the orchard - setting sun - espaliers and flowerbeds exhaling all the penetrating scents of swollen and ripe fruit under their golden robe: cracked and juicy plums, sweet pears, melting peaches, blond apricots and velvet raspberries...while the pungent flavor of green pepper enhances the sweetness of so many delicacies. Nature has filled the Coupe d'Or with its generous and delicate sweets."
Scent Profile:
Entering the lavish palace, you are immediately struck by its opulence. The dining table and sideboards are adorned with golden bowls overflowing with an array of ripened fruits, complemented by decanters holding precious libations. Vases brimming with freshly cut flowers add vibrant bursts of color against the backdrop of sumptuous furnishings draped in rich fabrics.
Approaching the first golden bowl, a symphony of citrus and orchard fruits envelops you. Oranges and bergamot provide a zesty freshness, while apricots and plums offer a velvety sweetness. Another golden bowl holds juicy raspberries, crisp apples, and ripe pears adding depth and variety, their textures and vibrant colors a feast for the eyes. Each fruit invites a taste of sun-ripened perfection, enhancing the luxurious atmosphere.
Moving deeper into the palace, a bouquet of flowers fills the air with delicate aromas. Lily of the valley and orange blossom exude ethereal fragrances, while jasmine and violet add intrigue and sensuality. Spicy notes of green pepper and tarragon intermingle with the sweetness of honey and the warmth of cinnamon and cloves. The flowers' vibrant colors and textures enrich the sensory experience, offering a visual and tactile delight.
As you settle further into the palace, the base notes unfold with a comforting embrace. Rosewood and sandalwood impart their woody richness, while heliotrope adds a powdery sweetness. Caramel, tonka bean, and vanilla provide warmth and depth, enhanced by the subtle muskiness of ambergris and benzoin. The luxurious materials and textures of the furnishings add to the sensory journey, creating a lasting impression of elegance and refinement.
In the palace adorned with golden bowls of ripened fruit, vases of fresh flowers, and infused with aromatic herbs and spices, La Coupe d'Or epitomizes a luxurious olfactory experience. Each note, from the bright citrus to the warm amber, paints a vivid picture of abundance and sophistication, capturing the essence of opulence in every inhalation.
Bottles:
The perfume bottle for La Coupe d'Or exudes elegance and sophistication in its design. Crafted by Baccarat, renowned for their exquisite glassware, the bottle is a clear glass rectangular column standing 5.25 inches tall. Its simplicity is enhanced by a satin glass stopper adorned with a gilded metal top, meticulously crafted to resemble a glass bowl overflowing with ripe fruits.
The choice of Baccarat, with its model number 394 dating back to 1919, underscores the timeless quality and craftsmanship of the bottle. The clear glass allows the golden hue of the perfume to shine through, while the rectangular shape and satin finish of the stopper add a touch of modernity and luxury. The gilded metal top not only secures the stopper but also serves as a decorative element, echoing the opulence and allure of the perfume within.
This bottle is not just a vessel for fragrance; it is a work of art that captures the essence of La Coupe d'Or—a perfume celebrated for its association with luxury and refinement. Displayed on vanity tables or dressing rooms, it stands as a testament to the beauty and sophistication of both the perfume and the era it represents.
photos from worthpoint
In contrast to other perfume bottles of its time, La Coupe d'Or stands out with its distinctive and luxurious design. While many perfume bottles of the era are tall and often feature a circular disk-shaped stopper, La Coupe d'Or's bottle takes on a more ornate and symbolic form.
The bottle itself is a clear glass rectangular column, standing at 5.25 inches tall, crafted by Baccarat with meticulous attention to detail. It is adorned with a satin glass stopper topped with gilded metal, which cleverly simulates the appearance of a glass bowl overflowing with luscious fruits. This design choice not only reflects the fragrance's name—"The Golden Bowl" in French—but also enhances its allure, suggesting opulence and abundance.
Additionally, the perfume's label contributes to its visual appeal. Shaped like a footed bowl overflowing with a motif of fruits, the label reinforces the theme of abundance and luxury that permeates La Coupe d'Or. This motif, combined with the bottle's elegant design and high-quality craftsmanship, positions La Coupe d'Or as not just a scent, but a piece of art that embodies the essence of its era.
Displayed on vanity tables or dressing rooms, La Coupe d'Or's bottle becomes a statement of sophistication and refinement, inviting admiration for its beauty and symbolism. It serves as a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of its time, capturing the imagination with its blend of elegance and sensory allure.
Fate of the Fragrance:
La Coupe d'Or, among other distinguished Rosine perfumes, maintained its presence in the market until 1929, as indicated in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico. This timeframe underscores its enduring popularity and continued appeal among fragrance aficionados.
Alongside a prestigious lineup including Ambre de Venise, Borgia, Jasmin de la Riviera, and others, La Coupe d'Or exemplified the essence of luxury and sophistication associated with Paul Poiret's Parfums de Rosine. Its inclusion in such esteemed company highlighted its status as a fragrance cherished for its opulent blend of notes and timeless allure.
However, despite its initial success, La Coupe d'Or met its eventual discontinuation in 1930. The remaining stock was then offered at significantly reduced clearance prices, marking the end of an era for this iconic fragrance. Its legacy continues to be remembered for encapsulating the elegance and refinement of its time, leaving an indelible mark in the world of perfumery.
1993 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1993, Les Parfums Rosine undertook a modern reinterpretation of La Coupe d'Or under the direction of François Robert, incorporating contemporary ingredients. The perfume was reintroduced in a redesigned bottle created by Guillaume Rogeon, marking a new chapter for this classic fragrance.
- Top notes: red berries, orange, peach, cinnamon, narcissus, mimosa
- Heart notes: jasmine, rose, lilies of the valley, orange blossom
- Base notes: musk, vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood
Scent Profile:
The revitalized La Coupe d'Or opens with a burst of fruity and spicy notes. Red berries and citrusy orange intertwine with the succulent sweetness of peach, creating a vibrant and inviting introduction. Cinnamon adds a hint of warmth and spice, complemented by the floral accents of narcissus and mimosa. Together, these top notes evoke a modern interpretation of the original's opulent and fruity essence.
Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, a bouquet of delicate florals emerges. Jasmine and rose lend their timeless elegance, their petals unfolding with a rich and intoxicating aroma. Lilies of the valley contribute a fresh and green nuance, while orange blossom adds a touch of citrusy sweetness. This floral medley embodies the romance and sophistication that characterize La Coupe d'Or, enhanced with a contemporary twist.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes provide a warm and sensual foundation. Musk envelops the senses with its soft and lingering presence, while vanilla adds a creamy sweetness. Ambergris contributes a smooth and earthy depth, complemented by the woody warmth of sandalwood. Together, these base notes create a lasting impression of refinement and sophistication, ensuring that the modern reformulation of La Coupe d'Or retains the luxurious essence that made it a beloved classic.
By 2002, however, despite its modern revitalization, La Coupe d'Or was discontinued once again. Its brief return served as a homage to its storied past while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonated with new generations of perfume enthusiasts.
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