Antinea by Rosine c1922

The launch of the perfume Antinea by Rosine in 1922 coincided with a period of burgeoning artistic and cultural exploration known as the Roaring Twenties. This era was characterized by a spirit of liberation, innovation, and a fascination with the exotic and the unknown. Society was captivated by stories of exploration, discovery, and mythical tales, which permeated literature, art, and fashion.

Pronounced "Ahn-tee-nay-ah," the name "Antinea" would have been particularly appealing for a perfume during this time. Antinea, as the legendary figure from Pierre Benoit's novel "L'Atlantide," symbolized a femme fatale archetype—mysterious, alluring, and enigmatic. She was the queen of Atlantis, a mythical city submerged beneath the sea, embodying both beauty and danger. Women of the 1920s were increasingly asserting their independence and breaking away from traditional roles, seeking to embody qualities of empowerment and allure. Antinea represented a compelling figure of feminine strength and allure, resonating with women who sought to challenge conventions and embrace their own sensuality and mystique.

The connection to Pierre Benoit's novel adds a sophisticated layer of intrigue to the perfume. It suggests a blend of literature and artistry, appealing to those with a penchant for storytelling and romance. The fragrance itself, inspired by the mysterious depths of the sea and the mythical allure of Atlantis, would evoke a sense of adventure and exoticism. Imagine wearing a scent that transports you to the ethereal beauty of underwater realms, evoking images of hidden treasures and lost civilizations.

For women of the 1920s, wearing Antinea would have been more than just applying a fragrance—it would have been a statement. It would signify a connection to mythical narratives, a celebration of feminine allure and strength, and a way to indulge in the romanticism of lost worlds and unexplored mysteries. The allure of Antinea lay not only in its captivating scent but also in its ability to evoke a sense of fantasy and escapism, appealing to the imaginations of those who dared to dream beyond the ordinary.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? It was described as having the scent of "salt marshes and the sharp, bitter and pungent seaweed." I would imagine it was a type of chypre fragrance.

Antinea had a low level of the C-12 MNA aldehyde which gave it facets of fresh amber, aldehydes, moss, citrus, tuberose, metallic, waxy, and coumarin.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, seaweed, lemon, sea salt
• Middle notes: geranium, tuberose, rose, jasmine, artemisia, lotus, patchouli
• Base notes: galbanum, tolu, ambrette, oakmoss, vetiver, tonka bean, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, civet, labdanum

 Scent Profile:

As you explore Antinea by Rosine, the initial impression transports you to the edge of a vast, ancient sea. The first whiff brings forth the crispness of aldehydes, sparkling like sunlight dancing on the waves. There's a fresh tang of bergamot, reminiscent of citrus carried by sea breezes, intermingling with the briny aroma of sea salt. These top notes evoke the sensation of standing on a rocky shoreline, where the air is infused with the invigorating scent of seaweed, its sharp bitterness softened by the gentle warmth of lemon.

Moving deeper into the fragrance, you encounter the heart notes that unfold like a bouquet laid upon a weathered driftwood. Geranium adds a green, floral essence, while tuberose and jasmine bloom luxuriously, their heady scents balanced by the herbaceous tones of artemisia. Rose petals mingle with the aquatic notes, suggesting a delicate bloom thriving near the water's edge, embraced by the earthy richness of patchouli. Lotus adds a serene, aqueous touch, enhancing the overall sense of tranquility amidst the wild beauty of the coast.

As the scent settles, the base notes anchor the fragrance with a sense of ancient mystery and depth. Galbanum adds a resinous greenness, reminiscent of seaweed clinging to rocks, while tolu balsam lends a sweet, balsamic warmth akin to sun-warmed driftwood. Ambrette seed provides a musky nuance, suggestive of the salt-laden air, while oakmoss and vetiver evoke the ruggedness of coastal vegetation. Ambergris emerges softly, like a treasure washed ashore—a complex blend of marine and earthy notes that enhances the perfume's allure.

Sandalwood and vanilla add a creamy, comforting undertone, reminiscent of sun-bleached shells and polished pebbles collected along the shore. Civet and labdanum impart a subtle animalic richness, hinting at hidden depths beneath the surface. Together, these base notes create a lingering impression of warmth and sensuality, akin to the enduring charm of the sunken city of Atlantis itself—lost yet forever remembered.

Antinea by Rosine is indeed a chypre fragrance that masterfully captures the essence of the fabled Atlantis, seaweed, driftwood, salt marshes, and the seaside. It weaves together elements of the sea and land, blending them into a harmonious olfactory tapestry that evokes a sense of adventure, mystery, and timeless allure.

Bottles:

The presentation of Antinea by Rosine encapsulates a harmonious blend of Eastern allure and Western sophistication, resonating deeply with the artistic sensibilities of its time, particularly influenced by Paul Poiret's fascination with exotic cultures and mythical lands such as Atlantis. Housed in a polished metal flask resembling a traditional Japanese inro box, the fragrance's packaging is a testament to Poiret's love for Oriental aesthetics. This choice not only reflects a cross-cultural appreciation but also elevates the allure of Antinea to a realm of luxury and artistry.

The flask itself, crafted in silver-toned metal, mirrors the intricate design and practical elegance of an inro box, traditionally used to hold small treasures suspended from the obi sash of a kimono. This homage to Japanese craftsmanship imbues Antinea with a sense of exclusivity and exoticism, transporting users to a world where beauty and mystery converge.

Enhancing the flask's appeal is its stopper, tinted in translucent rose and yellow hues and adorned with a green satin cord. These delicate touches not only evoke the fragrance's themes of sea and nature but also underscore its luxurious presentation. The choice of materials and colors speaks to a meticulous attention to detail, reflecting the artistry synonymous with both Poiret's designs and Rosine's perfumery.

Further complementing the flask is its packaging—a cardstock box enveloped in gold paper and lined with satin. This opulent casing not only protects the precious contents but also enhances the overall sensory experience, inviting anticipation and admiration before the flask is even opened.

For those preferring an alternative to the metal flask, clear glass bottles are available, echoing its design and adorned with the same elegant stopper. This consistency in presentation ensures that every facet of Antinea's allure is meticulously curated, from its inception as a fragrance to its final adornment in the hands of its discerning users.

In sum, Antinea by Rosine stands as a testament to timeless elegance and cultural appreciation, encapsulating the mythical allure of Atlantis through its fragrance and presenting it in a package that seamlessly merges Eastern tradition with Western luxury. It invites admirers to indulge in a sensorial journey where myth, art, and fragrance converge into an experience both unforgettable and evocative.

1921 ad

Atomizers:

In 1912-1913, Rosine introduced a groundbreaking innovation in the world of perfumery with the launch of atomizers paired with matching saucers for their fragrances. This concept was not only a mark of luxury but also a testament to the brand's dedication to elegance and sophistication. The saucers, crafted from delicate blown glass reminiscent of hookah bases, represented a fusion of artistry and functionality. Hand-painted at the prestigious Martine workshop, each saucer was a masterpiece in its own right, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The introduction of these atomizers and saucers marked a significant milestone for Rosine, offering customers a refined way to display and use their favorite scents. This innovative approach elevated the sensory experience of perfume application, turning it into a ritual of beauty and indulgence. The decision to debut this luxurious accessory alongside the perfume Antinea, ou au fond de la Mer, underscored the fragrance's special status within the Rosine collection. Known for its mythical allure and evocative scent inspired by the depths of the sea, Antinea was a fitting choice to inaugurate this new era of presentation.

By launching these atomizers and saucers, Rosine positioned itself as a pioneer in perfumery, setting standards of excellence in both product design and customer experience. The blend of artful design and practical elegance embodied in these sets not only enhanced the allure of Rosine fragrances but also cemented the brand's reputation as a leader in luxury beauty. This innovative spirit continues to resonate through Rosine's legacy, reflecting a timeless commitment to innovation, craftsmanship, and the art of scent.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 Discontinued in 1930, Antinea by Rosine faced the common fate of many fragrances which cease production due to evolving consumer tastes, ingredient availability, or strategic decisions by the brand. The clearance sale of its remaining stock at drastically reduced prices was a standard practice aimed at clearing inventory and making way for new products in the market.

While the discontinuation of Antinea in 1930 was regrettable, the clearance sale presented an opportunity for fragrance enthusiasts to acquire the scent at more affordable prices. Such events typically draw in aficionados eager to replenish their collections or explore new fragrances without the usual financial commitment.

Despite no longer being actively produced, Antinea's legacy endures through the memories and experiences of those who cherished its unique blend of mythology, craftsmanship, and olfactory artistry. The fragrance remains a poignant reminder of Rosine's rich history in perfumery and its ability to weave narratives through scent.

Today, bottles of Antinea are rare finds, and when they do appear in the market, they often command premium prices due to their scarcity and the allure of owning a piece of fragrance history. This scarcity further enhances the fragrance's mystique, ensuring that its story continues to captivate and inspire fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike.