Sang de France by Rosine c1915

Paul Poiret's creation of the perfume "Sang de France" in 1915 was born out of a deeply personal tragedy—the passing of his daughter Rosine earlier that year. As a renowned figure in the fashion and perfume industry, Poiret sought to memorialize his daughter's memory with a fragrance housed in a distinctive red crystal bottle shaped like a stylized human heart. This design choice was laden with symbolism, representing Poiret's enduring love for Rosine and perhaps alluding to the profound emotions of wartime, where the color red often evoked both love and the sacrifice of bloodshed.

Adding to the bottle's poignant design was a frosted glass stopper fashioned in the shape of angel's wings. This element symbolized Poiret's hope that Rosine had found peace in heaven, transformed into an angel, and conveyed his heartfelt wish for her eternal happiness. Together, these elements—the heart-shaped bottle and angelic wings stopper—transformed "Sang de France" into more than just a perfume; it became a profound memorial to Poiret's grief and his deep personal loss.

The launch of "Sang de France" in 1915 occurred amidst the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by immense national turmoil and sacrifice in France. The name itself, translating to "Blood of France," held significant patriotic connotations, resonating deeply with a population grappling with the devastating effects of war. For French citizens, particularly women who found themselves shouldering new responsibilities and mourning the loss of loved ones, "Sang de France" offered not just a fragrance, but a poignant connection to the collective spirit of resilience and sacrifice.

However, the perfume's release was reportedly met with resistance from authorities, possibly due to sensitivities surrounding wartime imagery and emotions. This reaction underscored the complex interplay between personal expression and societal expectations during such a solemn period.

In summary, "Sang de France" by Rosine stands as a testament to Paul Poiret's personal grief and artistic expression amidst the turmoil of World War I. Through its symbolic design and evocative name, the perfume encapsulated themes of love, loss, and hope, resonating deeply with a nation navigating the profound challenges of wartime.

Spirit of Saint-Louis by Rosine c1927

In 1927, the year Spirit of Saint-Louis perfume was launched by Paul Poiret, the world was captivated by the achievements in aviation, particularly Charles Lindbergh's groundbreaking transatlantic flight. This period marked a zenith in early aviation, where daring pilots were pushing the boundaries of what was considered possible. Transatlantic flights were still rare and risky endeavors, embodying the spirit of adventure, courage, and technological progress.

The name "Spirit of Saint-Louis" was not only a direct homage to Lindbergh's custom-built aircraft but also a symbol of the spirit of adventure and ambition that characterized the era. Lindbergh's feat captured the imagination of people worldwide, symbolizing the triumph of human will and ingenuity over vast distances and challenging conditions. By naming his perfume after this iconic aircraft, Paul Poiret was tapping into the zeitgeist of the time, associating his fragrance with notions of daring, freedom, and modernity.

 

For American women, the perfume would have held significant appeal as it celebrated an American hero and an achievement that brought global acclaim to the United States. Lindbergh's flight represented a moment of national pride and a breaking of barriers, resonating deeply with American women who were increasingly asserting independence and breaking away from traditional roles.

On the other hand, for French women, the perfume would have represented a touch of exoticism and adventure associated with transatlantic flights. France, as a hub of fashion and culture, would have appreciated the symbolism of Lindbergh's achievement and the daring spirit it embodied. The perfume thus bridged the gap between American and French sensibilities, appealing to both as a symbol of modernity and progress.

In essence, Spirit of Saint- Louis perfume encapsulated the spirit of its time—celebrating innovation, courage, and the thrill of breaking new ground. By paying tribute to Charles Lindbergh and his historic flight, Paul Poiret ensured that his fragrance not only captured the essence of the era but also resonated deeply with the aspirations and ideals of women on both sides of the Atlantic. It became a symbol of modern femininity infused with the adventurous spirit of the age of aviation.

Mam'zelle Victoire by Rosine c1915

The perfume "Mam'zelle Victoire" by Rosine was launched in 1915, during a tumultuous period in world history. The First World War had already begun, with the conflict starting in July 1914. By 1915, the war had escalated into a full-scale global conflict involving many of the world's great powers. Europe was engulfed in trench warfare, with battles causing massive casualties and widespread devastation.

During this time, France was deeply involved in the war effort. The country was one of the major fronts of the war, with battles such as the Second Battle of Ypres and the Battle of Loos taking place in 1915. The French government and its people were fully mobilized, both on the home front and the battlefields. Nationalism and patriotic fervor were high, as France sought to defend itself against German aggression and recover occupied territories.

The name "Mam'zelle Victoire," translating to "Miss Victory," was particularly appropriate for a perfume launched during this period. It conveyed a sense of optimism and hope for victory in a time of great uncertainty and hardship. Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer and perfumer, likely chose this name to resonate with the national sentiment and to boost morale. The name combined a youthful and charming term of endearment, "Mam'zelle" (a casual form of "Mademoiselle"), with the powerful and aspirational word "Victoire" (Victory), embodying the spirit of resilience and triumph.

The perfume, and its name, would have strongly resonated with women of the period. Women were playing crucial roles in the war effort, both in France and abroad, taking on jobs and responsibilities traditionally held by men who were now at the front. The name "Mam'zelle Victoire" would have been a source of inspiration, symbolizing their contribution to the eventual success and the positive future they were fighting for.

The images and feelings evoked by "Mam'zelle Victoire" are those of patriotism, strength, and hope. The symbolism of the French Republic—tricolor flags, the rooster, cockade, and revolutionary clothing—alongside the central image of Marianne, who represents liberty and reason, would have been particularly meaningful to French women. These symbols reinforced their national identity and unity during a time of crisis, serving as a reminder of what they were defending.

It is said that Georges Lepape collaborated with Poiret on the perfume bottle and packaging design and, of course, completed all the artwork for the labelling and advertising. This advertisement appeared in 1916.

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes as seen in the Kansas City Star. You can see how the prices for Rosine's perfumes dropped


Perfumes:

• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract....Originally $7.50... Now  $4.69 
• Rosine's Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $14.00... Now $7.35 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $2.50... Now$1.00 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $3.50...Now $1.79 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $18.00... Now  $9.95 
• Rosine's Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $3.50... Now  $1.79 
• Rosine's Chypre Extract ......Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 
• Rosine’s Jasmin Extract ..... Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 

Powders:

• Rosine’s Dusting Powder ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—tin container ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—glass container ..Originally $1.09...  Now 79c

Rosine Amphora Perfume Bottles

Two examples of Rosine's perfume bottles, for unknown perfumes. Photos by Piasa.

Painted bottle, created by Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel. Stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: crown bindweed Nattier blue and blue and white wisteria climbing foliage interspersed black. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange surrounded by a navy blue silk thread. Height: 13 cm. Lacking stopper.

Perfume bottle, creating the Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel.

Exotic stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: long palmate leaves green and yellow banana stems and exotic flowers yellow ocher. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange; cork drip-drip tin topped with a screw-down crown. Height: 15 cm. Small crown stopper.

Rosine Tester Rack for Perfumes

photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

1920s Rosine perfume tester for the following perfumes:

• Maharadjah
• Qui-es-tu?
• Nuit de Chin
• Hahna
• Toute la Foret
• Coupe d'Or

6 bottles and dauber-stoppers, clear glass, labels, plastic and metal holder.  Length 8 1/2 in.