The launch of Le Minaret by Rosine in 1913 marked a significant period in the history of both perfumery and the arts. This was a time of immense cultural dynamism, where the worlds of fashion, dance, and fragrance intertwined to create new sensory experiences. The early 20th century was characterized by the Art Nouveau movement, with its emphasis on organic forms, intricate designs, and a celebration of exoticism from distant lands.
The name "Le Minaret" would have been particularly appealing as a name for a perfume during this period. A minaret, typically a tall spire or tower associated with mosques, evokes images of elegance, height, and exotic allure. In the context of perfumery, this name suggests a fragrance that is ethereal, uplifting, and perhaps imbued with elements of mystery and exoticism. It hints at a scent that transports the wearer to distant, romantic landscapes where ornate architecture meets fragrant gardens.
Moreover, the association with Jacques Richepin’s ballet "Le Minaret," for which Paul Poiret designed costumes, adds another layer of allure. Richepin's ballet would have been a spectacle of artistry and imagination, blending music, dance, and visual aesthetics into a harmonious whole. Naming a perfume after such a collaborative and creative endeavor aligns it with the avant-garde spirit of the time, where boundaries between different forms of artistic expression were blurred.
In essence, "Le Minaret" as a perfume name encapsulates the zeitgeist of the early 20th century, when fragrances were not merely scents but experiences that intertwined with the arts and cultural currents of the era. It invites the wearer to envision a world where fragrance is not just a personal adornment but a gateway to dreams, fantasies, and the beauty of artistic collaboration.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is a warm, sultry oriental perfume for women.
- Top notes: citrus, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, neroli, marigold
- Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, orris
- Base notes: tonka bean, castoreum, benzoin, myrrh, ambergris, musk, opoponax, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss, incense, labdanum, vetiver
"Subtle and sweet, luring as the distant strumming of guitars or the monotone song of some invisible flute. There it is, rising, reaching all around and, slowly conquered by the charm, enslaved by this mysterious guide. It seems as if you have stepped across the threshold of I don't know which enchanted palace. It is dark, sultry. Outdoors, the midday sun, the deserted streets, the trees swooning from the heat. But windows and doors remain closed. At the far end of the green and blue galleries, everyone is sleeping. Then there is a courtyard. mosaics, a pool of limpid water. And everywhere floats the heady and disturbing perfume, the perfume of myrrh and carnation from India. No human voices, no resounding steps on the tiles. We could think we are in the palace of the sleeping beauty, if not for the weak sound of the fountains and the invisible flute sighing, melancholic, lone."
"It's a courtyard, mosaics, a pool of clear water. And everywhere floats the heady and disturbing perfume, perfume of myrrh, and marigold. No human voice, no footsteps echoing on the tiles. It's like being in the castle of "Sleeping Beauty" if it weren't for the light noise of the fountains and the invisible flute which sighs, melancholy and solitary."
Scent Profile:
Top notes:
Picture yourself amidst the vibrant energy of an Arabian bazaar, where the air is filled with the lively chatter of merchants and the tantalizing aromas of exotic spices and fruits. The top notes of "Le Minaret" open with a burst of citrus, like the sharp, bright call of a muezzin echoing through the bustling marketplace from the distant minaret. This citrusy freshness evokes the sensation of biting into a ripe orange or lemon, its zestiness lingering in the air. As you navigate deeper into the labyrinthine alleys, the warm spices of cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg unfold, their aromatic melodies blending with the distant echoes of the muezzin's hauntingly beautiful call. Neroli and marigold add a floral sweetness that dances through the spice-laden atmosphere, creating an olfactory symphony that resonates with both vitality and tradition.
Middle notes:
Transitioning from the lively bazaar, imagine stepping into a serene garden surrounding the majestic minaret, where the fragrance of "Le Minaret" begins to bloom like a fragrant oasis. Here, amidst the tranquility, the middle notes unfurl with the richness of carnation, rose, jasmine, and orange blossom. Each flower sings its own melodious tune, their petals caressed by a gentle breeze carrying the echoes of the muezzin's call. Carnation offers a spicy floral depth, while rose and jasmine envelop you in their heady, intoxicating aromas. Orange blossom adds a citrusy sweetness that harmonizes with the earthy notes of patchouli and the powdery elegance of orris root. Together, these middle notes create a sensory tableau that transports you to a place of quiet contemplation and natural beauty, where the muezzin's voice echoes through the garden like a timeless melody.
Base notes:
As the day draws to a close and the sun sets behind the minaret, the base notes of "Le Minaret" unfold, anchoring the fragrance with a deep and lingering resonance. Picture the warm embrace of sandalwood and the comforting sweetness of vanilla, reminiscent of the evening rituals performed under the minaret's watchful gaze. Oakmoss adds a touch of green earthiness, while incense and labdanum imbue the air with a mystical, smoky aura that echoes the incantations of the muezzin's call. Benzoin, myrrh, and opoponax contribute their resinous, balsamic tones, evoking the sacredness of ancient traditions and rituals. Musk and ambergris lend a subtle animalic warmth, like the skin-warmed stones surrounding the minaret at dusk. These base notes blend seamlessly, creating a captivating and evocative fragrance that lingers on the skin like the memory of an enchanting evening spent near the minaret, where the sound of the muezzin's call intertwines with the scent of a warm, sultry oriental perfume.
In essence, "Le Minaret" by Rosine is not just a fragrance, but a sensory journey through time and place, where the aromas of an Arabian bazaar, the serenity of sumptuous gardens, and the haunting beauty of a minaret converge into a perfume that captivates the imagination and evokes a sense of timeless allure.
Bottles:
The presentation of the perfume "Le Minaret" was a masterpiece of collaboration between Paul Poiret, renowned for his avant-garde fashion designs, and Georges Lepape, a celebrated illustrator of the Art Deco era. The bottle itself was a work of art, designed to evoke the elegance and intricacy of Islamic architecture. Housed in a cylindrical tower-shaped bottle, it was adorned with gold metallic embroidery on net, reminiscent of the filigree exteriors often seen on minarets. The neck of the bottle was delicately wound with gold thread, adding to its luxurious appeal.
Topping the clear glass bottle was a gilded glass ball-shaped stopper, which not only provided a functional closure but also added to the opulence of the presentation. An exquisite touch was the tiny brass charm shaped like a minaret, suspended from the neck threads like a pendant. This charm served as a distinctive identifier for the perfume, replacing a traditional paper label. It was elegantly embossed with "Rosine" on one side and "Le Minaret" on the other, further emphasizing the perfume's association with the iconic architectural form.
Complementing the luxurious bottle, the box was crafted to mirror its unique shape. Covered in ribbed red paper, the box featured an intricate pattern printed in gold, creating a simulated moire pattern that shimmered as it caught the light. The design of the box cleverly imitated the architectural details of a minaret, with the paper label resembling a window or doorway typical of such structures. Arabic script adorned the label along with the name "Rosine Le Minaret," adding an authentic touch that reinforced the perfume's oriental inspiration.
Together, the bottle and its packaging not only housed the exquisite fragrance but also served as a visual and tactile homage to the beauty of Islamic design and the collaborative genius of Poiret and Lepape. The presentation of "Le Minaret" encapsulated the spirit of its time, where art, fashion, and fragrance converged to create a sensory experience that was both luxurious and culturally resonant.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Le Minaret" by Rosine, although discontinued around 1930, retains a mystique and allure that persists among collectors and enthusiasts of vintage perfumes. Its presence in a 1929 publication alongside other iconic Rosine fragrances illustrates its popularity and cultural significance during its era. Among a prestigious lineup including "Ambre de Venise," "Jasmin de la Riviera," and "Nuit de Chine," "Le Minaret" stood out for its exotic name and luxurious presentation.
Today, bottles of "Le Minaret" occasionally resurface on the market, often accompanied by their ornate presentation boxes and the delicate net lace coverings that adorned them. These complete sets are exceedingly rare, contributing to their high value and the avid interest they attract from collectors. The lace coverings, in particular, are fragile and prone to damage over time, making it a stroke of fortune when a bottle still retains its lace intact. The scarcity of intact bottles and boxes with their original lace underscores their status as coveted artifacts of perfume history, each one a tangible link to the artistic and olfactory legacy of early 20th-century fragrance craftsmanship.
The allure of "Le Minaret" extends beyond its scent alone; it encapsulates an era of creativity and innovation in perfumery, symbolizing the intersection of fashion, art, and luxury. For those fortunate enough to acquire a bottle with its delicate lace covering preserved, it represents not only a rare treasure but also a tangible piece of cultural heritage—a testament to the enduring appeal and timeless elegance of vintage perfumes from the House of Rosine.
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