Espalier Du Roy by Rosine c1911

In 1911, when Paul Poiret launched his perfume "Espalier du Roy," the world was amidst the Belle Époque era, a period characterized by optimism, elegance, and cultural refinement in Europe. This was a time of flourishing arts, technological progress, and social change, particularly in fashion and fragrance.

Pronounced as "Es-pahl-yay Dyu Rwah,"  the name "Espalier du Roy," translating to "Espalier of the King," evokes a sense of luxury and regality. An espalier is a horticultural technique where fruit trees or shrubs are trained to grow flat against a support structure, often a wall or lattice, through meticulous pruning and shaping. This method not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the plants but also optimizes their fruit production or ornamental beauty.

Paul Poiret, a visionary in the world of fashion and lifestyle, chose to name his perfume after this technique likely due to its association with elegance, artistry, and the cultivated beauty found in the gardens of royalty and the elite. Poiret himself had espaliers in his garden, reflecting his personal appreciation for nature's artistry and meticulous cultivation.

In the context of perfume, the name "Espalier du Roy" suggests a fragrance that embodies sophistication, refinement, and perhaps a touch of natural allure. Perfumes during the Edwardian era were often floral or oriental, catering to the romantic and elegant sensibilities of women of that time. The idea of a perfume named after a technique that transforms plants into living artworks would have likely appealed to the Edwardian woman's appreciation for beauty and refinement.

The Edwardian era, overlapping with the Belle Époque, is indeed known for its opulence and cultural refinement, where fashion, art, and lifestyle reflected an optimistic and indulgent spirit. Images of this era conjure up visions of lavish soirées, intricate fashion designs, and a society that embraced both tradition and modernity.

In summary, "Espalier du Roy" by Rosine, launched in 1911, encapsulates the spirit of its time through its name, evoking images of controlled elegance, natural beauty crafted into art, and the refined tastes of the Belle Époque era, appealing to the sophisticated women who adorned themselves with the luxuries of the day.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this composition, however, I have created a possible profile by including various plants that use the espalier technique, along with notes used by Poiret in his other perfumes, and the usual fixatives for base notes.

• Top notes: apple, pear, fig, peach, plum, lemon, lavender
• Middle notes: geranium, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, lilac, gardenia, magnolia
• Base notes: ambergris, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, cedar

Scent Profile:

As I stroll through the lush gardens of the Versailles palace, my senses are immersed in the opulence and splendor of the 18th-century surroundings. The walls are covered with espaliers of fruits and flowers, meticulously arranged to create a living tapestry of color and fragrance. The dampened earth beneath my feet, rich with moss and grasses, exudes a deep, verdant aroma, while the gentle sound of fountains trickling in the background adds a serene melody to the atmosphere. Overhead, birds alight on the trees, their delicate songs mingling with the rustling leaves. Every breath I take is filled with the intoxicating scents of the garden, each note unfolding like a sensory symphony.

As I begin my walk, the air is filled with the crisp, refreshing scent of apples and pears, their fruity sweetness mingling with the slightly honeyed aroma of ripe figs. The citrusy zest of oranges and lemons cuts through the sweetness, adding a bright, invigorating sparkle that awakens my senses. I can almost taste the tangy juiciness on my tongue, a delightful contrast to the softer, velvety scent of peaches and plums. The calming essence of lavender weaves through these fruity notes, its soothing floral undertones adding a layer of tranquility to the vibrant bouquet.

Venturing deeper into the garden, the floral heart of the fragrance blooms around me. The elegant scent of geraniums, with their slightly minty, rosy aroma, mingles with the classic, rich fragrance of roses, each petal seemingly dipped in morning dew. Jasmine's intoxicating, heady scent wafts through the air, its exotic sweetness blending seamlessly with the delicate, fresh notes of orange blossom. Lilac adds a soft, powdery touch, reminiscent of the first blooms of spring, while gardenia's creamy, opulent fragrance wraps me in a luxurious embrace. Magnolia, with its lemony, floral essence, brings a fresh, sophisticated note that ties all these flowers together into a harmonious medley.

As the day wanes and I wander towards the more shaded, secluded parts of the garden, the deeper, more complex base notes begin to emerge. The warm, marine scent of ambergris combines with the sensual, animalic undertones of musk, creating a foundation that is both mysterious and alluring. The woody richness of sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth depth, while oakmoss brings an earthy, slightly bitter edge that evokes the damp, shaded earth beneath the trees. Vetiver's grassy, smoky aroma intertwines with the resinous, spicy notes of patchouli, grounding the fragrance with a sense of rugged elegance. Finally, the dry, woody scent of cedar adds a final touch of sophistication, like the grand, ancient trees that have stood sentinel over these gardens for centuries.

In this verdant paradise, I am surrounded by a symphony of scents, each one telling a story of the garden's timeless beauty and the rich, fragrant history of Versailles. The interplay of fruity, floral, and woody notes creates an immersive experience that is both deeply nostalgic and enchantingly fresh, capturing the essence of an 18th-century stroll through the palace gardens.

Bottle:

The parfum for Espalier du Roy was housed in a striking crystal flacon meticulously crafted in France by Baccarat. Its design was both functional and elegant, featuring an upright, narrow shape with a rectangular base. The bottle was ingeniously fitted with a small ground glass inner stopper, cleverly capped with a metal lid adorned by an imitation ruby cabochon. This thoughtful design not only made the bottle a beautiful addition to any dressing table but also practical for travel, as the inner stopper ensured the perfume remained securely sealed without risk of leakage.

Described as a "modern and masculine square bottle," its sleek lines and luxurious materials underscored its sophisticated appeal. Adding to its allure, the presentation box was embellished with an ornate fabric dating back to the 18th century, sourced from the personal collection of antique textiles belonging to the iconic Paul Poiret. For those seeking a more accessible option, an alternative version of the box replicated the original fabric using printed paper, maintaining a touch of elegance at a more affordable price point.

Both the box and the bottle were adorned with a whimsically designed paper label, a masterpiece created by Georges Lepape. The label depicted delicate flowers flourishing against a trellis, symbolizing the espalier technique, which also served as a nod to the perfume’s name, Espalier du Roy. This artistic representation marked one of the earliest expressions of the Art Deco style, capturing the essence of the era's sophistication and artistic innovation. Together, these elements combined to create a perfume presentation that was not only a testament to luxury and craftsmanship but also a reflection of timeless beauty and artistic ingenuity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Espalier du Roy, along with several other Rosine fragrances, faced discontinuation, likely by the 1930s, marking the end of an era for these esteemed scents. Despite its cessation, records indicate that as late as 1923, Espalier du Roy was still available for purchase, highlighting its enduring popularity during its heyday. Today, finding intact examples of its distinctive bottle design is a rarity, and complete presentations including the original box are even more elusive.

For collectors and enthusiasts, acquiring a genuine Espalier du Roy bottle has become a pursuit marked by its rarity and historical significance. Due to its scarcity, prices in the market reflect its exclusivity, often commanding significant sums. Given these circumstances, collectors are advised to seize the opportunity if a bottle surfaces for sale, as it represents not only a piece of perfume history but also a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of its time. Such acquisitions not only enrich private collections but also preserve a tangible link to a bygone era of luxury perfumery and artistic expression..