Chypre des Iles by Rosine c1925

"Chypre des Iles," launched by Rosine in 1925, captures the essence of a time when Mediterranean islands held a magnetic allure for European travelers. These destinations were sought after for their luxurious resorts, pristine beaches, and opportunities for cultural exploration. Visitors indulged in leisurely pursuits, soaking in the sun by day and exploring ancient Greek, Roman, Minoan, Etruscan, and Egyptian ruins by sunset. The islands represented a fusion of natural beauty and historical richness, making them a perfect inspiration for a perfume that sought to evoke both sophistication and escapism.

The name "Chypre des Iles" is apt for a fragrance designed by Paul Poiret, a visionary fashion designer known for his exotic and avant-garde creations. "Chypre" originally refers to Cyprus, an island in the Mediterranean, and in perfumery, it signifies a fragrance category characterized by citrus top notes, floral middle notes, and a base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. "Des Iles," meaning "of the islands," further enhances the perfume's appeal by conjuring images of sun-drenched shores, lush vegetation, and the salty breeze of the sea. This combination of elements paints a sensory picture that resonates with the romanticized notions of Mediterranean beauty and elegance.

Paul Poiret's choice of the name "Chypre des Iles" aligns with the era's fascination with exoticism and the Mediterranean's cultural and natural allure. The name evokes a sense of luxury and adventure, appealing to women of the period who embraced perfumes as symbols of sophistication and personal expression. "Chypre des Iles" would have been particularly attractive to those who appreciated fragrances that embodied both the refined pleasures of resort life and the timeless allure of ancient civilizations. In essence, the perfume encapsulates the spirit of early 20th-century Mediterranean escapism, offering wearers a sensory journey to a world of elegance, beauty, and cultural exploration.

In 1925, Rosine introduced a new line of perfumes named La Serie du Soleil, marking a significant addition to their fragrance offerings. This collection aimed to capture the essence of sunlight and its transformative effects, aligning each perfume with different aspects of warmth, radiance, and natural beauty. Among the notable fragrances featured in this lineup were Jasmin de la Riviera, Ambre de Venise, and Chypre des Îles.

Jasmin de la Riviera, part of the series, celebrated the opulence and floral richness of the French Riviera, showcasing precious jasmine as a central note to evoke the luxurious atmosphere of sun-drenched landscapes. Ambre de Venise, on the other hand, drew its inspiration from Venice and its amber-rich scents, offering a warm and resinous fragrance that exudes sophistication and depth.

Chypre des Îles, translating to Cyprus of the Islands, hinted at a fragrance within the Chypre family known for its citrusy top notes, floral heart, and mossy or woody base. This perfume evokes Mediterranean landscapes and island breezes, creating a fresh and evocative olfactory experience.

Aesthetic continuity was maintained throughout the collection with identically molded, oval-shaped glass bottles adorned with colored ground glass stoppers. This uniform presentation not only emphasized the elegance and sophistication of Rosine's perfumes but also unified the series under a cohesive visual identity, enhancing their appeal to consumers seeking both luxurious scents and exquisite packaging. Together, Jasmin de la Riviera, Ambre de Venise, and Chypre des Îles exemplified Rosine's commitment to capturing the essence of sunlight and offering fragrances that resonated with the beauty and warmth of sunny climates.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a chypre fragrance for women. Taking typical chypres of the time period into consideration, I would imagine it had a composition such as the following:

• Top notes: bergamot, narcissus, cassie, orange, calamus, geranium, hyacinth
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris, nutmeg, tuberose, angelica
• Base notes: ambergris, labdanum, tonka bean, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, civet, castoreum, musk

Scent Profile:

As you explore the ancient ruins and shores of the Mediterranean Sea, the fragrance "Chypre des Iles" unfolds like a sensory journey through time and place. At first sniff, the top notes of bergamot and orange greet you with a burst of citrus freshness, reminiscent of the bright Mediterranean sun overhead. The floral hints of narcissus, cassie, and geranium add a delicate sweetness, evoking the wildflowers that dot the rugged landscape.

Moving deeper into the fragrance, the middle notes emerge like a bouquet of blooming roses and jasmine, their scent mingling with the exotic allure of ylang ylang and the earthy richness of orris and nutmeg. This aromatic blend conjures images of lush gardens and ancient temple courtyards, where floral offerings once perfumed the air during rituals and ceremonies.

As the perfume settles, the base notes anchor the composition with a sense of depth and warmth. The resinous tones of ambergris and labdanum evoke the age-old mysteries of maritime trade, while oakmoss and vetiver evoke the rugged terrain and verdant vegetation of the islands. Subtle hints of sandalwood and patchouli lend a grounding earthiness, reminiscent of the ancient wood and stone structures that have withstood centuries of history.

Underlying it all is a whisper of vanilla and musk, adding a sensual and comforting layer to the fragrance. The subtle animalic notes of civet and castoreum hint at the untamed nature surrounding these ancient sites, where the sea breeze carries salty accents and the taste of brine on your lips.

"Chypre des Iles" encapsulates not just a perfume, but a sensory experience that transports you to the heart of Mediterranean beauty and antiquity. It embodies the elegance and sophistication of early 20th-century women who sought adventure and cultural enlightenment amidst the timeless allure of ancient ruins and sun-drenched shores.

Bottle:

Fate of the fragrance:

"Chypre des Iles" by Rosine, though discontinued with the exact date unknown, was still available for purchase as late as 1930. During its availability, it encapsulated the essence of its era—a time when Mediterranean islands beckoned with their luxurious resorts, ancient ruins, and sun-drenched beaches. The fragrance itself, with its composition featuring top notes of bergamot, orange, and floral hints like narcissus and geranium, would have resonated with women seeking sophistication and escape. Its middle notes of roses, jasmine, and ylang ylang, alongside earthy elements such as orris and nutmeg, created a rich olfactory tapestry. The base notes, comprising ambergris, labdanum, oakmoss, and others, provided depth and warmth, evoking the timeless allure of the Mediterranean landscape. "Chypre des Iles" not only offered a sensory journey but also symbolized an era of elegance and exploration, making its presence felt amidst the cultural and societal tapestry of its time.