Borgia by Rosine c1914

In 1914, when the perfume Borgia by Rosine was launched, Europe and the world were on the brink of a cataclysmic war that would soon engulf them in the form of World War I. Tensions were escalating, and the fragility of peace was palpable. Amidst this backdrop of impending conflict, society was in a state of transition. The Belle Époque was fading, giving way to a more modern era characterized by changing social norms and women's increasing independence.

The name "Borgia" for a perfume was not chosen lightly. It evokes a historical period and a family infamous for their power, intrigue, and scandal. The Borgias, particularly Lucretia Borgia, were notorious figures from Renaissance Italy. Lucretia Borgia, daughter of Pope Alexander VI, was rumored to be involved in various scandals, including alleged incest and poisoning of her enemies. The Borgia family's reputation was one of ambition, ruthlessness, and a penchant for opulence and luxury. Naming a perfume after a figure associated with scandal and poison was likely a deliberate choice to provoke curiosity and controversy.

Perfume names often draw on historical or mythological figures to evoke certain qualities or narratives. The Borgia family's reputation for using poison as a tool of power and manipulation could symbolize the allure of power itself, or the intrigue and complexity of human relationships. Perfume itself is a blend of various fragrant substances, and the name "Borgia" juxtaposes the idea of something beautiful and alluring (perfume) with something dangerous and sinister (poison). This contrast may evoke a sense of mystery and fascination, appealing to those who are intrigued by the darker aspects of human nature.

Paul Poiret, the designer behind the perfume, likely chose the name "Borgia" to evoke a sense of intrigue, seduction, and perhaps a touch of danger. Perfume names are often chosen to convey a certain allure or mystique, and associating it with a historical figure like Lucretia Borgia would certainly have captured attention. The connection between Borgia and perfume lies in their shared associations with sensuality, luxury, and a hint of the forbidden.

In 1914, women were increasingly asserting their independence and embracing new freedoms in fashion and lifestyle. The controversial and provocative name "Borgia" would have appealed to those seeking to challenge societal norms or simply to indulge in a bit of scandalous allure. The perfume's name would have resonated with women of the time who were drawn to stories of romance, intrigue, and the mysterious allure of historical figures like Lucretia Borgia.

Thus, "Borgia" by Rosine was launched into a world on the brink of war, where its name alone conjured images of historical drama, scandal, and a sense of decadence that appealed to the evolving tastes and desires of women in 1914.

 

 In 1927, the allure of "Borgia" perfume by Rosine was captured vividly in a newspaper article, highlighting its prominence and intrigue among the fragrances of its time. The article paints a picture of exclusivity and fascination surrounding "Borgia," describing it as one of Rosine's most potent scents. The choice of name, derived from Lucretia Borgia, evokes a sense of historical drama and mystery. Lucretia Borgia, known in history as an Italian noblewoman associated with allegations of poison and intrigue during the Renaissance, symbolizes a darker, more seductive aspect of femininity.

The description of "Borgia" as the hottest perfume on the shelves in 1927 suggests its popularity and perhaps even its controversial allure. The fact that it was kept separate in a corner by itself adds to its mystique, implying that it was sought after and perhaps viewed as somewhat daring or unconventional. The reference to Lucretia Borgia as an "Italian sorceress" reinforces the perfume's association with seduction and power.

In contrast, "Nuit de China," another perfume from Rosine mentioned in the article, is characterized as effective in cool air and described as younger and less potent than "Borgia." This comparison underscores the unique appeal of "Borgia" in its intensity and historical association, catering perhaps to a clientele intrigued by its boldness and the allure of its namesake.

Overall, the newspaper article from 1927 captures the essence of "Borgia" perfume as a symbol of sophistication, allure, and a hint of historical intrigue that resonated with the tastes and sensibilities of its time. Its association with Lucretia Borgia, despite her controversial history, served to enhance its appeal as a fragrance that was both powerful and provocative.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? A perfume of mystery. It was a floral woody fragrance for women. It's composition was based on scent of the geranium leaf. Taking various geranium perfume formulas of the period into consideration, the composition might have looked something like the following:

• Top notes: galbanum, cassie, rose geranium, bergamot
• Middle notes: geranium leaf, rose, jasmine, orris
• Base notes: balsam, tree mastic, storax, sandalwood, ambergris, patchouli, benzoin, vetiver, civet, musk

Advertisement in the Rosine catalog says that "one drop drives you crazy."

Poiret commissioned his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel to create a poem for the perfume. Boutet de Monvel wrote: Borgia:

"Long ago, under the reign of Pope Alexander, knights would fill the bezel of their rings with it, and one knows how Don Ottario seduced Julie, the tenderhearted. At the time of his daughter's wedding, it is said that Cardinal Rodriguez spilled plenty of dragees into the bodices of the Roman ladies, and that these innocent sweets threw the noble guests into extreme turmoil. Lastly, it is said that, his mind full of the grandest intentions, Cezar Borgia himself could not cease rolling around his fingers a gold ball filled with a little bit of the magnificent elixir. Bewitching potion, legendary perfume! No one would unveil then your mysterious origins? Were you born in Verona or in Capua, in the den of a courtesan of Venice, or at the witches' lair in Sicily? Yet, pure, priceless, your formula came down to us, your aroma still with all its eloquent power, and one knows your fearsome hold, because from you, irresistible perfume, a single drop with bring complete madness."

Scent Profile:

In Lucretia Borgia's sumptuous boudoir, amidst the whispers of court intrigue and the opulent décor, the air is heavy with the heady scent of her infamous perfumes. As I approach the shelves adorned with bottles bearing potent elixirs, I'm enveloped in a rich tapestry of aromas that tell tales of seduction and power.

The first inhalation brings forth the sharp, green freshness of galbanum, evoking the crispness of freshly cut herbs. It mingles with the delicate sweetness of cassie, creating a blend that is both herbal and floral, reminiscent of the gardens surrounding Lucretia's castle. The citrusy sparkle of bergamot dances in the background, adding a touch of brightness to the composition.

Moving deeper into the heart of the perfume, I detect the distinctive aroma of rose geranium, its rosy and slightly minty facets intertwining with the soft, powdery notes of orris. These floral accords bloom under the warmth of jasmine, lending a sensual and intoxicating allure to the fragrance. The atmosphere around me seems to shimmer with a mysterious allure, akin to the whispers of courtiers and the rustle of silk.

As the scent settles, I catch whispers of balsamic richness from tree mastic and storax, creating a velvety backdrop infused with hints of resinous warmth. Sandalwood and ambergris add a creamy and slightly animalic quality, heightening the sensuality of the perfume. Patchouli and benzoin lend a deep, earthy sweetness, while vetiver and civet contribute a touch of smokiness and musky undertones that linger in the air like a whispered promise.

In Lucretia's boudoir, where every scent tells a story, there's a sense of intrigue and temptation. The perfume, described as "one drop drives you crazy," suggests a bewitching power akin to a love potion rather than a deadly poison. Perhaps Lucretia herself concocts this elixir, not for malice but to ensnare hearts and minds. Her ladies in waiting, draped in silks and jewels, giggle softly as they dab the fragrance on their pulse points, adding to the ambiance of flirtation and allure.

Amidst the laughter of courtesans and the murmurs of suitors, the perfume of mystery unfolds, weaving a tale of seduction and power in Lucretia Borgia's world. It's a fragrance that whispers of forbidden desires and hidden secrets, capturing the essence of a woman who navigates the complexities of love and ambition with equal grace and intrigue.

St Louis Dispatch, 1934:

"I wanted to extract from the leaves of certain plants perfumes that people up to then had only sought in flowers and roots. I amused myself working with the geranium leaf, out of which I made Borgia perfume, and then I used the mastic tree and certain balsams from Provencal heaths. I asked glassmakers to make bottles I designed to contain these essences. I then had this glassware decorated by pupils in my school of decorative art, who illuminated them with flowers and charming arabesques.-Paul Poiret"

In his comments to the St. Louis Dispatch in 1934, Paul Poiret, renowned as a trailblazing fashion designer and a pioneer in the world of perfumery, reveals his innovative approach to fragrance creation. Poiret's perspective on perfume reflects his desire to redefine traditional scent profiles by exploring unconventional botanical sources. He explains his fascination with extracting perfumes from leaves of plants, a departure from the more common practice of using flowers and roots. This experimental spirit led him to focus on the geranium leaf, a choice that would later manifest in his creation of the Borgia perfume.

The mention of Borgia perfume underscores Poiret's ambition to craft scents that challenge norms and evoke distinctive olfactory experiences. By utilizing the geranium leaf, Poiret sought to capture its unique fragrance notes and translate them into a perfume that would stand out amidst more traditional floral and root-based scents of the time.

Poiret's creative process extended beyond fragrance formulation to encompass the design of bottles that would house his perfumes. He collaborated with glassmakers to produce bottles according to his own designs, emphasizing both functionality and aesthetic appeal. These bottles were further adorned by students from his school of decorative art, who embellished them with intricate floral motifs and elegant arabesques. This integration of design and craftsmanship aimed to elevate the presentation of his perfumes, transforming them into objets d'art that appealed not only to the sense of smell but also to the eye.

Overall, Poiret's approach to perfumery as articulated in his statement reflects a visionary mindset. He sought to innovate by extracting scents from unconventional botanical sources, redefine the art of perfume bottle design, and integrate artistic embellishments that enhanced the overall sensory experience. Poiret's contributions to the world of fragrance were not merely olfactory but also aesthetic, marking him as a true visionary in the realms of both fashion and perfumery during his era.

Pan, 1920:

"Still feeling in need of comfort, I went to buy some scent, for a really good perfume, as you know, acts like a balm to the soul, a pick me up to jaded nerves, and is truly worth a guinea a drop, and if you are anything like me, you will not be content to run one special perfume for any length of time, but demand a different scent for every day, for every mood, for every frock, and in Poiret's Rosine creations you can satisfy every need. The bottles are quaintly devised - the scents adorably named. 

I tried to decide between "Forbidden Fruit" (the bottle shaped to resemble a golden apple) and smelling like all the orchards in Kent, and slender, gold-flecked exquisitely hand-painted with birds and fishes, containing a spray like the scented mist that clothes that newly awakened dawn; but I eventually carried off "Pierrot," a dainty conceit of frosted glass, with a black stopper, and an impudent-looking Toby-frill round its neck, and a perfume that suggested dimity and apple blossom and a pure and blameless life) so appropriate, you know). 

I loved " Borgia," a dreamy, languorous scent and, best of all, the bright little Rosine powder- boxes in their gay coats of flowered chintz." 

The excerpt from Pan magazine in 1920 captures the essence of the allure and variety offered by Paul Poiret's Rosine perfumes, reflecting the era's fascination with fragrance as a transformative and mood-enhancing indulgence. The narrator describes perfume as a source of comfort, likening it to a balm for the soul and a remedy for jaded nerves, highlighting its perceived value as something precious and uplifting.

Poiret's approach to perfumery is portrayed as expansive and imaginative, catering to every whim and mood. The mention of Rosine creations suggests a collection designed to meet diverse needs, with each perfume encapsulating a distinct character and essence. The bottles themselves are celebrated for their quaint and charming designs, each crafted to complement the fragrance within. The description of "Forbidden Fruit," shaped like a golden apple and evoking the scent of Kent orchards, illustrates Poiret's knack for blending fantasy with sensory experience.

The narrator's choice of "Pierrot" exemplifies the playful and whimsical nature of Poiret's creations. The frosted glass bottle adorned with an impudent Toby-frill around its neck suggests a blend of innocence and mischief, complemented by a perfume that evokes images of dimity and apple blossom—a scent that speaks to purity and a serene existence.

"Borgia" is described as a dreamy and languorous scent, hinting at its seductive and mysterious allure. The association with the infamous Borgia family adds a layer of intrigue and drama, aligning with the historical and sensual narratives often woven into perfume marketing of the time.

Lastly, the mention of Rosine powder-boxes in their vibrant coats of flowered chintz reflects Poiret's attention to detail and the overall sensory experience associated with his brand. These powder-boxes, like the perfumes, are celebrated for their aesthetic charm and ability to enhance the daily rituals of grooming and self-care.

In essence, the excerpt captures the allure of Poiret's Rosine perfumes as more than mere scents—they are evocative experiences that cater to individual tastes, moods, and fantasies, making them indispensable elements of a fashionable woman's life in the early 20th century.

 

Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels ... - Page 78, 1925:

Borgia "with a single drop it makes one mad, they say, and with the green and red badge on the side of the black case, there appears a viper with a tongue of fire." Each vial of Rosine, explained Nozière, "is a work of art made ​​long to be admired.

Week end: comédie en trois actes - Page 10, 1928:

"Simon (catching her hand and kissing it): "You smell heavenly. What a strange and deep fragrance! What is it?"
Myra. - "Borgia of Rosine"
Simon. - "How appropriate. Borgia! As it suits you!" (He pulls her down and kisses her.)
Myra. - (breaking away)"You're too exuberant today, Simon."

The references to Borgia by Rosine from different sources provide a fascinating glimpse into the allure and mystique surrounding this perfume during the early 20th century.

In the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels in 1925, the description of Borgia as a perfume that "with a single drop it makes one mad" suggests its potent and intoxicating nature. The imagery of a viper with a tongue of fire on the badge of the black case adds to the perfume's allure, evoking themes of danger and seduction associated with the notorious Borgia family. Each vial of Rosine is presented as a work of art, designed not only to be worn but also to be admired for its craftsmanship and aesthetic appeal.

In the play "Week End" from 1928, the exchange between Simon and Myra highlights the impact of Borgia as a fragrance that leaves a lasting impression. Simon is captivated by Myra's scent, describing it as "strange and deep," reflecting its complex and enigmatic character. The choice of Borgia as Myra's perfume is noted for its appropriateness, implying a subtle connection between her allure and the historical intrigue associated with the Borgia name. Simon's exuberant reaction to Myra's fragrance underscores the perfume's ability to evoke passion and desire.

Overall, these excerpts depict Borgia by Rosine as more than just a perfume—it is a symbol of mystery, seduction, and sophistication. Its association with the Borgia family adds a layer of historical drama, making it a choice that resonates with themes of power, intrigue, and allure. Through these narratives, Borgia emerges as a fragrance that transcends mere sensory appeal, embodying a narrative that captivates and enchants those who encounter it.

Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office, Volume 610, 1948:

"BORGIA. Registered July 3, 1928. Les Parfums de Rosine, Inc. Renewed July 3, 1948, to Renoir Parfums, Ltd., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York. TOILET ARTICLES — NAMELY, FACE LOTIONS, FACE CREAMS, FACE POWDERS"

Bottle:

The bottle of Borgia perfume, a creation designed by Georges Dumoulin and crafted by the Depinoix glassworks, stands as a striking embodiment of allure and intrigue. Made from black opaque glass infused with real gold dust inclusions, a technique known as "floating gold," each bottle is a unique masterpiece. During production, gold dust was delicately sprinkled into the glass mold while it was still molten, resulting in bottles adorned with intricate patterns of glittering gold specks that shimmer against the dark background. This method not only enhanced the visual appeal but also imparted a sense of luxury and exclusivity to the perfume.

The flacon is elegantly topped with a gilded black ribbed glass stopper, adding a touch of sophistication and refinement. Across the front of the bottle, the name "Borgia" is horizontally painted in gold, subtly emphasizing the perfume's association with the infamous historical figure and the aura of mystery it evokes.

The packaging of Borgia perfume is equally captivating. Encased in a cylindrical box with a pointed top, the exterior is adorned with black paper embellished with a scarlet red and gold shield motif. This emblem features a spitting, curled venomous snake, a symbolic representation of poison that resonates with the perfume's evocative name and the intrigue surrounding the Borgia family.

Standing at 3.8 inches tall, the Borgia bottle not only serves as a vessel for fragrance but also as a testament to the artistry of the glassmakers who employed similar techniques for other prestigious perfumes of the era. Glassworks such as Baccarat and d'Argenteuil also utilized the floating gold technique, illustrating its popularity and the desire for luxurious and visually striking packaging in the perfume industry during the early 20th century. These bottles, including those crafted for perfumes like Miracle by Lentheric and Pepites d'Or by Studia, reflect a period where craftsmanship and design converged to elevate perfume packaging into an art form that mirrored the essence of the fragrances they contained.

 

Other bottles:

Eau de Toilette flacon

Fate of the Fragrance:

Despite its initial success, Borgia perfume was eventually discontinued, following the fate of the rest of the Rosine fragrance line. It continued to be sold in 1930, but not long after, it vanished from the market, marking the end of an era for Paul Poiret's innovative foray into perfumery. The discontinuation likely reflected broader challenges within the Rosine brand, perhaps tied to economic shifts or changes in consumer preferences during the interwar period.

Today, the Borgia perfume bottle, with its exquisite "floating gold" design, has become a coveted item among collectors. These bottles, especially when accompanied by their original presentation boxes, are rare treasures that seldom appear for sale. The presentation box, with its black paper adorned with a scarlet red and gold shield motif featuring a venomous snake, enhances the allure and value of the collectible.

For collectors and enthusiasts of vintage perfumery, acquiring a Borgia bottle represents more than just owning a rare artifact. It is a tangible piece of history that connects the realms of perfumery and fashion, embodying the artistic vision of Paul Poiret. The craftsmanship involved in creating these bottles, combined with their historical significance, makes them highly desirable.

When a Borgia bottle does surface on the market, it commands a premium price, reflecting its rarity and the artistry involved in its creation. The investment is justified not only by the aesthetic and historical value but also by the cultural significance of Paul Poiret's contributions to both fashion and fragrance. Each bottle serves as a reminder of an era when perfumery was as much about art and innovation as it was about the scents themselves, making it a prized possession for any discerning collector.