The Belle Époque, a period spanning from the late 19th century to the onset of World War I in 1914, was a time marked by optimism, cultural flourishing, and technological advancements in Europe. The launch of "Madame et Monsieur" by Rosine in 1916, during the tail end of this era and amidst the tumult of World War I, reflects a longing for the elegance, romance, and refined lifestyle characteristic of the Belle Époque.
The name "Madame et Monsieur" for a perfume set is apt as it directly signifies a pair, a union, or a complementary relationship. It implies sophistication and a refined connection between the two fragrances, tailored specifically for women ("Madame") and men ("Monsieur"). This pairing speaks to the societal norms of the time, where social engagements and relationships were often highlighted by elegance and mutual refinement.
Paul Poiret, a pioneering French fashion designer known for his innovative and artistic approach to fashion, likely chose the name "Madame et Monsieur" to emphasize the duality and harmony of the scents, mirroring the sophistication of couples in society. Poiret’s vision often blended fashion with lifestyle, and this perfume set would align with his philosophy of creating an immersive, luxurious experience.
Women of the period would likely be attracted to a perfume called "Madame" because it denotes elegance, maturity, and a sophisticated allure that aligns with their societal roles and aspirations. It represents grace and refinement, qualities highly valued during the Belle Époque. Men, on the other hand, would find "Monsieur" appealing as it connotes a sense of dignity, respect, and gentlemanly conduct. The imagery of a gloved hand holding a cigarette suggests a refined, suave, and self-assured persona, characteristics admired in men of the era.
Paul Poiret's reasoning for creating a double scent package likely stems from his innovative approach to fashion and lifestyle. By connecting the two bottles, he not only emphasizes the bond between a couple but also introduces a novel marketing concept that appeals to the romantic and social sensibilities of his clientele. The package design, with its interconnected bottles, symbolizes unity and partnership, making it an ideal gift for engagements or weddings, thus enhancing its sentimental and commercial value.
In essence, "Madame et Monsieur" by Rosine encapsulates the elegance, romanticism, and refined social structures of the Belle Époque, making it a fitting and appealing choice for a perfume set aimed at both women and men of the time.
Notions and Fancy Goods, 1916:
Paul Poiret, perhaps best known to Americans as the premiere couturier, is also a maker of high grade perfumes, and during the past two years has worked his way up amongst the world's leading perfumers. Some of his productions, which owing to the high cost of their ingredients are somewhat expensive have nevertheless proven a success wherever shown, particularly the perfume known as Nuit de Chine. This is put up in a replica of an antique Chinese bottle with a blue stopper set in a gold neck and two handles of blue, enclosed in a gold lined box of gold and deep blue Chinese brocade. This, however, gives but a faint idea of the attractiveness of this package.
One of his specialties which is not shown here consists of two long cut crystal bottles with square necks and caps, joined together and put in a box of gold and silver canvas paper. It is called Madame et Monsieur. The label on the box is a very clever sketch in silhouette of a gentleman and lady both having evidently reached the age of contentment and happiness. The two bottles are filled with perfume, one being light to match the silver covering, the other being of an amber tint, matching the gold. The label on the perfume called Madame is a little square of silver with a gloved hand holding a single rose, and that of the perfume called Monsieur consists of the same square, but in gold, and with a gentleman’s gloved hand holding a cigarette. As before stated, both bottles are connected; if you remove one from the package, you must remove the other. This is a very clever idea for an engagement or a wedding present, and gives a slight conception of the very original ideas evolved by this very clever man.
This is very interesting line is put out under the name of Les Parfums de Rosine, Poiret not putting his own name on as the manufacturer, but simply a small label on the bottom which states “Les Parfums de Rosine, Sont Approuves Par Paul Poiret.”
Fragrance Compositions:
So what do these fragrances smell like? Since we only know that they are both "oriental" in style, I would suggest that the man's fragrance is an ambery fougere and the woman's is an ambery floral chypre. I have compiled potential compositions for these fragrances.
Monsieur:
- Top notes: bergamot, clary sage, lavender, amyl salicylate, geranium, petitgrain
- Middle notes: tobacco, patchouli, vetiver, carnation, labdanum, rose
- Base notes: oakmoss, tonka bean, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin
Madame:
- Top notes: bergamot, geranium, petitgrain, neroli
- Middle notes: heliotrope, violet, carnation, labdanum, rose, jasmine, orange blossom
- Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, tonka bean, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin
Bottles:
The "Madame et Monsieur" perfume set, created by Paul Poiret's Rosine, exemplifies elegance and ingenuity in its design. The set comprises two long cut crystal bottles, each featuring square necks and ground glass stoppers, joined together and nestled in a luxurious box crafted from gold and silver canvas paper. The name "Madame et Monsieur" not only denotes the dual nature of the scents but also evokes the sophisticated pairing intended for the set.
The packaging of the set is as thoughtfully designed as the fragrances themselves. The box is adorned with a clever silhouette sketch depicting a gentleman and a lady, both exuding an aura of contentment and happiness, symbolizing the harmonious relationship the scents are meant to represent. This artistic touch adds a sentimental value to the set, making it an ideal gift for special occasions such as engagements or weddings.
Inside the box, the two crystal bottles are distinguished by their contents and corresponding colors. One bottle holds a light colored perfume which corresponds to its silver enameled stopper, while the other contains a rich, amber-tinted fragrance that matches its gold enameled stopper. This color coordination enhances the visual appeal and thematic unity of the set.
Each bottle features a unique label that reflects its gender-specific design. The "Madame" perfume is marked by a small silver square label depicting a gloved hand elegantly holding a single rose, symbolizing femininity and grace. Conversely, the "Monsieur" perfume bears a gold square label with a gentleman's gloved hand holding a cigarette, evoking an image of sophistication and masculine charm.
An innovative aspect of this perfume set is the interconnected nature of the bottles. Designed in such a way that removing one bottle necessitates removing the other, the set underscores the concept of unity and partnership. This clever design not only highlights Poiret's originality but also reinforces the idea of the fragrances being a perfect pair, much like the relationship they aim to symbolize.
Fate of the Fragrance:
While the exact discontinuation date of the "Madame et Monsieur" perfume set remains unknown, it was still offered for sale in 1920. This enduring availability underscores the lasting appeal and timeless elegance of Poiret's creation, which continued to captivate buyers even after the height of its initial release.
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