Coup de Foudre by Rosine c1925

In 1925, the year Coup de Foudre by Rosine was launched, the world was experiencing a transformative period marked by cultural dynamism and social liberation. The Roaring Twenties saw a flourishing of artistic expression, significant shifts in societal norms, and a newfound independence for women. It was an era characterized by jazz, flapper fashion, and a rejection of Victorian ideals in favor of modernity and freedom.

Pronounced as "Coo duh FOO-druh," the name "Coup de Foudre" chosen by Paul Poiret for his perfume line was not just a linguistic choice; it carried deep cultural and emotional resonance. Translating to "bolt of lightning" or "thunderbolt" in French, the term signifies a sudden and intense romantic attraction—a notion synonymous with the French expression for "love at first sight." This choice was particularly poignant as it encapsulated the spirit of excitement and passion that defined the 1920s.

Henri Alméras, the perfumer behind Coup de Foudre, crafted a fragrance that embodied the essence of its name. Known for his expertise in creating elegant and evocative scents, Alméras likely tailored Coup de Foudre to reflect the era's sophistication and sensuality. The perfume would have been designed to captivate and enchant, offering a sensory experience that aligned with the liberated spirit of the time.

For women in the 1920s, the name "Coup de Foudre" would have held a powerful allure. It symbolized not only a romantic ideal but also a sense of daring and modernity. In an era where societal norms were being challenged and women were asserting their independence, the notion of being struck by a thunderbolt of love resonated deeply. The name suggested spontaneity, passion, and a rejection of traditional expectations—a sentiment that echoed the aspirations of many women embracing the freedoms of the Jazz Age.

In conclusion, Coup de Foudre by Rosine, created by Henri Alméras and launched in 1925, epitomized the spirit of its time. Its name, chosen by Paul Poiret, evoked the thrill of love's sudden impact, appealing to women who sought romance, adventure, and self-expression during the exhilarating decade of the 1920s. Henri Alméras's olfactory masterpiece would have complemented this spirit, offering a fragrance that was as bold and captivating as the era itself.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was an aldehydic woody floral chypre fragrance for women. Also said to be the first jasmine and aldehyde perfume ever created. Coup de Foudre had a low level of the C-12 MNA aldehyde which gave it facets of fresh amber, aldehydes, moss, citrus, tuberose, metallic, waxy, and coumarin.

• Top notes: saffron, cloves, petitgrain, geranium, bitter orange, angelica, aldehydes, cassie and bergamot
• Middle notes: carnation, hyacinth, nutmeg, tuberose, jasmine, orris and ylang ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, cedar, storax, castoreum, civet, labdanum, tonka bean, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss and musk

 Coup de Foudre was advertised as having a "sharp and prompt note on a very voluptuous background."

The New Yorker, 1932:

" Rosine: Coup de Foudre join Nuit de Chine and Maharajah for tigress women."

Scent Profile:

 Imagine standing in the midst of a summer thunderstorm, where the air crackles with electricity and anticipation. As the first notes of Coup de Foudre perfume reach your senses, there is an immediate sharpness, like the tang of ozone that precedes a lightning strike. It's exhilarating and fresh, awakening your senses much like the electrifying atmosphere of a storm. You can almost hear distant rumbles of thunder, feel the hair on your arms stand on end, and taste the metallic hint of raindrops on your tongue.

The initial burst of saffron and cloves is potent and spicy, akin to the sharpness of lightning cutting through the humid air. They bring warmth and intensity, accompanied by the fresh green notes of petitgrain and angelica, reminiscent of leaves and stems refreshed by rain. Bitter orange adds a touch of citrus brightness, like the sudden flash of color against dark storm clouds, while aldehydes sparkle like raindrops catching sunlight.

As the storm intensifies, the perfume unfolds with the delicate emergence of floral notes. Jasmine and rose bloom forth, their soft, sweet aromas mingling with the charged atmosphere. It's a moment akin to love at first sight, where emotions bloom intensely and unexpectedly. Tuberose adds a creamy richness, reminiscent of flowers in a garden drenched by a sudden summer rain, their petals glistening with moisture.

Underlying these florals, there's a verdant greenery that grounds the fragrance. Freshly crushed leaves and stems release an earthy scent, evoking stability amidst the storm's energy. This green aspect adds depth and a sense of rootedness, akin to the assurance of a shared connection between two people meeting unexpectedly.

After a summer storm passes, the air is often filled with a refreshing, earthy aroma. Similarly, the base notes of Coup de Foudre, including vetiver, cedar, patchouli, and oakmoss, capture this post-rain atmosphere beautifully.

Vetiver and cedar provide a woody foundation that is reminiscent of damp earth and freshly washed tree bark. These notes bring a grounding and comforting element to the fragrance, akin to the feeling of stability and renewal that follows a storm. Patchouli and oakmoss contribute a mossy, green quality that enhances the earthy character. They evoke the scent of wet leaves and forest floor, imbuing the perfume with a sense of natural freshness and depth.

Storax and labdanum add a resinous sweetness that can be likened to the lingering scent of resins and sap in the air after rain. This aspect of the fragrance adds a warm and comforting dimension, reminiscent of the subtle sweetness that lingers as the storm clears. Tonka bean and vanilla provide a soft, creamy richness that rounds out the base notes. They contribute to the overall warmth and depth of the fragrance, much like the comforting embrace of sunlight breaking through clouds after a downpour.

Together, these base notes create a complex and evocative olfactory experience that mirrors the sensory journey of experiencing a summer storm—from the sharpness and electricity of the initial lightning strike to the comforting, earthy aftermath of rain-soaked surroundings. Coup de Foudre perfume captures these nuances beautifully, offering a fragrance that resonates with both freshness and warmth, akin to the serene calm that follows a powerful summer rain.

Bottles:

 

Through Coup de Foudre, Poiret pays homage to Jeanne Lanvin, a close friend and esteemed figure in haute couture, through its exquisite design and presentation. The bottle itself is a graceful tribute to Lanvin's artistic sensibilities, echoing the fluid tiers of fabric seen in Paul Poiret's 1924 collection, possibly inspired by the skirt known as "Vinaigre." This elegant form encapsulates the essence of haute couture, marrying fashion and fragrance in a seamless blend of artistry.

The presentation box, adorned in the distinctive shade of cornflower blue known as "Lanvin Blue," pays homage to Maison Lanvin's iconic trademark color. Legend has it that this hue originates from a Fra Angelico painting, symbolizing the intersection of art and fashion. Embossed in yellow with the name "Coup de Foudre" and "Rosine-Paris," the box features a stylized bolt of lightning in the shape of an "S," a direct nod to the perfume's evocative name.

Crafted from clear crystal, the bottle itself is a masterpiece of modern design. Its conical shape is adorned with stepped concentric circles, each tapering towards the top where a striking blue ground glass stopper sits. This stopper not only complements the cornflower blue of the box but also adds a vibrant splash of color, creating a harmonious visual balance between packaging and container.

Although the identity of the glassmaker responsible for this stunning bottle remains a mystery, its timeless design would later inspire others in the perfume industry. Notably, in 1938, renowned glass artist René Lalique would echo this elegant form with a similar design for Imprudence by Parfums Worth, underscoring the enduring influence and appeal of Coup de Foudre's original aesthetic.

In essence, Coup de Foudre not only embodies the essence of a thunderbolt of love through its fragrance but also pays homage to the artistry and craftsmanship that define haute couture and luxury perfume. Its bottle and packaging stand as testaments to the collaborative spirit between fashion and fragrance, celebrating beauty in both scent and design.

photo from the Poiret Exhibition

photo by Rago Arts

Fate of the Fragrance:

Coup de Foudre stands as a relic of early 20th-century fashion and perfumery, a testament to the creative synergy between two iconic figures: Paul Poiret and Jeanne Lanvin. Unfortunately, despite its initial allure and artistic significance, Coup de Foudre was discontinued at some point, with its last known sales documented in 1936. This rarity only adds to its mystique and appeal among collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Central to the allure of Coup de Foudre is its exquisite packaging—a bottle and box that embody the elegance and innovation of their time. The bottle, crafted from clear crystal with stepped concentric circles tapering towards a striking blue ground glass stopper, exudes sophistication and modernity. Its design, reminiscent of Poiret's avant-garde fashion collections, particularly echoes the fluid tiers of fabric seen in his 1924 creation "Vinaigre."

The presentation box, adorned in the trademark cornflower blue associated with Lanvin, further enhances the perfume's collectible status. Embossed with the names "Coup de Foudre" and "Rosine-Paris," and featuring a stylized bolt of lightning, the box encapsulates the essence of the perfume's evocative name and luxurious appeal.

Today, finding intact examples of Coup de Foudre with both bottle and box intact is a rare treat for collectors. When such treasures surface in the market, they command high prices due to their historical significance, association with esteemed fashion pioneers, and exquisite craftsmanship. Collectors and enthusiasts are advised to seize the opportunity if presented, as acquiring a piece of Coup de Foudre is not just owning a fragrance, but possessing a tangible piece of early 20th-century fashion history.