The year 1921 was a period marked by significant social and cultural transformations. The world was emerging from the devastation of World War I, and societies were experiencing a shift towards modernity and a break from traditional norms. The Roaring Twenties had begun, characterized by economic prosperity, technological advancements, and a flourishing of arts and culture. Jazz music, Art Deco design, and flapper fashion became symbols of this new era. The film industry was booming, with Hollywood establishing itself as the heart of cinema. Silent films were at their peak, with stars like Rudolph Valentino and Alla Nazimova captivating audiences worldwide.
On the stage, theater and performance art were also undergoing changes. There was a fascination with exoticism and orientalism, reflecting a broader trend of exploring and romanticizing cultures considered mysterious and luxurious by Western standards. This was the backdrop against which the perfume Maharadjah by Rosine was launched. The name "Maharadjah" evokes images of opulence, grandeur, and exotic royalty, perfectly in line with the 1920s' penchant for glamour and extravagance. A Maharajah is an Indian prince, often associated with immense wealth and splendor, making it an ideal moniker for a perfume intended to convey luxury and allure.
Paul Poiret, the designer behind this perfume, was known for his pioneering contributions to fashion, particularly his embrace of oriental influences. Poiret’s designs were characterized by their bold use of color, intricate patterns, and flowing silhouettes, all inspired by Middle Eastern, Indian, and Asian aesthetics. His interest in orientalism was evident in his fashion shows and costumes, which often featured turbans, harem pants, and kimono-style dresses. Poiret's work on the costumes for the play "The Prince Otherc" by Henri Lavedan, starring Edouard de Max as the Maharaja, further cemented his connection to these themes.
Choosing the name Maharadjah for his perfume was a natural extension of Poiret's artistic vision. It encapsulated the exotic allure and sophistication that he aimed to infuse into his creations. The perfume’s association with famous personalities like Nazimova and Rudolph Valentino, both icons of the silent film era known for their dramatic and often exotic roles, added to its mystique and desirability. Thus, Maharadjah by Rosine was not just a fragrance; it was a reflection of the cultural zeitgeist of the early 1920s, a period enamored with the opulent and the exotic, perfectly encapsulated in Paul Poiret's visionary artistry.
A Fur Perfume?:
In the 1920s, wearing perfume on furs was a fashionable practice among affluent women, and there were several reasons why this was appealing and desirable.
Firstly, furs were a symbol of luxury and status. They were expensive and often worn by the elite, making them an ideal canvas for showcasing one's sophistication and refinement. By applying perfume to furs, a woman could enhance the luxurious experience of wearing them, adding an olfactory dimension to the visual and tactile richness of the fur. This layering of sensory pleasures—sight, touch, and smell—created an overall impression of opulence.
Secondly, the natural properties of fur made it an excellent medium for holding and diffusing scent. Fur fibers can retain fragrances longer than fabrics, allowing the scent to linger and subtly emanate from the wearer throughout the day or evening. This extended release of the perfume added an element of allure and mystique, as the scent would gently waft around the wearer, creating an enchanting aura.
Moreover, the notion of scent blending with the fur pelt to become "most alluring" speaks to the intimate and personal nature of wearing perfume. Furs, often worn close to the skin and around the face, would mix with the body's natural warmth, enhancing the fragrance and making it more personal and unique. This intimate diffusion could make the scent seem more a part of the wearer, rather than an external addition.
The specific mention of "Maharadjah" being created to be worn on furs highlights the attention to detail in perfumery during that era. Perfume makers like Rosine would craft scents that complemented the luxurious lifestyle of their clientele, ensuring that the fragrance would interact harmoniously with high-end materials like fur. By marketing the perfume as being especially suited for furs, Rosine appealed to the desires of fashionable women who sought to embody elegance in every aspect of their appearance.
In essence, wearing perfume on furs in the 1920s was about enhancing the overall sensory experience of luxury. It added a layer of sophistication and allure, making the act of wearing fur even more glamorous and desirable.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an spicy, oriental fragrance for women. It "is especially created to be worn on furs, the scent blends with the fur pelt, and is most alluring" and was later described in a 1936 ad as "a mysterious Oriental fragrance, particularly lovely for fur."
- Top notes: lotus buds, citrus
- middle notes: spices, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, incense
- Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli
It was advertised as "the splendor of a procession in Nepal" and possessing "the warm and captivating scent of an opulent Oriental sovereign."
Scent Profile:
As you step through the ornate gates of the Maharadjah's palace, a wave of exquisite scents envelops you, instantly transporting you to a realm of opulence and exotic beauty. The palace, a marvel of intricate architecture with gilded domes and vibrant tapestries, is surrounded by lush gardens that embrace you with their verdant splendor.
The first scents to greet you are delicate lotus buds and the fresh, zesty notes of citrus. The lotus buds evoke serene lotus ponds scattered throughout the gardens, their soft, slightly sweet fragrance creating an aura of calm and tranquility. Meanwhile, the citrus notes of lemon and neroli cut through the air with their sharp, clean aroma, reminiscent of sun-drenched groves around the palace, invigorating your senses with their brightness.
As you wander deeper, a warm, spicy sweetness follows you, as if wafting from the palace kitchens where spiced delicacies are being prepared. Cinnamon adds a rich, comforting depth to the initial freshness, while the spicy, clove-like scent of carnation blooms brings a floral yet peppery touch, creating a complex and intriguing aroma that lingers enticingly.
Moving into the heart of the gardens, you are surrounded by the rich, heady fragrance of narcissus. Its narcotic sweetness is intoxicating, capturing the lush beauty of the floral displays. The exotic, creamy scent of ylang ylang adds a lush, tropical quality, evoking the opulence of the Maharadjah's tropical retreats. The deep, resinous aroma of myrrh brings a sense of ancient ritual and mysticism, its warm, balsamic, slightly smoky scent reminiscent of sacred ceremonies in hidden temple chambers.
A complex blend of spices—perhaps cardamom, cloves, and nutmeg—mingles with the floral notes, adding layers of warmth and piquancy. The timeless, romantic scents of rose and jasmine interweave, symbolizing the palace gardens in full bloom, their sweet, rich florals lending a soft, sensual touch. Sweet, honeyed orange blossom combined with rich, smoky incense creates a harmonious balance, as if you are standing near an ornate altar adorned with burning incense and fresh blossoms.
As the day progresses, the fragrance deepens, and the animalic, musky tones of castoreum and civet emerge, adding an element of untamed luxury. The clean, smooth scent of musk underpins the fragrance, providing a soft, skin-like warmth that is both comforting and seductive. The sweet, resinous aroma of benzoin and the marine, slightly salty scent of ambergris add richness and depth, evoking the opulent, treasure-filled chambers of the palace.
Creamy vanilla and the slightly nutty, sweet scent of tonka bean create a comforting, gourmand layer, indulgent and inviting. Earthy, green oakmoss and smoky, woody vetiver bring a grounding element, reminding you of the verdant gardens and rugged landscapes surrounding the palace. Finally, the deep, resinous aroma of labdanum, the creamy, woody scent of sandalwood, and the earthy, sweet-spicy tones of patchouli provide a warm, lingering finish. They encapsulate the grandeur and mystery of the Maharadjah’s realm, leaving a lasting impression of exotic splendor.
In this magical setting, your senses are continuously captivated. You feel the soft, luxurious textures of silk and velvet against your skin, the cool, polished marble beneath your feet, and the gentle caress of a warm breeze. You taste exotic fruits and spiced delicacies, savoring the complex flavors that dance on your palate. Your eyes feast on the vibrant colors and intricate designs of the palace and gardens, while your ears are serenaded by the distant melodies of traditional music and the gentle rustling of leaves and water. This multifaceted sensory experience, rich in both visual and olfactory beauty, encapsulates the essence of "Maharadjah" by Rosine, creating an immersive journey through a world of timeless elegance and exotic allure.
Bottles:
Adorning the neck of the bottle is a gold metallic passementerie tassel, intricately tied and adding a touch of regal sophistication. This decorative element not only enhances the bottle's aesthetic appeal but also hints at the opulence within, promising an aromatic experience as luxurious as its packaging. When placed on its stand, the total height reaches four inches, making it a compact yet commanding presence on any vanity.
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The presentation box is a work of art in itself, designed to complement and elevate the bottle it houses. Its black background is accented with splotches of gold, creating a dynamic visual effect that draws the eye. The middle and bottom of the box feature a tapestry of wavy stripes in gold and bronze, designed in a fine moiré pattern interwoven with gold and white threads. This intricate design gives the box a texture and richness that mirrors the luxurious experience of the perfume inside.
Inside the box, the perfume bottle is cradled on a dark blue velvet base, adding a layer of plush sophistication. The base is designed with four concentric steps that taper toward the top, providing a throne-like pedestal for the bottle. This thoughtful design not only secures the bottle but also presents it as a precious object, inviting admiration and desire.
The entire presentation, from the crystal bottle to the intricate box, embodies the essence of the Maharadjah's parfum—a fragrance steeped in mystery, sensuality, and opulence. It is not merely a perfume but a statement piece, a testament to the timeless elegance and exotic allure that defines the Maharadjah's world.
Other bottles:
A Paul Poiret bottle design in frosted glass shaped as a "figure-8", in fine condition with rarely seen paper label. Height 7 in. Photo by Mastro Auctions.
Photo by Art Francais
photo from Fiona2miniparfums
Fate of the Fragrance:
Despite its initial success, Maharadjah was discontinued in 1930, along with many of Rosine's other fragrances. The economic downturn of the Great Depression likely contributed to the decline in luxury goods sales, including high-end perfumes. As the world grappled with financial instability, the market for opulent items like Maharadjah shrank, leading to the discontinuation of these once-coveted fragrances.
Remaining stock of Maharadjah was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices, allowing it to continue being available as late as 1941. This extended availability hints at the initial volume of production and the enduring appeal of the fragrance, even in less prosperous times. Collectors and connoisseurs took advantage of these clearance sales, ensuring that the legacy of Maharadjah lived on through the bottles and their remarkable presentation.
Today, the deluxe glass bottles of Maharadjah are highly sought after by perfume bottle collectors. The combination of the crystal cylindrical design, the black glass mushroom stopper, and the green or black glass stand makes these bottles exquisite examples of early 20th-century luxury. Even more coveted are those bottles that retain their original luxurious presentation boxes. These boxes, with their black background, gold splotches, and fine moiré design, add significant historical and aesthetic value to the bottles, making them prized possessions for collectors.
The opulence and intricate craftsmanship of Maharadjah's packaging continue to captivate collectors, ensuring that the fragrance's legacy endures. The story of Maharadjah reflects a time of elegance and extravagance, preserved in these beautiful artifacts from an era when luxury and refinement were paramount.
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