Le Minaret by Rosine c1913

The launch of Le Minaret by Rosine in 1913 marked a significant period in the history of both perfumery and the arts. This was a time of immense cultural dynamism, where the worlds of fashion, dance, and fragrance intertwined to create new sensory experiences. The early 20th century was characterized by the Art Nouveau movement, with its emphasis on organic forms, intricate designs, and a celebration of exoticism from distant lands.

The name "Le Minaret" would have been particularly appealing as a name for a perfume during this period. A minaret, typically a tall spire or tower associated with mosques, evokes images of elegance, height, and exotic allure. In the context of perfumery, this name suggests a fragrance that is ethereal, uplifting, and perhaps imbued with elements of mystery and exoticism. It hints at a scent that transports the wearer to distant, romantic landscapes where ornate architecture meets fragrant gardens.

Moreover, the association with Jacques Richepin’s ballet "Le Minaret," for which Paul Poiret designed costumes, adds another layer of allure. Richepin's ballet would have been a spectacle of artistry and imagination, blending music, dance, and visual aesthetics into a harmonious whole. Naming a perfume after such a collaborative and creative endeavor aligns it with the avant-garde spirit of the time, where boundaries between different forms of artistic expression were blurred.

In essence, "Le Minaret" as a perfume name encapsulates the zeitgeist of the early 20th century, when fragrances were not merely scents but experiences that intertwined with the arts and cultural currents of the era. It invites the wearer to envision a world where fragrance is not just a personal adornment but a gateway to dreams, fantasies, and the beauty of artistic collaboration.

Le Balcon by Rosine c1914

Launching a perfume like Le Balcon in 1914 was a moment encapsulated in the delicate, romantic essence of the Belle Époque, a period marked by elegance, artistic exploration, and the flourishing of French culture. It was an era where poetry and literature intertwined with daily life, inspiring not only artists but also perfumers like Henri Alméras, who sought to capture the essence of emotions and moments in scent.

The name "Le Balcon" evokes a sense of allure and intimacy. In the context of romance, a balcony serves as a private yet open space where moments of connection and contemplation unfold. It symbolizes a retreat from the bustling streets below, offering a secluded vantage point where one can observe and be observed, much like the characters in Baudelaire's poem. 

Perfume itself often seeks to evoke such intimate moments and emotions. A balcony, with its connotations of privacy, beauty, and a hint of the outdoors, aligns perfectly with the sensory experience of perfume. It embodies both proximity and distance, the tangible and the ephemeral, much like how a well-crafted fragrance unfolds its notes over time, revealing different facets and emotions.

Therefore, "Le Balcon" as a name for a perfume not only draws on literary and personal inspirations but also invites the wearer to experience a narrative through scent. It suggests a fragrance that captures the essence of longing, beauty, and the fleeting nature of romantic encounters—a timeless allure that resonates across generations, much like the poetry that inspired it.

Aladin by Rosine c1919

The launch of the perfume Aladin in 1919 occurred during a time of cultural fascination with exoticism and orientalism in Western Europe, particularly influenced by the tales of The Thousand and One Nights. This period also coincided with the legacy of medieval Persia's rich artistic and literary traditions, which captivated the imagination of artists and designers alike. Paul Poiret, known for his avant-garde fashion and flair for theatricality, embraced this aesthetic fervor, often styling himself as the "Pasha of Paris," blending elements of Eastern and Western styles in his creations.

Naming a perfume Aladin in this context would undoubtedly capitalize on the romanticized allure of the East that permeated European artistic circles at the time. The name Aladin evokes the enchanting world of the Arabian Nights, conjuring images of magic, opulence, and mysterious lands. It suggests a fragrance that transports the wearer to a realm of fantasy and adventure, where the air is redolent with exotic spices, incense, and the intoxicating allure of oriental gardens.

For consumers in the early 20th century, purchasing a perfume named Aladin would have meant acquiring not just a scent, but also a piece of this fantastical narrative woven through literature and art. It promised to imbue the wearer with a sense of the exotic and the magical, aligning perfectly with the prevailing taste for escapism and luxury. In essence, Aladin by Rosine, launched in 1919, embodied the allure of an oriental fantasy, encapsulating the spirit of its namesake and appealing to the romantic and adventurous sensibilities of its time.

Mam'zelle Victoire by Rosine c1915

The perfume "Mam'zelle Victoire" by Rosine was launched in 1915, during a tumultuous period in world history. The First World War had already begun, with the conflict starting in July 1914. By 1915, the war had escalated into a full-scale global conflict involving many of the world's great powers. Europe was engulfed in trench warfare, with battles causing massive casualties and widespread devastation.

During this time, France was deeply involved in the war effort. The country was one of the major fronts of the war, with battles such as the Second Battle of Ypres and the Battle of Loos taking place in 1915. The French government and its people were fully mobilized, both on the home front and the battlefields. Nationalism and patriotic fervor were high, as France sought to defend itself against German aggression and recover occupied territories.

The name "Mam'zelle Victoire," translating to "Miss Victory," was particularly appropriate for a perfume launched during this period. It conveyed a sense of optimism and hope for victory in a time of great uncertainty and hardship. Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer and perfumer, likely chose this name to resonate with the national sentiment and to boost morale. The name combined a youthful and charming term of endearment, "Mam'zelle" (a casual form of "Mademoiselle"), with the powerful and aspirational word "Victoire" (Victory), embodying the spirit of resilience and triumph.

The perfume, and its name, would have strongly resonated with women of the period. Women were playing crucial roles in the war effort, both in France and abroad, taking on jobs and responsibilities traditionally held by men who were now at the front. The name "Mam'zelle Victoire" would have been a source of inspiration, symbolizing their contribution to the eventual success and the positive future they were fighting for.

The images and feelings evoked by "Mam'zelle Victoire" are those of patriotism, strength, and hope. The symbolism of the French Republic—tricolor flags, the rooster, cockade, and revolutionary clothing—alongside the central image of Marianne, who represents liberty and reason, would have been particularly meaningful to French women. These symbols reinforced their national identity and unity during a time of crisis, serving as a reminder of what they were defending.

It is said that Georges Lepape collaborated with Poiret on the perfume bottle and packaging design and, of course, completed all the artwork for the labelling and advertising. This advertisement appeared in 1916.

Maharadjah by Rosine c1921

The year 1921 was a period marked by significant social and cultural transformations. The world was emerging from the devastation of World War I, and societies were experiencing a shift towards modernity and a break from traditional norms. The Roaring Twenties had begun, characterized by economic prosperity, technological advancements, and a flourishing of arts and culture. Jazz music, Art Deco design, and flapper fashion became symbols of this new era. The film industry was booming, with Hollywood establishing itself as the heart of cinema. Silent films were at their peak, with stars like Rudolph Valentino and Alla Nazimova captivating audiences worldwide.

On the stage, theater and performance art were also undergoing changes. There was a fascination with exoticism and orientalism, reflecting a broader trend of exploring and romanticizing cultures considered mysterious and luxurious by Western standards. This was the backdrop against which the perfume Maharadjah by Rosine was launched. The name "Maharadjah" evokes images of opulence, grandeur, and exotic royalty, perfectly in line with the 1920s' penchant for glamour and extravagance. A Maharajah is an Indian prince, often associated with immense wealth and splendor, making it an ideal moniker for a perfume intended to convey luxury and allure.

Connais tu le Pays? by Rosine c1920

"Connais tu le Pays?" by Rosine, launched in 1920, is a fragrance that not only encapsulates the spirit of post-war renewal and artistic innovation but also evokes a deep sense of patriotism and national pride in France. This perfume is a fitting tribute to French cultural heritage, drawing inspiration from the beloved opera "Mignon" and the grandeur of the Orangerie at Versailles.

The name "Connais tu le Pays?" translates to "Knowest thou the land?" in English, directly referencing the poignant aria from Ambroise Thomas's opera "Mignon." This aria, with its evocative line "Do you know the country where the orange flowers bloom?", speaks to a longing for the idyllic and beautiful landscapes of France. It conjures images of the French countryside, with its fragrant orange groves and lush gardens, and stirs a sense of national pride and nostalgia.

In addition to its operatic inspiration, the perfume draws heavily from the Orangerie at Versailles, an iconic symbol of French horticultural excellence and regal opulence. The Orangerie, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart under the reign of Louis XIV, houses an extensive collection of orange trees and other delicate plants. This magnificent structure represents the pinnacle of French garden design and reflects the country's rich history and cultural achievements.

The design of the "Connais tu le Pays?" bottle and packaging further emphasizes this patriotic connection. The round frosted glass bottle, shaped like an orange with a gilded leaf stopper, is a nod to the fragrant orange trees of the Orangerie. The presentation box, adorned in shades of pink, yellow orange, pale green, and forest green, reflects the vibrant and lush landscape of the Versailles gardens. This thoughtful design not only captures the essence of the Orangerie but also celebrates the natural beauty and elegance of France.

For consumers in the 1920s, the combination of these influences would have been immensely appealing. In the aftermath of World War I, there was a strong desire to reconnect with and celebrate French cultural heritage. "Connais tu le Pays?" offers not just a fragrance, but a journey into the heart of France, evoking the romance and grandeur of its operatic and horticultural traditions. The name and inspiration of the perfume invite wearers to explore and appreciate the beauty and sophistication of their homeland, fostering a sense of pride and connection to their country.

In essence, "Connais tu le Pays?" is a harmonious blend of artistic and natural inspirations, encapsulating the elegance, sophistication, and patriotic spirit of its time. It is a perfume that tells a story, inviting the wearer to embark on a fragrant journey through the cultural and historical landscapes of France, from the operatic stage to the blooming groves of Versailles, all while celebrating the nation's rich heritage and timeless beauty.

Coeur en Folie by Rosine c1922

In the early 1920s, the world was emerging from the devastation of World War I, entering a period often dubbed the "Roaring Twenties." It was an era marked by social and cultural transformation, where post-war optimism blended with a newfound sense of liberation, particularly among women. Paris, renowned as the epicenter of art, fashion, and entertainment, epitomized this vibrant spirit. The Folies Bergère, a legendary cabaret venue in the heart of the city, epitomized this era of artistic freedom and sensuality, captivating audiences with its daring performances.

Against this backdrop, in 1922, the perfume Coeur en Folie by Rosine was launched. Its name, translating to "Heart Madness" or "Heart on Fire," encapsulates the essence of the era perfectly. "Coeur en Folie" conjures images of passion, intensity, and a touch of recklessness—a fitting homage to the lively and daring spirit of the Folies Bergère performances that inspired it. The perfume's debut at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris underscored its alignment with the cutting-edge trends and avant-garde creativity of the time.

Bosquet d’Apollon by Rosine c1922

The year 1922 marked a significant moment in history, particularly in the realm of art, culture, and luxury. It was a time when the world was beginning to emerge from the shadows of the First World War, seeking a revival of elegance and sophistication. In France, especially, the post-war period saw a resurgence of interest in the lavish lifestyles of the past, epitomized by the opulence of the Palace of Versailles.

The Grove of Apollo, or Bosquet d’Apollon, within the gardens of Versailles, holds a special place in this narrative. It was originally designed by landscape architect André Le Nôtre in the 17th century as part of King Louis XIV's grand vision for Versailles. The grove is a testament to the king’s admiration for Apollo, the Greek god of music, poetry, art, and oracles. In its physical form, the Bosquet d’Apollon features meticulously manicured gardens, ornate sculptures depicting Apollo and the Muses, and a central fountain that exudes grandeur and artistic finesse.

The name "Bosquet d’Apollon" carries profound symbolism and allure, particularly when associated with a perfume. Perfume, like Versailles itself, is an embodiment of luxury, beauty, and timeless elegance. By naming a perfume after the Grove of Apollo, one evokes not only the physical splendor of Versailles but also the cultural and artistic heritage it represents. It speaks to an era of refinement, where every detail, from fragrance to presentation, is crafted to evoke emotions and memories of a golden age.

Choosing such a name for a perfume aligns it with the romanticism and allure of historical epochs, inviting consumers into a world where scent becomes a conduit for experiencing the grandeur and sophistication of Versailles. It connects the wearer with a legacy of artistic patronage and cultural significance, resonating with those who appreciate the finer things in life and seek to embody elegance through fragrance.

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes

1929 Prices for Rosine Perfumes as seen in the Kansas City Star. You can see how the prices for Rosine's perfumes dropped


Perfumes:

• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Nuit de Chine Extract....Originally $7.50... Now  $4.69 
• Rosine's Nuit de Chine Extract ...Originally $14.00... Now $7.35 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $2.50... Now$1.00 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $3.50...Now $1.79 
• Rosine’s Maharadjah Extract ..Originally $18.00... Now  $9.95 
• Rosine's Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $2.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Qui es tu Extract ...Originally $3.50... Now  $1.79 
• Rosine's Chypre Extract ......Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 
• Rosine’s Jasmin Extract ..... Originally $5.00... Now  $3.49 

Powders:

• Rosine’s Dusting Powder ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—tin container ...Originally $1.50... Now  $1.00 
• Rosine’s Talcum—glass container ..Originally $1.09...  Now 79c

Avenue du Bois by Rosine c1912

The fragrance Avenue du Bois by Rosine was introduced in 1912, amidst the vibrant cultural milieu of the Belle Époque in Paris. This era, characterized by economic prosperity and artistic flourishing, saw Paris as a center of sophistication and elegance. The perfume's name, translating to "Avenue of the Woods" in French, pays homage to the prestigious Avenue du Bois leading to the Bois de Boulogne, a renowned park in Paris known for its natural beauty and leisurely atmosphere.

During the Belle Époque, the Bois de Boulogne and its surrounding avenues were favored by the wealthy and fashionable elite of Paris. These areas were synonymous with leisurely strolls, carriage rides, and social gatherings among the well-dressed residents and visitors of the city. The choice of naming a perfume after Avenue du Bois would have been particularly appealing for its associations with elegance, refinement, and historical significance.

The name Avenue du Bois suggests a connection to both nature and luxury. It evokes images of tree-lined avenues, elegant homes, and the opulent lifestyle of the Belle Époque era. Moreover, the avenue was home to notable figures like Jacques Doucet, whose residence further adds to the allure of exclusivity and sophistication associated with the fragrance.

In summary, Avenue du Bois by Rosine, launched in 1912, captures the essence of a bygone era in Parisian history. The name not only reflects the natural beauty and leisurely ambiance of the Avenue du Bois leading to the Bois de Boulogne but also resonates with the elegance and luxury of the Belle Époque period, appealing to those who appreciate the historical and cultural richness of early 20th-century Paris.

Le Mouchoir de Rosine by Rosine c1914

In 1914, the year "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" was introduced by Paul Poiret, the cultural milieu in France was characterized by the waning days of the Belle Époque era. This period was marked by artistic innovation, societal shifts, and a departure from Victorian conservatism towards a more liberated, modern outlook. Paul Poiret, a visionary in haute couture, was renowned for challenging traditional fashion norms with his avant-garde designs that emphasized freedom and expression.

The name "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," translating to "The Handkerchief of Rosine," holds significance rooted in both practicality and symbolism. During the Victorian era, wearing perfume openly was often frowned upon due to conservative social norms. In response, perfumers devised "handkerchief perfumes," which allowed individuals to discreetly carry and apply fragrance by sprinkling it on their handkerchiefs rather than directly on their skin. This method circumvented societal taboos while still allowing individuals to enjoy the scents they desired.

Paul Poiret's choice of "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" as a name for his perfume line is a direct homage to this Victorian innovation. By evoking the concept of handkerchief perfumes, Poiret not only pays tribute to historical perfume practices but also aligns his line with a sense of refinement and elegance reminiscent of the Belle Époque era. Each bottle of "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" was meticulously wrapped in a vibrantly colored silk handkerchief, tailored to match the mood and preferences of the buyer. This personalized touch not only enhanced the allure of the fragrance but also allowed patrons to express their individuality through their choice of scent and accompanying fabric.

Furthermore, Poiret drew inspiration from the Victorian and Edwardian fascination with the Language of Flowers, a symbolic system where specific flowers conveyed nuanced messages and emotions. By infusing his fragrances with this botanical symbolism, Poiret imbued "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" with layers of meaning and cultural depth, appealing to the romantic sensibilities of his clientele.

In summary, "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" by Rosine represents a convergence of historical homage and artistic innovation. Through its name and presentation, Poiret honors Victorian traditions of discreet perfume use while embracing the language of flowers to create a sensory experience that resonated with the sophistication and individuality of early 20th-century Parisian society.

 Rosine describes the line poetically: 

 "Did Rosine wake up uncertain and pensive, still under the impression of confused dreams? She only admits a green handkerchief, the color of myrtle and symbol of mystery. Does she feel a secret uneasiness, some jealous torment? She adopts the orange in memory of the nasturtium. Does she feel in the mood to betray? So it will be the red, the peony. More often, I think, she chooses yellow, in other words daffodil, desire, or even better blue, the tender blue of morning glory, divine blue, the prognosis of caresses, sometimes even pink, the color of her favorite flower."

The Woman Fortnightly Magazine, 1922:

"I go out through the door of the faubourg St Honoré where the magician still presents a marvel of his multifaceted activity: "Les parfums de Rosine." I remember that when one of his first creations - Le mouchoir de Rosine - first appeared in Italy - I stood perplexed contemplating that curly handkerchief bundled up in the middle of a shop window and wondering what strange charm the Mouchoir de Rosine. Then I learned that she was hiding a vial of delicious perfume in her hands. This was followed by all the other more suggestive summers: La Coupe d'or Nuit de chine, Le Minaret, Borgia, of which you don't know whether to prefer the essence or the case which is a small work of art. An artist case that is a small work of art."

 

  

Fragrance Composition:

In Paul Poiret's 1914 fragrance collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each color variant was not merely a visual distinction but a poetic exploration of moods and emotions, inspired by the Victorian Language of Flowers. 

Green:

In Paul Poiret's fragrance collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," green symbolized the myrtle flower, which traditionally conveyed love in the Victorian Language of Flowers. However, Poiret ingeniously reinterpreted this symbol to evoke an aura of mystery, encapsulating his penchant for unconventional elegance and intrigue. Myrtle, renowned for its clear, fresh, camphoraceous, and sweet herbaceous scent reminiscent of eucalyptus, served as the olfactory cornerstone of this fragrance.

During Poiret's era, perfumers meticulously blended various essences to recreate the essence of myrtle. The fragrance composition typically included extracts of jasmine and tuberose, which added floral depth and sensuality to the perfume. Orange blossom contributed a delicate citrus-floral note, while rose provided a rich and timeless floral bouquet. Tincture of vanilla imparted a smooth sweetness, harmonizing with the herbal nuances of myrtle oil.

To ensure longevity and complexity in the perfume, Poiret's perfumers employed fixatives such as storax and civet. Storax, with its warm, balsamic aroma, served to anchor the fragrance, enhancing its depth and richness over time. Civet, a musky secretion from the civet cat, added an animalic undertone, contributing to the perfume's allure and sophistication.

By blending these ingredients harmoniously, Poiret crafted a fragrance that transcended conventional notions of floral perfumery. His reinterpretation of myrtle not only reflected his avant-garde approach to fragrance but also underscored his ability to imbue each scent in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" with a distinct personality and narrative. The result was a perfume that captured the essence of mystery—a testament to Poiret's artistic vision and his commitment to pushing the boundaries of olfactory artistry during the Belle Époque era.

 

Yellow:

Paul Poiret's "yellow" perfume, symbolizing the daffodil or narcissus, epitomized a rich and opulent floral composition with subtle green undertones. During Poiret's era, perfumes of this nature were meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of luxurious indulgence and sophistication.

To achieve the desired fragrance profile, Poiret's perfumers employed a blend of key ingredients. Jonquil extract, derived from the Narcissus jonquilla species, contributed its distinct floral character, while tuberose extract added depth with its creamy and intense floral notes. Vanilla tincture imparted a smooth sweetness, complemented by storax tincture which provided a warm and balsamic undertone.

A crucial element in recreating the narcissus scent was the use of synthetic narcissus aromachemicals, often refined and standardized by chemists like Verley during that period. These synthetic components were crucial in capturing the essence of narcissus, ensuring consistency and depth in the fragrance.

To further enrich the perfume, Poiret's perfumers integrated orange blossom and jasmine absolutes. Orange blossom added a fresh, citrusy floral aspect, while jasmine imbued the composition with its sensual and exotic floral notes, enhancing the overall complexity and allure of the fragrance.

In some formulations, additional botanical extracts and essences might have been included to refine the scent profile. Small amounts of orris, known for its powdery and slightly woody aroma, along with civet, cassie (acacia farnesiana), and rose essences, could have been employed to add subtle nuances and depth to the perfume, creating a multi-layered olfactory experience.

Ultimately, Poiret's "yellow" perfume, inspired by the daffodil or narcissus, represented a harmonious blend of natural extracts and synthetic compounds, meticulously crafted to embody the richness, elegance, and complexity characteristic of early 20th-century French perfumery.

Red:

In Paul Poiret's visionary perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each color and fragrance was a deliberate narrative crafted to resonate with emotions and symbolism, drawing inspiration from the Victorian Language of Flowers. The hue red, representing the peony, traditionally associated with anger in Victorian symbolism, was reimagined by Poiret to evoke the complex sentiment of betrayal. Peonies, known for their diverse fragrant profiles ranging from sweet rose-like scents to hints of water lilies and citrus zest, formed the aromatic foundation of this particular perfume.

During Poiret's era, perfumers meticulously blended an array of ingredients to capture the essence of the peony. The fragrance typically included essential oils such as geranium for its floral depth, musk and musk tincture for their animalic undertones, and styrax tincture for its warm, balsamic notes. Vanillin tincture provided a sweet, vanilla-like aroma, complementing the floral bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and violet essences.

To enhance the complexity and longevity of the perfume, Poiret's formulations might have also included terpineol, a terpene alcohol known for its pine-like aroma, and methyl anthranilate, which adds a fruity, grape-like nuance. These ingredients were expertly balanced to create a fragrance that not only captured the essence of the peony but also embodied the emotional depth and storytelling prowess that characterized Poiret's avant-garde approach to perfumery.

In essence, Poiret's interpretation of the peony in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" transcended its traditional associations, transforming it into a symbol of betrayal infused with layers of floral richness and intrigue. This fragrance exemplified Poiret's ability to blend artistry with olfactory science, creating perfumes that not only delighted the senses but also resonated with the nuanced sentiments of his time.

Blue:

In Paul Poiret's innovative perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was not just a scent, but a carefully curated narrative inspired by the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color blue, symbolizing the morning glory in traditional Victorian symbolism, traditionally conveyed coquetry—suggestive of flirtation and playful charm. However, Poiret boldly reinterpreted this symbol to evoke a mood of anticipation, capturing a sense of eager expectation and anticipation for what lies ahead.

The fragrance composition of Poiret's interpretation of morning glory was meticulously crafted to embody this sense of anticipation. Morning glories are known for their delicate, slightly sweet scent with a subtle hint of anise-like aroma. To recreate this fragrance in Poiret's time, perfumers turned to the burgeoning field of synthetic chemistry. They utilized a combination of chemical compounds such as benzo dihydropyrone, which offers a warm, sweet scent reminiscent of coumarin, known for its hay-like aroma. Dimethyl hydroquinone added a touch of freshness, while methyl anisate contributed a soft, aromatic note akin to anise.

These synthetic components were carefully blended to mirror the natural fragrance of morning glory, ensuring a harmonious balance of floral sweetness and herbal freshness. Poiret's choice to use these modern chemical compounds not only showcased his avant-garde approach to perfumery but also exemplified his ability to blend traditional floral symbolism with cutting-edge olfactory science.

Thus, Poiret's "Blue" perfume in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" encapsulated more than just a scent—it embodied a narrative of anticipation and possibility, crafted with precision and artistry to resonate with the evolving tastes and sensibilities of early 20th-century Parisian society.

Pink:

In Paul Poiret's visionary perfume collection "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was a meticulous narrative woven around the evocative symbolism of the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color pink, symbolizing the rose, traditionally epitomized love in Victorian society. However, Poiret diverged from this tradition by assigning the rose a new symbolic role: that of consent—a sophisticated expression of willing acceptance.

Poiret's pursuit of capturing the essence of the rose involved employing the finest ingredients available. He would have integrated precious rose absolutes extracted from pomades meticulously crafted from roses cultivated in Grasse, renowned for producing some of the world's most exquisite floral essences. These absolutes formed the heart of the fragrance, imparting rich, multifaceted floral notes characteristic of the queen of flowers.

To enrich and deepen the complexity of the rose composition, Poiret's perfumers incorporated tuberose and cassie (acacia farnesiana) extracts. Tuberose, with its creamy and intensely floral aroma, added a sensual depth and opulence to the bouquet. Cassie, known for its warm and honeyed floral scent, contributed a nuanced sweetness that complemented the rich floral notes of the rose and tuberose.

Fixatives were essential in ensuring the longevity and fullness of the fragrance. Civet, a musky secretion from the civet cat, enhanced the perfume with its animalic undertones, adding depth and intrigue. Patchouli infused the blend with an earthy richness, while ambergris provided a subtle marine muskiness, harmonizing the composition with a touch of sophistication.

In the top notes of the perfume, Poiret might have included synthetic essence linalool to enhance freshness and brightness, alongside a minuscule amount of aniline dye for the rosy color, enhancing the visual appeal of the olfactory experience.

Poiret's reinterpretation of the rose as a symbol of consent in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" exemplified his mastery of perfumery as an art form. By infusing each fragrance with layers of symbolism and emotion, Poiret not only created scents that captivated the senses but also offered his clientele a profound exploration of human sentiments and cultural ideals, encapsulated within each exquisitely crafted perfume bottle.

Orange:

In Paul Poiret's revolutionary perfume line "Le Mouchoir de Rosine," each fragrance was a testament to his visionary approach to scent and storytelling, intricately weaving together symbolism and emotion from the Victorian Language of Flowers. The color orange, representing the nasturtium, traditionally symbolized patriotism in Victorian floral customs. However, Poiret challenged tradition by assigning the nasturtium a new role: embodying the complex emotion of jealousy—a bold reinterpretation that underscored his avant-garde sensibilities.

The fragrance profile of Poiret's nasturtium perfume was carefully crafted to capture its distinctive characteristics. Nasturtiums are known for their sweet, slightly peppery scent, and Poiret's perfumers recreated this essence using a blend of natural extracts and essences. Nasturtium infusions, derived from pomades of the flower, formed the foundation, imparting the peppery note that defined the fragrance. Anisic aldehydes added a subtle aromatic warmth, complemented by violet extract for its delicate floral nuances.

To enhance the complexity and allure of the perfume, Poiret included orange blossom extract, which contributed fresh, citrusy undertones, and acacia extract, known for its rich, honeyed facets. Jasmine extract infused the composition with a sensual and exotic floral character, while rose essence added a timeless elegance. Vanilla provided a smooth, sweet base note, while coumarin added a hint of hay-like sweetness. Tolu tincture contributed warm, balsamic undertones, and musk essence lent a subtle animalic quality, ensuring depth and longevity in the fragrance.

Poiret's reinterpretation of the nasturtium as a symbol of jealousy in "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" exemplified his ability to blend tradition with innovation, creating perfumes that transcended mere scent to become evocative narratives. By infusing each fragrance with layers of symbolism and emotion, Poiret invited his clientele to explore complex human sentiments through the sensory experience of perfume, marking a significant contribution to the artistry of early 20th-century French perfumery.

Bottles:

 "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" debuted as a collection of fragrances presented in six distinct color variations, each accompanied by a meticulously chosen silk handkerchief that harmonized with the essence of the scent. The handkerchief, adorned in vibrant hues, was elegantly wrapped around the bottle and secured with an ornamental "amber" ring, likely crafted from tinted celluloid rather than genuine amber. This ring was skillfully slid down the silky fabric to the bottle's stopper, ensuring its snug placement.

The clear glass bottle featured a gracefully rounded base and an elongated, slender neck, topped with a carefully crafted ground glass stopper. These elements were then delicately housed within a cylindrical cardboard box embellished with exquisite printed paper.

Each fragrance in the collection was not only associated with a specific flower but also intended to evoke a distinct emotional tone:

• Green symbolized mystery,
• Orange conveyed jealousy,
• Red embodied betrayal,
• Yellow evoked desire,
• Blue suggested anticipation,
• Rose represented consent.

This combination of olfactory artistry and visual elegance made "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" a captivating ensemble, appealing not only to the senses but also to the emotions and aesthetic sensibilities of its discerning clientele.

Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, 1919:

"There is the "Mouchoir de Rosine," for instance, consisting of a bottle enclosed in a dainty silk handkerchief secured round it by an amber ring."

photo by Musee International de la Parfumerie in Grasse.

photo by Drouot

Fate of the Fragrance:

The "Le Mouchoir de Rosine" collection met its end in 1930 when Rosine ceased production of most of its perfumes. Remaining stock was subsequently liquidated at steeply discounted prices. Today, these rare Mouchoir de Rosine bottles are a prized rarity, with their accompanying silk handkerchiefs often lost to the passage of time. When these coveted items do appear on the market, they command high prices among collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike.

Paul Poiret in the USA

Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 17, 1922:

"Paul Poiret, the world famous designer of apparel for women, who manufactures at Courbevoie, France, a line of perfumes under the name of Rosine, in honor of his daughter, Rosine arrived on the France, August 26 ,and sailed for home on the Paris, September 13, after spending a few weeks in the United States. 

M. Poiret spent considerable time with Maurice Levy, 12 W. 41st street, New York City, who handles the Rosine line of perfumes in the United States. M. Poiret maintains an art school and his students decorate and design containers and bottles in which his perfumes are sold. The working hours of the factory are from 8 am to 7 pm and luncheon and wine are served to all employes. 

M. Poiret states that he is trying to work along new lines and employs novel aromatic products that give a new note to his perfumes."

Rosine Amphora Perfume Bottles

Two examples of Rosine's perfume bottles, for unknown perfumes. Photos by Piasa.

Painted bottle, created by Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel. Stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: crown bindweed Nattier blue and blue and white wisteria climbing foliage interspersed black. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange surrounded by a navy blue silk thread. Height: 13 cm. Lacking stopper.

Perfume bottle, creating the Atelier Martine. Bottle colorless blown glass, painted "by hand" in cold enamel.

Exotic stylized vegetal decoration on the foot and the body of the bottle: long palmate leaves green and yellow banana stems and exotic flowers yellow ocher. Amphora-shaped on a pedestal, small collar flange; cork drip-drip tin topped with a screw-down crown. Height: 15 cm. Small crown stopper.

La Véritable Eau de Cologne by Rosine c1912

La Véritable Eau de Cologne by Rosine: launched in 1922

La Coupe d'Or by Rosine c1910

The perfume La Coupe d'Or, launched in 1910, epitomizes the elegance and cultural milieu of its time. During the early 20th century, particularly in the Belle Époque period leading up to World War I, Paris was a center of artistic and cultural innovation. This era was characterized by its lavishness, sophistication, and a burgeoning interest in luxury goods, including perfumes.

The name "La Coupe d'Or," meaning "The Golden Bowl," evokes imagery of opulence and refinement, fitting seamlessly into the zeitgeist of the early 20th century. In French culture, the use of "gold" symbolizes richness, exclusivity, and beauty. A golden bowl, in particular, suggests a vessel of preciousness and allure, metaphorically holding something of immense value—like the fragrance itself.

As for its inspiration, La Coupe d'Or would likely draw from the trends and themes of its time. Perfumes of this era often featured floral bouquets with rich, oriental undertones or powdery notes that were favored by the fashionable elite. They aimed to capture the essence of femininity and sophistication, catering to a clientele that appreciated artistry and luxury in every detail of their lives.

The appeal of La Coupe d'Or in 1910 would lie not only in its luxurious name and packaging but also in its ability to transport wearers to a world of elegance and refinement. Perfume during this period was not just a fragrance but a statement of personal style and taste. It was a means of expressing oneself and indulging in a bit of escapism into a more glamorous realm.

Therefore, La Coupe d'Or by Rosine, created by perfumer Maurice Schaller, would have been a fitting addition to the perfume market of 1910 Paris, offering a blend of luxury, artistry, and cultural resonance that appealed to the sophisticated tastes of its time.