Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Toute La Foret by Rosine c1911

The perfume "Toute La Foret" by Rosine was launched in 1911, during a period characterized by significant changes in societal norms and aesthetics. This was the early 20th century, a time marked by the Belle Époque in France, where there was a flourishing of arts, fashion, and a growing interest in naturalism and romanticism.

The name "Toute La Foret," pronounced as "Toot lah fo-ray,"  meaning "The Whole Forest," suggests a connection to nature and a desire to evoke natural landscapes through scent. At the time, there was a romanticized fascination with the outdoors and the idea of pristine, untouched wilderness. Perfumes with names evoking nature and natural elements appealed to the sensibilities of the era's women, who often sought escapism and a connection to the natural world amidst the rapid urbanization and industrialization.

For women in the early 20th century, perfumes like "Toute La Foret" offered a way to indulge in fantasies of leisurely strolls through lush forests, filled with herbal aromas and the delicate fragrances of forest flowers. The scent aimed to capture the essence of happy moments spent in Fontainebleau, a renowned forest near Paris known for its beauty and tranquility. This association with a specific place added a layer of nostalgia and sophistication to the perfume's allure.



The promotional artwork by Raoul Dufy, featuring stylized prints of leaves and birds, further enhanced the perfume's appeal. Such visuals not only complemented the natural theme but also conveyed a sense of artistic refinement and elegance, appealing to the artistic and cultural sensibilities of the time.

The endorsement of "Toute La Foret" by American actress Mary Pickford, known for her charm and influence in shaping early 20th-century beauty ideals, would have undoubtedly contributed to its popularity among women seeking to emulate the glamour and sophistication associated with celebrities of the era.

In summary, the name "Toute La Foret" was apt for its time as it evoked romanticized visions of nature, nostalgia for idyllic landscapes, and a desire for artistic and sensory experiences that transcended the everyday. Its appeal lay in offering women a fragrance that symbolized both luxury and a connection to the natural world, catering to the romantic and aspirational ideals prevalent in early 20th-century society.

 
Illustrated Comœdia - Volume 6,  1913:
"'Toute la Forêt' and 'Nuit de Chine' are Rosine's latest creations. These names, as refined and subtle as the perfumes they designate, are already known to all our elegant Parisians who wrap themselves in the heady scents of these new essences. What can be said of the bottles of such refined taste, of such an original cut, which give refuge to these perfumes? We reproduce, on the fourth page of our cover, these marvels, true works of art worthy of appearing in the collection of ancient or modern trinkets with which every boudoir is adorned."


In the pages of Illustrated Comœdia from 1913, the allure of Rosine's latest creations, "Toute la Forêt" and "Nuit de Chine," captivates Parisian society with their refined and subtle essence. These perfumes, described as heady and intoxicating, have quickly become favorites among the city's elegant elite, who revel in enveloping themselves in their luxurious scents.

The article praises not only the fragrances themselves but also the exquisite bottles that house them. These vessels are lauded for their refined taste and original design, described as true works of art worthy of gracing the collections of antique or contemporary trinkets that adorn every fashionable boudoir. The admiration for these bottles underscores their role not just as containers but as decorative pieces that enhance the beauty and sophistication of their surroundings.

Illustrated Comœdia, by featuring these marvels on its cover, showcases their status as coveted items among the cultural and social elite of Paris. The publication's endorsement solidifies the perfumes' place at the pinnacle of haute couture and luxury, where fragrance becomes not just a personal adornment but a statement of elegance and refinement.

In essence, the article portrays "Toute la Forêt" and "Nuit de Chine" not only as perfumes but as cultural artifacts that embody the artistic and aesthetic ideals of early 20th-century Parisian society. They represent a harmonious fusion of olfactory pleasure and visual sophistication, appealing to connoisseurs who appreciate beauty in both scent and design.


In 1923, a newspaper article captured the fervor surrounding the arrival of the perfume "Tout le Foret" in Canada. The excitement was palpable, stemming from the endorsement of Paul Poiret, a renowned figure in the fashion world. Poiret's enthusiasm for the fragrance underscored its association with high fashion and sophistication. His collaboration with Rosine to create a perfume that complemented his avant-garde fashion designs heightened its appeal, positioning it as not merely a scent but a statement of elegance and refinement.

The article vividly described the sensory allure of "Tout le Foret." It portrayed the perfume as embodying a "fresh forest aroma" that evoked a profound sense of renewal and natural beauty. The imagery of "the old earth... created anew" conjured visions of pristine woodlands and rejuvenation, resonating with consumers who sought escapism and a connection to the purity of nature amidst the bustling urban landscapes of the early 20th century. Such descriptions not only romanticized the perfume but also aligned it with the growing cultural fascination with the natural world and its therapeutic qualities.


Detailing its availability in the marketplace, the article highlighted two distinct presentations of the perfume. One option, priced at "four dollars and a half an ounce," catered to those seeking accessibility without compromising on quality. The other, presented in a luxurious Parisian case priced at "seven dollars and a quarter," appealed to consumers desiring an enhanced sensory and aesthetic experience. This dual pricing strategy positioned "Tout le Foret" as a versatile luxury item, accessible to a broader audience while maintaining exclusivity for discerning buyers who valued both craftsmanship and presentation.

Moreover, the mention of its availability in Canada underscored the international prestige and reach of the Rosine brand. By expanding into new markets, "Tout le Foret" not only capitalized on its association with Poiret's fashion empire but also tapped into the global allure of French perfumery. Its presence in Canadian perfume shops signified its status as a coveted import, offering consumers outside of Europe the opportunity to indulge in the luxury and sophistication associated with French fragrances and haute couture.

In conclusion, the 1923 newspaper article encapsulated the allure of "Tout le Foret" as more than just a perfume—it was a sensory experience that intertwined nature, fashion, and luxury. Endorsed by Paul Poiret and described in evocative terms, the fragrance captivated consumers with its promise of renewal and elegance. Its availability in Canada marked a significant expansion for Rosine, cementing its reputation as a purveyor of exquisite perfumes that resonated with the refined tastes of fashionable women seeking both sensory delight and cultural prestige.

Paul Poiret's creation, a spicy and clean fragrance designed specifically for sportswear, embodies the essence of a fresh morning in the countryside. Inspired by the dawn in the woods, it captures the crisp, invigorating scent of pine trees and other woodland foliage. The perfume reflects Poiret's innovative approach to fashion and beauty, translating nature's raw beauty into a scent that harmonizes with active lifestyles.

Adopted by the most fashionable women of the era, this fragrance symbolizes a modern trend of selecting perfumes that evoke the outdoors, even when engaging in sports and leisure activities. Its appeal lies in its ability to bring a touch of nature's purity and vitality into everyday life, enhancing both the senses and the spirit.

Priced at $7.50 an ounce, this perfume signifies luxury and exclusivity, appealing to women who appreciate quality and elegance in their scent choices. For those seeking a more compact option, it is also available in a smaller flacon size for 50 cents, ensuring accessibility without compromising on the essence of sophistication and natural allure.

In summary, Paul Poiret's sportswear perfume is more than just a fragrance—it's a statement of style and vitality. It captures the essence of outdoor freshness, making it a perfect companion for active women who embrace both fashion and the spirit of adventure.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woodsy floral fougere fragrance for women with a dominant lily of the valley note. It was suggested to be worn specifically with sportswear, but could certainly appeal to men as well. It was described as having the scent of "old leaves, that rich, damp smell of woods in autumn, boxwood, pine trees and oakmoss". "The pungent tang of pine, the bittersweet smell of boxwood, the exquisite air of the white violets, in this one breath of the forest."
  • Top notes: bergamot, sweet pea, hyacinth, lily of the valley, mint, lavender
  • Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, narcissus, white violet, rose, carnation, spices, thyme
  • Base notes: ambergris, labdanum, vanilla, cedar, pine, oakmoss, boxwood, fern, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver


Commissioned by Poiret, his friend Roger Boutet de Monvel wrote a poem about the perfume entitled "Toute la Foret or The Whole Forest"
The aroma of a lily of the valley, a hint of wild fern and also the scent of wet grass. One dreams of cool mornings in the woods, of their green depths, of the silent ponds asleep under the branches. The air is biting, sharp, flowing, delicious. one dreams of spring awakenings, of juvenile surges, of the shimmering, beautiful days. But mostly one dreams of the secret path, of the stark bench, of dear and familiar footsteps. Yes, really, it is the same scent, subtle and invigorating, the perfume of humid moss, of buds about to open, of water streaming through mint and thyme, the same breath, pure and ethereal, having rushed through the quivering foliage bringing happiness, the caress of dawn, the exuberance of burgeoning love.


Scent Profile:


Imagine standing at the edge of a lush forest, surrounded by towering pine trees and the earthy aroma of damp moss underfoot. As you inhale deeply, the top notes of "Toute la Foret" envelop you in a sensory journey through this woodland paradise.

The scent opens with a burst of bergamot, instantly refreshing like a cool breeze brushing against your face. It's accompanied by the delicate sweetness of sweet pea, reminiscent of floral blooms peeking through the undergrowth. Hyacinth adds a touch of crispness, its green facets echoing the vibrant foliage around you. Lily of the valley, the heart of this fragrance, emerges with its ethereal floralcy, evoking the purity and freshness of springtime in the forest. Mint and lavender lend a herbaceous twist, their aromatic notes intertwining like tendrils of wild herbs brushing against your fingertips.

Moving deeper into the forest, the middle notes unveil a richer tapestry of scents. Jasmine and orange blossom bloom in the dappled sunlight, their heady aromas mingling with the sweetness of narcissus and the delicate allure of white violet. Rose and carnation add depth and complexity, their spicy nuances echoing the intertwining branches of ancient trees. A hint of spices and thyme adds a subtle warmth, like the sun filtering through the canopy, casting patterns of light and shadow on the forest floor.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the essence of the forest becomes more pronounced. Ambergris and labdanum create a velvety backdrop, reminiscent of the rich, earthy soil beneath your feet. Vanilla lends a comforting sweetness, like the distant memory of sun-warmed wood. Cedar and pine evoke the sturdy trunks of ancient trees, their resinous scent grounding you in the forest's timeless embrace. Oakmoss and boxwood contribute a mossy green accord, infusing the air with the deep, verdant aroma of dense foliage. Fern and patchouli add a hint of earthiness, while sandalwood and vetiver provide a lingering woody finish, like the lingering whisper of wind through the branches.

In every breath of "Toute la Foret," you experience the essence of a spring forest in full bloom—a symphony of floral notes harmonizing with the rich, woody undertones of the woods. It captures the spirit of nature's beauty, inviting you to immerse yourself in its tranquil and rejuvenating embrace, whether you're donning sportswear on an outdoor adventure or simply seeking a moment of connection with the natural world.

Bottles:















Bottle: flask blown glass, bulbous base painted "by hand" at Atelier Martine.
Decor bluebells old pink alternating green palm tree, high tubular neck surrounded by metallic gold cord. Circular paper label with red and white background graphics pasted on the base: Height: 14 cm

Fate of the Fragrance:


Despite its initial popularity and recognition alongside other esteemed Rosine perfumes, "Toute la Foret" faced discontinuation by 1930. Initially, the perfume continued to be sold, as evidenced by its listing in the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico in 1929. This publication included a comprehensive catalog of Rosine's offerings at the time, showcasing a diverse range of fragrances that captured the essence of their era.

The list, featuring names like Ambre de Venise, Nuit de Chine, and others, underscores Rosine's commitment to creating evocative and memorable perfumes that resonated with discerning consumers. Each perfume likely carried its own narrative and character, appealing to different tastes and preferences within the luxury fragrance market.

However, despite its presence in 1929, "Toute la Foret" eventually met its end in 1930. The decision to discontinue the perfume suggests various factors may have influenced Rosine's product strategy at the time, such as evolving trends in fragrance preferences, economic considerations, or shifts in the company's branding and marketing focus.

The clearance of remaining stock at drastically reduced prices marks the final chapter for "Toute la Foret." This clearance likely offered consumers a final opportunity to acquire a beloved fragrance at a more accessible cost, while also signaling the end of an era for this particular scent in the world of perfumery.

In retrospect, the discontinuation of "Toute la Foret" highlights the dynamic nature of the perfume industry, where even celebrated scents must adapt to changing tastes and market conditions. Despite its eventual departure from the market, "Toute la Foret" remains a testament to Rosine's legacy of craftsmanship and creativity in fragrance artistry during the early 20th century.

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