Sang de France by Rosine c1915

Paul Poiret's creation of the perfume "Sang de France" in 1915 was born out of a deeply personal tragedy—the passing of his daughter Rosine earlier that year. As a renowned figure in the fashion and perfume industry, Poiret sought to memorialize his daughter's memory with a fragrance housed in a distinctive red crystal bottle shaped like a stylized human heart. This design choice was laden with symbolism, representing Poiret's enduring love for Rosine and perhaps alluding to the profound emotions of wartime, where the color red often evoked both love and the sacrifice of bloodshed.

Adding to the bottle's poignant design was a frosted glass stopper fashioned in the shape of angel's wings. This element symbolized Poiret's hope that Rosine had found peace in heaven, transformed into an angel, and conveyed his heartfelt wish for her eternal happiness. Together, these elements—the heart-shaped bottle and angelic wings stopper—transformed "Sang de France" into more than just a perfume; it became a profound memorial to Poiret's grief and his deep personal loss.

The launch of "Sang de France" in 1915 occurred amidst the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by immense national turmoil and sacrifice in France. The name itself, translating to "Blood of France," held significant patriotic connotations, resonating deeply with a population grappling with the devastating effects of war. For French citizens, particularly women who found themselves shouldering new responsibilities and mourning the loss of loved ones, "Sang de France" offered not just a fragrance, but a poignant connection to the collective spirit of resilience and sacrifice.

However, the perfume's release was reportedly met with resistance from authorities, possibly due to sensitivities surrounding wartime imagery and emotions. This reaction underscored the complex interplay between personal expression and societal expectations during such a solemn period.

In summary, "Sang de France" by Rosine stands as a testament to Paul Poiret's personal grief and artistic expression amidst the turmoil of World War I. Through its symbolic design and evocative name, the perfume encapsulated themes of love, loss, and hope, resonating deeply with a nation navigating the profound challenges of wartime.

Fragrance Composition:

I have no published notes on this perfume.

Bottle:

The iconic bottle design of Paul Poiret's "Sang de France," featuring a red crystal heart-shaped container with a stopper crafted in the form of angel's wings, later found new life in his perfume "Coeur en Folie." This distinctive design, which symbolized Poiret's profound emotions and aspirations, was crafted at the renowned Atelier Martine.

Atelier Martine, known for its craftsmanship and artistic finesse, played a crucial role in bringing Poiret's vision to life. The workshop's expertise in creating intricate and visually striking pieces ensured that the bottles for both "Sang de France" and "Coeur en Folie" were not just vessels for fragrance but also artistic expressions in their own right.

The reuse of this symbolic bottle design for "Coeur en Folie" underscores Poiret's desire to carry forward the emotional resonance and aesthetic appeal of his earlier creation. It allowed him to continue honoring his daughter's memory and his artistic vision through a design that had already become emblematic of his style and sentiments.

Thus, the legacy of Poiret's heartfelt tribute to Rosine, embodied in the red crystal heart bottle with angel's wings stopper, extended beyond "Sang de France" to enrich the presentation of subsequent perfumes like "Coeur en Folie," showcasing continuity in design and a timeless connection to Poiret's personal and artistic journey.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 1916.


Harper's Bazaar, 1916:

"Poiret, I hear has been forced to withdraw his new perfume Sang de France from the market.

 

The authorities took exception to the bottle, which was in the shape of a heart; to the colour of the extract which was blood red; and to the name which brutally emphasized conditions as they are to-day in France."

The excerpt from Harper's Bazaar in 1916 highlights the controversy surrounding Paul Poiret's perfume "Sang de France" during World War I. Despite its deeply personal origins as a tribute to his late daughter Rosine and a symbol of patriotism, the perfume faced scrutiny and was ultimately withdrawn from the market.

The authorities objected to several aspects of the perfume. Firstly, the bottle itself, shaped like a heart, was seen as provocative. Hearts traditionally symbolize love and emotions, but in this context, during wartime, the heart-shaped bottle may have been interpreted as stirring up sensitive feelings or exploiting national sentiment.

Secondly, the color of the perfume extract was described as blood red. This choice of color, while potentially symbolizing sacrifice and patriotism, could also have been viewed as too stark or unsettling during a time of war, where the realities of bloodshed were all too present.

Lastly, the name "Sang de France" ("Blood of France") itself was seen as blunt and potentially insensitive. By emphasizing the stark conditions in France at that time—likely referring to the harsh realities of war—the name may have been deemed too explicit or politically charged for public consumption.

In summary, despite Poiret's intentions to honor his daughter and express solidarity with his country through "Sang de France," the perfume's bottle shape, color, and name sparked controversy with authorities who sought to maintain a delicate balance of morale and sensitivity during wartime. This episode underscores the complexities of artistic expression and public perception during periods of national crisis.

Today, the iconic red crystal heart-shaped bottle with angel's wings stopper, originally designed for Paul Poiret's perfume "Sang de France," has become highly coveted among collectors of Rosine's perfumes. Despite its controversial withdrawal from the market during World War I, this bottle design has achieved a revered status.

Collectors value the bottle not only for its rarity but also for its historical significance and artistic appeal. Its association with Poiret's personal tribute to his daughter Rosine, combined with its symbolic representation of love, loss, and hope amidst wartime, adds layers of meaning that transcend its functional purpose as a perfume container.

Due to its scarcity, finding the "Sang de France" bottle in good condition can command high prices in the collectibles market. Collectors are advised to seize the opportunity to acquire one when it presents itself, recognizing its value as both a tangible piece of perfume history and a poignant artifact of early 20th-century French artistry and emotion.