Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine c1926

The perfume Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine was launched in 1926, a time period characterized by profound cultural and social changes, particularly for women. The Roaring Twenties, or the Jazz Age, was an era of liberation and modernity following the end of World War I. This decade witnessed significant shifts in fashion, art, and societal norms. Women were increasingly asserting their independence, gaining the right to vote in many countries, and exploring new freedoms in both their personal and public lives. The flapper style emerged, symbolizing a break from traditional roles, with women adopting shorter hairstyles, wearing more daring clothing, and embracing a lifestyle that included greater social and sexual freedom.

The name Qui Es-Tu?, meaning "Who are you?" in French, is particularly fitting for a perfume launched in this transformative period. Perfumes are deeply personal and often seen as an extension of one’s identity. By naming the fragrance "Who are you?", it suggests a reflection on identity and individuality, resonating with the contemporary woman who was navigating a rapidly changing world and redefining her role within it. The question implies a sense of introspection and self-discovery, encouraging the wearer to consider her own uniqueness and personal style.

Henri Alméras, the creator of the perfume, and Paul Poiret, the influential fashion designer and founder of Parfums de Rosine, were both known for their innovative and bold approaches. Poiret, in particular, was a pioneer in freeing women from the constraints of the corset and embracing more fluid and artistic expressions of fashion. The choice of a name like Qui Es-Tu? reflects Poiret's avant-garde vision and his understanding of the contemporary woman’s quest for identity and self-expression.

The appeal of this name to women of the 1920s lies in its alignment with the spirit of the times. As women were exploring new roles and asserting their independence, a perfume that posed a question about identity would naturally resonate. It wasn’t merely about the scent but about what the scent represented—an exploration of self, an invitation to define oneself beyond societal expectations, and a celebration of individuality. Women of that era would find this name appealing because it mirrored their own experiences and aspirations, making them feel understood and empowered.

In essence, the name Qui Es-Tu? could be seen as both the perfume asking its wearer to contemplate her identity and the wearer asking the world to recognize and acknowledge her true self. It encapsulates the dynamic interplay between personal introspection and societal recognition, making it a powerful and relevant choice for the modern woman of the 1920s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heavy, spicy floral bouquet fragrance for women, but I have no published notes on this composition. It was described as a "delicate blend with just the faintest hint of spice for interest" aso, "a light spicy perfume, sharp and refreshing to use",  and was suggested to be worn by the "slim, decided blonde."

• Top notes: lilac, citrus, violet
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
• Base notes: spices, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, oakmoss

It was advertised as a "question to which the lilacs will respond to the rose."

Qui est Tu was available in parfum, sachet and talcum powders.

Scent Profile:

Imagine yourself wandering through an enchanting garden where the fragrance of Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine unfolds around you, each ingredient captivating your senses with its unique presence.

As you enter the garden, the top notes greet you with a delicate and inviting freshness. The lilac's gentle, powdery floral aroma is the first to capture your attention, evoking the serene beauty of springtime. Its subtle sweetness intertwines with the crisp and invigorating zest of citrus, adding a bright and refreshing edge to the air. Nearby, clusters of violets offer their shy, tender fragrance, with a faint hint of sweetness and earthiness that grounds the initial burst of floral and citrus notes.

Venturing further into the heart of the garden, you encounter the rich and complex middle notes that form the core of the fragrance. The spicy, clove-like scent of carnations adds a touch of warmth and intrigue, blending seamlessly with the intoxicating aroma of jasmine. The jasmine's heady, exotic scent is both sweet and slightly animalic, creating a sense of mystery and allure. Nearby, delicate lily of the valley bells emit their fresh, green floral scent, light and airy, providing a perfect contrast to the deeper florals. Roses, in full bloom, envelop you with their classic, opulent fragrance—velvety and romantic, embodying timeless elegance and femininity.

As you reach the garden's shaded corners, the base notes reveal themselves, grounding the fragrance with their rich and warm undertones. The spices introduce a subtle hint of heat and complexity, perhaps a blend of cloves, cinnamon, or nutmeg, adding depth and a slight exotic twist. The creamy, woody scent of sandalwood brings a soft, milky warmth, while ambergris imparts a unique, marine, and slightly sweet earthiness. The musk adds a sensual, animalistic edge, enhancing the fragrance's longevity and depth. The earthy, green aroma of oakmoss weaves through these notes, providing a mossy, forest-like quality that ties all the elements together.

The garden experience captures the essence of Qui Es-Tu?, a fragrance that transitions seamlessly from the fresh, delicate top notes to the rich, floral heart, and finally to the warm, spicy base. The interplay of lilacs responding to the roses symbolizes a conversation between the different facets of the fragrance, creating a harmonious and captivating bouquet. This delicate blend, with its faint hint of spice, is designed to be both intriguing and refreshing, appealing to the confident and elegant woman, much like the "slim, decided blonde" suggested in its advertisements.

Bottle:

Imagine holding the elegant flacon of Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine in your hand, a true artifact of 1920s sophistication and craftsmanship. The bottle, a petite 2-ounce size, is crafted from clear glass, allowing you to admire the golden-hued perfume within. Its simplicity and clarity reflect the refined aesthetics of the Art Deco era, focusing on clean lines and understated elegance.

The bottle’s design is both functional and decorative, with its smooth, transparent surface catching the light, creating a delicate play of reflections. The black glass stopper is a striking contrast to the clear bottle, adding a touch of drama and sophistication. This stopper, both practical and ornamental, ensures the perfume is kept secure, preserving its precious contents. Its sleek, glossy finish and rich black color suggest luxury and mystery, inviting the wearer to uncover the fragrance’s secrets.

Holding the bottle, you sense the weight of quality and attention to detail, from the precise fit of the stopper to the balanced proportions of the flacon. It fits comfortably in the hand, its curves smooth and pleasing to the touch, a testament to the era’s dedication to blending form and function in everyday objects.

This Art Deco flacon not only serves as a vessel for the perfume but also as an expression of the era’s design sensibilities and the fragrance’s own character—a delicate blend of lightness and depth, much like the clear glass and the enigmatic black stopper. Displaying it on a vanity, it becomes a timeless piece of art, embodying the elegance and allure of Qui Es-Tu?.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Though the exact discontinuation date of Qui Es-Tu? remains unknown, its continued sale into 1931 indicates its lasting popularity and appeal. During this period, women were exploring new freedoms and forms of self-expression, and the fragrance, with its evocative name meaning "Who are you?", resonated deeply. It invited women to contemplate their identities and embrace their individuality, aligning perfectly with the spirit of the Roaring Twenties.