D’où viens-tu? by Rosine c1925

The year 1925, when "D’où viens-tu?" by Rosine was launched, falls within the vibrant and transformative period of the Roaring Twenties. This era was characterized by significant social, cultural, and economic changes in the aftermath of World War I. Economically, many Western countries experienced a boom, leading to greater consumerism and the emergence of a modern lifestyle. Culturally, the 1920s saw the rise of the Jazz Age, with jazz music becoming immensely popular, alongside a flourishing of artistic and literary movements such as Art Deco, Surrealism, and Modernism. Additionally, women's roles were changing, with the flapper movement symbolizing their newfound social freedoms, challenging traditional roles and embracing a more liberated and fashionable lifestyle. Technological advancements also made luxury goods more accessible, contributing to the decade’s dynamic nature.

"D’où viens-tu?", pronounced "Doo vyan tew", translates to "Where do you come from?" and is an appropriate name for a perfume for several reasons. Firstly, it evokes a sense of mystery and intrigue, appealing qualities in a fragrance, as scents often carry an air of the exotic and the unknown. This name also fosters an emotional connection, prompting users to think about memories, journeys, or places associated with the scent, thereby enhancing the personal experience of wearing the perfume. Additionally, the romantic and poetic nature of the name, possibly referencing a song, adds a layer of charm and sophistication, making the perfume feel more special and evocative.

Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer known for his artistic sensibility, likely chose the name "D’où viens-tu?" for its cultural and personal resonance. Poiret often integrated various art forms, including music, into his work, and using song lyrics for his perfumes aligns with his overall aesthetic vision. In the cultural context of the 1920s, music, especially French chansons, played a significant role in daily life and popular culture, and by referencing a song, Poiret connects the perfume to this cultural zeitgeist. Additionally, naming his perfumes after song lyrics could be seen as Poiret’s personal signature, distinguishing his products in the competitive world of fashion and fragrance.

1925 by Rosine c1925

The perfume "1925" by Rosine, launched on the day of the opening of the 1925 Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris, was deeply intertwined with the cultural and artistic milieu of the time. The 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes was a landmark event that defined the Art Deco movement, showcasing modern and innovative designs that emphasized luxury, elegance, and a forward-looking aesthetic. This exposition not only celebrated the latest in decorative arts but also set the tone for fashion, design, and lifestyle in the mid-1920s.

Naming the perfume "1925" was a strategic and evocative choice. Paul Poiret, a pioneering fashion designer and the creative mind behind Rosine, understood the importance of branding and the power of cultural references. By christening the perfume "1925," Poiret linked it directly to the zeitgeist of the era, encapsulating the modernity and sophistication that the exposition represented. The name "1925" would have resonated with contemporary women who were captivated by the excitement and innovation of the Art Deco movement. It symbolized not just a year, but an entire cultural and aesthetic revolution, appealing to those who wished to align themselves with the cutting-edge trends and the glamorous lifestyle of the time.

Women of the 1920s, especially those attending or aware of the Paris exposition, would likely have felt a strong connection to a perfume named "1925." It represented a shared cultural moment, a year marked by significant advancements in art and design. The name alone would have evoked images of sleek, geometric patterns, luxurious materials, and the bold, modern woman. Wearing "1925" would have been akin to wearing a piece of the era’s spirit, an olfactory symbol of contemporary sophistication and elegance.

Sang de France by Rosine c1915

Paul Poiret's creation of the perfume "Sang de France" in 1915 was born out of a deeply personal tragedy—the passing of his daughter Rosine earlier that year. As a renowned figure in the fashion and perfume industry, Poiret sought to memorialize his daughter's memory with a fragrance housed in a distinctive red crystal bottle shaped like a stylized human heart. This design choice was laden with symbolism, representing Poiret's enduring love for Rosine and perhaps alluding to the profound emotions of wartime, where the color red often evoked both love and the sacrifice of bloodshed.

Adding to the bottle's poignant design was a frosted glass stopper fashioned in the shape of angel's wings. This element symbolized Poiret's hope that Rosine had found peace in heaven, transformed into an angel, and conveyed his heartfelt wish for her eternal happiness. Together, these elements—the heart-shaped bottle and angelic wings stopper—transformed "Sang de France" into more than just a perfume; it became a profound memorial to Poiret's grief and his deep personal loss.

The launch of "Sang de France" in 1915 occurred amidst the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by immense national turmoil and sacrifice in France. The name itself, translating to "Blood of France," held significant patriotic connotations, resonating deeply with a population grappling with the devastating effects of war. For French citizens, particularly women who found themselves shouldering new responsibilities and mourning the loss of loved ones, "Sang de France" offered not just a fragrance, but a poignant connection to the collective spirit of resilience and sacrifice.

However, the perfume's release was reportedly met with resistance from authorities, possibly due to sensitivities surrounding wartime imagery and emotions. This reaction underscored the complex interplay between personal expression and societal expectations during such a solemn period.

In summary, "Sang de France" by Rosine stands as a testament to Paul Poiret's personal grief and artistic expression amidst the turmoil of World War I. Through its symbolic design and evocative name, the perfume encapsulated themes of love, loss, and hope, resonating deeply with a nation navigating the profound challenges of wartime.

Spirit of Saint-Louis by Rosine c1927

In 1927, the year Spirit of Saint-Louis perfume was launched by Paul Poiret, the world was captivated by the achievements in aviation, particularly Charles Lindbergh's groundbreaking transatlantic flight. This period marked a zenith in early aviation, where daring pilots were pushing the boundaries of what was considered possible. Transatlantic flights were still rare and risky endeavors, embodying the spirit of adventure, courage, and technological progress.

The name "Spirit of Saint-Louis" was not only a direct homage to Lindbergh's custom-built aircraft but also a symbol of the spirit of adventure and ambition that characterized the era. Lindbergh's feat captured the imagination of people worldwide, symbolizing the triumph of human will and ingenuity over vast distances and challenging conditions. By naming his perfume after this iconic aircraft, Paul Poiret was tapping into the zeitgeist of the time, associating his fragrance with notions of daring, freedom, and modernity.

 

For American women, the perfume would have held significant appeal as it celebrated an American hero and an achievement that brought global acclaim to the United States. Lindbergh's flight represented a moment of national pride and a breaking of barriers, resonating deeply with American women who were increasingly asserting independence and breaking away from traditional roles.

On the other hand, for French women, the perfume would have represented a touch of exoticism and adventure associated with transatlantic flights. France, as a hub of fashion and culture, would have appreciated the symbolism of Lindbergh's achievement and the daring spirit it embodied. The perfume thus bridged the gap between American and French sensibilities, appealing to both as a symbol of modernity and progress.

In essence, Spirit of Saint- Louis perfume encapsulated the spirit of its time—celebrating innovation, courage, and the thrill of breaking new ground. By paying tribute to Charles Lindbergh and his historic flight, Paul Poiret ensured that his fragrance not only captured the essence of the era but also resonated deeply with the aspirations and ideals of women on both sides of the Atlantic. It became a symbol of modern femininity infused with the adventurous spirit of the age of aviation.

Mam'zelle Victoire by Rosine c1915

The perfume "Mam'zelle Victoire" by Rosine was launched in 1915, during a tumultuous period in world history. The First World War had already begun, with the conflict starting in July 1914. By 1915, the war had escalated into a full-scale global conflict involving many of the world's great powers. Europe was engulfed in trench warfare, with battles causing massive casualties and widespread devastation.

During this time, France was deeply involved in the war effort. The country was one of the major fronts of the war, with battles such as the Second Battle of Ypres and the Battle of Loos taking place in 1915. The French government and its people were fully mobilized, both on the home front and the battlefields. Nationalism and patriotic fervor were high, as France sought to defend itself against German aggression and recover occupied territories.

The name "Mam'zelle Victoire," translating to "Miss Victory," was particularly appropriate for a perfume launched during this period. It conveyed a sense of optimism and hope for victory in a time of great uncertainty and hardship. Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer and perfumer, likely chose this name to resonate with the national sentiment and to boost morale. The name combined a youthful and charming term of endearment, "Mam'zelle" (a casual form of "Mademoiselle"), with the powerful and aspirational word "Victoire" (Victory), embodying the spirit of resilience and triumph.

The perfume, and its name, would have strongly resonated with women of the period. Women were playing crucial roles in the war effort, both in France and abroad, taking on jobs and responsibilities traditionally held by men who were now at the front. The name "Mam'zelle Victoire" would have been a source of inspiration, symbolizing their contribution to the eventual success and the positive future they were fighting for.

The images and feelings evoked by "Mam'zelle Victoire" are those of patriotism, strength, and hope. The symbolism of the French Republic—tricolor flags, the rooster, cockade, and revolutionary clothing—alongside the central image of Marianne, who represents liberty and reason, would have been particularly meaningful to French women. These symbols reinforced their national identity and unity during a time of crisis, serving as a reminder of what they were defending.

It is said that Georges Lepape collaborated with Poiret on the perfume bottle and packaging design and, of course, completed all the artwork for the labelling and advertising. This advertisement appeared in 1916.

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes as seen in the Kansas City Star. You can see how the prices for Rosine's perfumes dropped


Perfumes:

• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract....Originally $7.50... Now  $4.69 
• Rosine's Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $14.00... Now $7.35 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $2.50... Now$1.00 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $3.50...Now $1.79 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $18.00... Now  $9.95 
• Rosine's Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $3.50... Now  $1.79 
• Rosine's Chypre Extract ......Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 
• Rosine’s Jasmin Extract ..... Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 

Powders:

• Rosine’s Dusting Powder ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—tin container ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—glass container ..Originally $1.09...  Now 79c

Paul Poiret in the USA

Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 17, 1922:

"Paul Poiret, the world famous designer of apparel for women, who manufactures at Courbevoie, France, a line of perfumes under the name of Rosine, in honor of his daughter, Rosine arrived on the France, August 26 ,and sailed for home on the Paris, September 13, after spending a few weeks in the United States. 

M. Poiret spent considerable time with Maurice Levy, 12 W. 41st street, New York City, who handles the Rosine line of perfumes in the United States. M. Poiret maintains an art school and his students decorate and design containers and bottles in which his perfumes are sold. The working hours of the factory are from 8 am to 7 pm and luncheon and wine are served to all employes. 

M. Poiret states that he is trying to work along new lines and employs novel aromatic products that give a new note to his perfumes."

Rosine Amphora Perfume Bottles

Two examples of Rosine's perfume bottles, for unknown perfumes. Photos by Piasa.

Painted bottle, created by Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel. Stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: crown bindweed Nattier blue and blue and white wisteria climbing foliage interspersed black. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange surrounded by a navy blue silk thread. Height: 13 cm. Lacking stopper.

Perfume bottle, creating the Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel.

Exotic stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: long palmate leaves green and yellow banana stems and exotic flowers yellow ocher. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange; cork drip-drip tin topped with a screw-down crown. Height: 15 cm. Small crown stopper.

Rosine Tester Rack for Perfumes

photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

1920s Rosine perfume tester for the following perfumes:

• Maharadjah
• Qui-es-tu?
• Nuit de Chin
• Hahna
• Toute la Foret
• Coupe d'Or

6 bottles and dauber-stoppers, clear glass, labels, plastic and metal holder.  Length 8 1/2 in.

Nuit Persane c1911 and Nuit de Chine by Rosine c1912

Nuit Persane by Rosine: launched in 1911.