Saturday, November 2, 2013

Sa Chambre by Rosine c1920

The launch of Sa Chambre by Rosine in 1920 marked a pivotal moment in the world of perfumery, coinciding with the dawn of the Roaring Twenties. This era was defined by a dramatic shift in societal norms and a burgeoning sense of liberation, particularly for women who were increasingly asserting their independence. Against this backdrop of cultural dynamism, Sa Chambre, meaning "Her Room" in French, captured a nuanced essence reflective of its time.

Pronounced "Sah Shahm-bruh," the name "Sa Chambre" evokes a sense of intimacy and personal sanctuary. In French, it suggests a space that is private and personal, where one can retreat and indulge in moments of self-expression. For a perfume, such a name carries connotations of sensuality, comfort, and perhaps a hint of mystery, appealing to a woman's desire for elegance and individuality.

Henri Alméras, the perfumer behind Sa Chambre, was a prominent figure in early 20th-century perfumery. His creations were renowned for their sophistication and ability to encapsulate the spirit of their era. Beyond Sa Chambre, Alméras crafted several iconic fragrances that have stood the test of time. These include Joy by Jean Patou and Le Fruit Defendue for Rosine in 1916.

Each of Alméras' creations, including Sa Chambre, reflects his mastery in blending fragrances that resonate deeply with the cultural and social milieu of their time. With its name invoking images of personal allure and intimacy, Sa Chambre would have appealed to the cosmopolitan and emancipated women of the 1920s, offering them a fragrance that embodied both elegance and the spirit of the modern age.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like?  It was classified as a woodsy floral bouquet fragrance for women. It made use of a prefab base called Miel Blanc by De Laire. Miel Blanc has a powerful honey odour, and a particularly strong peach odour is manufactured. Sa Chambre also had a low level of the C-12 MNA aldehyde which gave it facets of fresh amber, aldehydes, moss, citrus, tuberose, metallic, waxy, and coumarin.
  • Top notes: iris, honey, peach, citrus, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: May rose, Grasse jasmine, tuberose
  • Base notes: orris, incense, cedarwood, sandalwood, leather, costus, tonka, oakmoss


Scent Profile:


Imagine entering an intimate, romantic boudoir where Sa Chambre unfolds its complex bouquet, surrounded by the accoutrements of femininity. As you approach, the air is suffused with a delicate yet alluring aroma. The top notes greet you first: a blend of iris, honey, and peach. The iris lends a powdery softness, reminiscent of face powders delicately applied with a sumptuous swansdown puff, while the honey adds a rich, golden sweetness that hangs in the air like a veil of indulgence. 

The fragrance of waxy lipsticks, their subtle sweetness mingling with powdery undertones, evokes memories of beauty rituals and moments of self-care. The sight of vintage compacts and lipstick cases, their reflective surfaces catching the soft light, adds a touch of nostalgia to the ambiance. Bottles of perfume, their elegant shapes catching the light, glimmer on a vanity table.

The peach note is ripe and juicy, its fruity sweetness mingling with a subtle citrus freshness that dances lightly on your senses, much like the scent of freshly squeezed lemons used in cosmetics. Together, these notes evoke a sense of warmth and comfort, like the first rays of sunlight filtering through lace curtains onto a collection of vintage makeup brushes and mirrors.

Moving deeper into the boudoir, the middle notes emerge gracefully. May rose and Grasse jasmine bloom in full splendor, their heady floral essences enveloping you in a lush embrace. The May rose exudes a romantic, velvety aroma, reminiscent of rose-scented face creams and delicate floral waters used for beauty rituals. Grasse jasmine, known for its intense fragrance, adds a touch of sensuality, filling the room with its intoxicating floral richness. Tuberose, with its creamy, white floral scent, adds depth and allure, its presence lingering like a whispered promise in the air.

As you settle further into the boudoir, the base notes reveal themselves, grounding the fragrance with a sophisticated depth. Orris imparts a powdery, violet-like nuance, complementing the floral heart with its subtle earthiness, reminiscent of iris-scented talcum powder. Incense lends a mystical quality, its resinous aroma mingling with hints of cedarwood and sandalwood, evoking images of polished wooden furniture adorned with intricate cosmetic cases. 

As you settle further into the boudoir, the base notes reveal themselves, grounding the fragrance with a sophisticated depth. Orris imparts a powdery, violet-like nuance, complementing the floral heart with its subtle earthiness, reminiscent of iris-scented talcum powder. Incense lends a mystical quality, its resinous aroma mingling with hints of cedarwood and sandalwood, evoking images of polished wooden furniture adorned with intricate cosmetic cases. Leather adds a sensual edge, its supple richness intertwining with costus, which imparts an animalic warmth reminiscent of skin. Tonka bean brings a sweet, almond-like aroma, while oakmoss provides a touch of green freshness, like moss growing on aged stone walls.

In this romantic setting, Sa Chambre unfolds like a symphony of scents, each note harmonizing effortlessly amidst the bottles of perfume, cosmetics, and face powders. The fragrance whispers stories of love and longing, of timeless beauty and quiet moments shared in the privacy of a woman's sanctuary. It invites you to linger, to savor the complexity of its woodsy floral bouquet, and to experience the subtle interplay of emotions and sensations it evokes, much like the transformative power of cosmetics and perfumes in defining femininity and allure.

Bottle:






 


The bottle of Sa Chambre is adorned with an elegant label, described as "L'etiquette est imprimee en rose, cerise et argent avec reserves blanches," which translates to "The label is printed in pink, cherry, and silver with white reserves." This delicate color palette suggests a design of refined taste and sophistication, perfectly suited to the romantic and intimate essence of the fragrance.

The imagery on the label depicts an evocative scene: the open curtains of a window. This imagery symbolizes a glimpse into a private sanctuary, a woman's boudoir, where curtains are drawn aside to reveal a space of beauty and intimacy. The soft hues of pink and cherry evoke feelings of femininity and elegance, while silver accents add a touch of glamour and luxury.

This visual representation on the bottle not only complements the fragrance's name, "Sa Chambre" (Her Room), but also reinforces the concept of a personal retreat where one can indulge in moments of self-care and allure. It invites the imagination to envision the ambiance of a softly lit room, adorned with lace curtains gently swaying in a breeze, creating an atmosphere that is both serene and enchanting.





Note: the Parfum de Rosine pictured here is part of the GS Collection and have been kindly made available to the Grasse Internazionale Museum of Perfumery as part of the exhibition Paul Poiret (1879-1944) Couturier Parfumeur.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Sa Chambre, a fragrance created by Henri Alméras for Rosine, remained available for purchase up until at least 1929, as documented in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico. This perfume was part of a distinguished lineup of Rosine creations that included Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, Chez Poiret, Chypre des Isles, Coeur en Folie, Connais Tu le Pays?, Hahna, Jasmin de la Riviera, Le Balcon, Le Bosquet d'Apollon, Le Coup d'Or, Le Fruit Defendu, La Rose de Rosine, Maharadjah, 1935, Nuit de Chine, Pierrot, Qui Es-Tu?, Sakya Mouni, and Toute la Foret.

This listing suggests Sa Chambre was among the enduring perfumes of its time, cherished alongside a range of fragrances that catered to varied tastes and occasions. Its inclusion in such a prestigious catalog highlights its popularity and the esteem in which it was held during the era of its availability. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, Sa Chambre's presence in 1929 underscores its lasting impact as a timeless olfactory creation from the House of Rosine.


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