D’où viens-tu? by Rosine c1925

The year 1925, when "D’où viens-tu?" by Rosine was launched, falls within the vibrant and transformative period of the Roaring Twenties. This era was characterized by significant social, cultural, and economic changes in the aftermath of World War I. Economically, many Western countries experienced a boom, leading to greater consumerism and the emergence of a modern lifestyle. Culturally, the 1920s saw the rise of the Jazz Age, with jazz music becoming immensely popular, alongside a flourishing of artistic and literary movements such as Art Deco, Surrealism, and Modernism. Additionally, women's roles were changing, with the flapper movement symbolizing their newfound social freedoms, challenging traditional roles and embracing a more liberated and fashionable lifestyle. Technological advancements also made luxury goods more accessible, contributing to the decade’s dynamic nature.

"D’où viens-tu?", pronounced "Doo vyan tew", translates to "Where do you come from?" and is an appropriate name for a perfume for several reasons. Firstly, it evokes a sense of mystery and intrigue, appealing qualities in a fragrance, as scents often carry an air of the exotic and the unknown. This name also fosters an emotional connection, prompting users to think about memories, journeys, or places associated with the scent, thereby enhancing the personal experience of wearing the perfume. Additionally, the romantic and poetic nature of the name, possibly referencing a song, adds a layer of charm and sophistication, making the perfume feel more special and evocative.

Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer known for his artistic sensibility, likely chose the name "D’où viens-tu?" for its cultural and personal resonance. Poiret often integrated various art forms, including music, into his work, and using song lyrics for his perfumes aligns with his overall aesthetic vision. In the cultural context of the 1920s, music, especially French chansons, played a significant role in daily life and popular culture, and by referencing a song, Poiret connects the perfume to this cultural zeitgeist. Additionally, naming his perfumes after song lyrics could be seen as Poiret’s personal signature, distinguishing his products in the competitive world of fashion and fragrance.

Parfum de Ma Marraine by Rosine c1915

The launch of "Parfum de Ma Marraine" in 1915 occurred during a poignant period deeply impacted by the First World War. This era was characterized by soldiers being stationed far from home, often writing letters to their loved ones and receiving care packages in return. The exchanges of letters and small gifts were a lifeline connecting soldiers to their families and sweethearts, providing comfort and a sense of closeness amidst the turmoil of war.

If a soldier sent a letter but received no reply, it would evoke feelings of anxiety, uncertainty, and longing. The lack of response could suggest various scenarios—from logistical delays to more distressing possibilities like injury or loss.

"Parfum de Ma Marraine," pronounced as "par-fuh(n) duh mah mah-rehn," translating to "My Godmother's Perfume," is a deeply evocative name for a perfume launched during this time. A godmother traditionally holds a special place in one's life, often symbolizing guidance, care, and affection. Naming a perfume after such a figure suggests nurturing, comfort, and a personal connection that transcends distance and adversity. It resonates with the sentiments of soldiers finding solace in memories of loved ones and the familiar scents that remind them of home.

Paul Poiret, the designer behind the perfume, likely chose this name to evoke nostalgia, warmth, and emotional resonance. In a time of war, when many sought moments of tenderness and familiarity, a perfume named after a godmother's scent encapsulates a yearning for stability and the enduring bonds of love and support.

The appeal of "Parfum de Ma Marraine" lies in its ability to transport wearers and evoke emotions of nostalgia and connection to loved ones. During the First World War, such sentiments were particularly powerful as people sought comfort amidst uncertainty and upheaval. Women of the period would likely be drawn to a perfume that promised to evoke such heartfelt emotions and memories.

In essence, "Parfum de Ma Marraine" by Rosine launched in 1915 encapsulates a moment in history where personal connections, memories of loved ones, and the desire for comfort and reassurance were paramount. Its name and presentation in a classic checked handkerchief within a rustic envelope resonated deeply with the spirit of the times, offering a fragrant reminder of cherished relationships amidst the chaos of war.

Rosine Atomizers

In 1912-1913, atomizers (called vaporisateurs) with Rosine fragrances were launched along with their matching saucers on which they rested. 

Rosine's Narghile Cigarette Perfume

In 1924, Paul Poiret introduced a line of perfumes meant to scent the tobacco inside cigarettes. He named the line Narghile and sold it under the Rosine name. A narghile is the name for a Middle Eastern hookah pipe. The cigarette perfumes were the same extraits sold in his Rosine shop, just sold inside of small breakable glass ampules that look exactly like perfume Nips:

• Le Balcon
• Nuit de Chine
• Hahna
• Borgia
• Maharadjah

If one didn't want to be bothered with scenting their own cigarettes, Rosine offered pre-scented cigarettes in packs of ten. For demonstration of the cigarettes, some of the milliner's heads at the Poiret couture shop had a small opening at the corner of the mouth into which one of the Rosine perfumed cigarettes could be placed.

"Connoisseurs and refined... flavor your cigarettes with the Narghile. Rosine's latest creation. These very fine bulbs containing the rare essences of Rosine make it possible to impregnate the tobacco and not the paper and to spread around oneself curls of a deliciously fragrant smoke.

• The case of 12 bulbs...6 francs
• The case of 36 bulbs...18 francs
• The case of 72 vials...30 francs

Luxury Tobacco and Chez Rosine offices, 107 Faubourg St Honore."

Le Crapouillot, 1921:

"Monsieur and Madame don't get along. Monsieur smokes too much and brings back in his clothes, I don't know what dirty smell of sealing wax and tobacco that poisons even the cupboards. Madame's dresses smell of tobacco and the maid has given her account. Life together is intolerable. But Monsieur has found a way and peace has returned because he smokes his cigarettes at the Narghilé. Madame is having a lot of fun breaking the thin glass bulb herself. It's a small operation that enchants her and gives her a pretext for all sorts of coquetry. She gazes rapturously at the fragrance that flows and bathes in the wisps of smoke. The household now lives in a fragrant and balsamic cloud. Love and tobacco!...

The Music Hall is a delicious place where you can smoke at ease. But, there are neighbors who grimace when tobacco is not to their liking. A little advice to amateurs: Thanks to the Narghilé, creation of Rosine, you can now flavor the smoke as you wish and the neighbors are asking for more. The Narghilé can be found in all luxury tobacconists."

 

1925 by Rosine c1925

The perfume "1925" by Rosine, launched on the day of the opening of the 1925 Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris, was deeply intertwined with the cultural and artistic milieu of the time. The 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes was a landmark event that defined the Art Deco movement, showcasing modern and innovative designs that emphasized luxury, elegance, and a forward-looking aesthetic. This exposition not only celebrated the latest in decorative arts but also set the tone for fashion, design, and lifestyle in the mid-1920s.

Naming the perfume "1925" was a strategic and evocative choice. Paul Poiret, a pioneering fashion designer and the creative mind behind Rosine, understood the importance of branding and the power of cultural references. By christening the perfume "1925," Poiret linked it directly to the zeitgeist of the era, encapsulating the modernity and sophistication that the exposition represented. The name "1925" would have resonated with contemporary women who were captivated by the excitement and innovation of the Art Deco movement. It symbolized not just a year, but an entire cultural and aesthetic revolution, appealing to those who wished to align themselves with the cutting-edge trends and the glamorous lifestyle of the time.

Women of the 1920s, especially those attending or aware of the Paris exposition, would likely have felt a strong connection to a perfume named "1925." It represented a shared cultural moment, a year marked by significant advancements in art and design. The name alone would have evoked images of sleek, geometric patterns, luxurious materials, and the bold, modern woman. Wearing "1925" would have been akin to wearing a piece of the era’s spirit, an olfactory symbol of contemporary sophistication and elegance.

Chypre des Iles by Rosine c1925

"Chypre des Iles," launched by Rosine in 1925, captures the essence of a time when Mediterranean islands held a magnetic allure for European travelers. These destinations were sought after for their luxurious resorts, pristine beaches, and opportunities for cultural exploration. Visitors indulged in leisurely pursuits, soaking in the sun by day and exploring ancient Greek, Roman, Minoan, Etruscan, and Egyptian ruins by sunset. The islands represented a fusion of natural beauty and historical richness, making them a perfect inspiration for a perfume that sought to evoke both sophistication and escapism.

The name "Chypre des Iles" is apt for a fragrance designed by Paul Poiret, a visionary fashion designer known for his exotic and avant-garde creations. "Chypre" originally refers to Cyprus, an island in the Mediterranean, and in perfumery, it signifies a fragrance category characterized by citrus top notes, floral middle notes, and a base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. "Des Iles," meaning "of the islands," further enhances the perfume's appeal by conjuring images of sun-drenched shores, lush vegetation, and the salty breeze of the sea. This combination of elements paints a sensory picture that resonates with the romanticized notions of Mediterranean beauty and elegance.

Paul Poiret's choice of the name "Chypre des Iles" aligns with the era's fascination with exoticism and the Mediterranean's cultural and natural allure. The name evokes a sense of luxury and adventure, appealing to women of the period who embraced perfumes as symbols of sophistication and personal expression. "Chypre des Iles" would have been particularly attractive to those who appreciated fragrances that embodied both the refined pleasures of resort life and the timeless allure of ancient civilizations. In essence, the perfume encapsulates the spirit of early 20th-century Mediterranean escapism, offering wearers a sensory journey to a world of elegance, beauty, and cultural exploration.

Parfums Rosine at the 1925 Art Deco Exhibition

Gardenia by Rosine c1928

Gardenia by Rosine: launched in 1928.

La Serie du Soleil. 

Jasmin de la Riviera by Rosine c1925

The French Riviera, known as the Côte d'Azur, thrived during the 1920s as a haven for the wealthy and cultural elite seeking leisure and luxury along its picturesque Mediterranean coastline. Cities such as Nice, Cannes, and Monte Carlo flourished with opulent resorts offering lavish accommodations, prestigious casinos, and haute cuisine. This era, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," symbolized post-World War I prosperity and a growing appreciation for indulgent pursuits. The Riviera's allure extended beyond its scenic beauty, drawing artists, writers, and celebrities who contributed to an atmosphere steeped in sophistication and glamour, making it a magnet for international travelers seeking pleasure and social engagement.

Central to the Riviera's charm was its natural splendor, encompassing sun-drenched beaches and vibrant flower fields. The region, particularly around Grasse, played a pivotal role in the perfume industry, cultivating aromatic flowers like jasmine and roses for their prized essential oils. This not only enhanced the area's natural appeal but also solidified its reputation as a global hub for fine fragrances. Against this backdrop, "Jasmin de la Riviera," introduced around 1925 by couturier Paul Poiret, perfectly encapsulated the essence of both the era and the region.

The name "Jasmin de la Riviera" evokes imagery of sun-kissed terraces overlooking the azure waters of the Mediterranean, leisurely walks through fragrant gardens, and evenings suffused with the scent of blooming jasmine. Jasmine, renowned for its intoxicating and exotic fragrance, symbolizes luxury, sensuality, and escapism—qualities highly esteemed during the 1920s. Paul Poiret, celebrated for his innovative and luxurious designs, deliberately chose this name to align his perfume with the opulence and allure of the Côte d'Azur, reinforcing his brand's association with elegance and extravagance.

For women of the period, "Jasmin de la Riviera" represented more than just a fragrance—it embodied a lifestyle of refinement and cosmopolitanism. As societal norms evolved, women sought to express their individuality through luxurious and exotic scents. Poiret's perfume offered a sensory journey that complemented his avant-garde fashion creations, appealing to women who admired his progressive approach to style and desired to embody the allure and glamour of the French Riviera. Thus, "Jasmin de la Riviera" not only captured the essence of a place but also encapsulated the spirit of an era and appealed to the evolving tastes and desires of women in the 1920s.

Hahna by Rosine c1919

Hahna by Rosine: launched in 1919. Created by Henri Alméras. It was subtitled both "L'Étrange Fleur" (The Strange Flower) and "La Fleur Secrète (The Secret Flower)."

The name "Hahna" is a play on the Japanese word "hana" meaning "flower".

Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine c1926

The perfume Qui Es-Tu? by Rosine was launched in 1926, a time period characterized by profound cultural and social changes, particularly for women. The Roaring Twenties, or the Jazz Age, was an era of liberation and modernity following the end of World War I. This decade witnessed significant shifts in fashion, art, and societal norms. Women were increasingly asserting their independence, gaining the right to vote in many countries, and exploring new freedoms in both their personal and public lives. The flapper style emerged, symbolizing a break from traditional roles, with women adopting shorter hairstyles, wearing more daring clothing, and embracing a lifestyle that included greater social and sexual freedom.

The name Qui Es-Tu?, meaning "Who are you?" in French, is particularly fitting for a perfume launched in this transformative period. Perfumes are deeply personal and often seen as an extension of one’s identity. By naming the fragrance "Who are you?", it suggests a reflection on identity and individuality, resonating with the contemporary woman who was navigating a rapidly changing world and redefining her role within it. The question implies a sense of introspection and self-discovery, encouraging the wearer to consider her own uniqueness and personal style.

Henri Alméras, the creator of the perfume, and Paul Poiret, the influential fashion designer and founder of Parfums de Rosine, were both known for their innovative and bold approaches. Poiret, in particular, was a pioneer in freeing women from the constraints of the corset and embracing more fluid and artistic expressions of fashion. The choice of a name like Qui Es-Tu? reflects Poiret's avant-garde vision and his understanding of the contemporary woman’s quest for identity and self-expression.

The appeal of this name to women of the 1920s lies in its alignment with the spirit of the times. As women were exploring new roles and asserting their independence, a perfume that posed a question about identity would naturally resonate. It wasn’t merely about the scent but about what the scent represented—an exploration of self, an invitation to define oneself beyond societal expectations, and a celebration of individuality. Women of that era would find this name appealing because it mirrored their own experiences and aspirations, making them feel understood and empowered.

In essence, the name Qui Es-Tu? could be seen as both the perfume asking its wearer to contemplate her identity and the wearer asking the world to recognize and acknowledge her true self. It encapsulates the dynamic interplay between personal introspection and societal recognition, making it a powerful and relevant choice for the modern woman of the 1920s.

Ambre de Venise by Rosine c1925

In the context of Venice in the early 20th century, the launch of Ambre de Venise around 1925 by Paul Poiret's House of Rosine evokes a rich tapestry of historical and cultural imagery. Venice, historically a major port and trade hub, was renowned for its bustling commerce with the East. Merchant ships brought a plethora of exotic goods, including essences and spices, from faraway lands. Ships from Arabia often transported ambergris, a rare and valuable substance used in perfumery. Venetian perfumers were among the first in Europe to utilize these luxurious materials.

The 1920s in Venice was a period of significant artistic and cultural activity. It was a time when the city attracted writers, artists, and the wealthy elite, making it a symbol of sophistication and luxury. The fascination with the exotic, combined with the glamour of the Jazz Age, made themes of far-off places and luxurious materials very appealing.

The name "Ambre de Venise" immediately conjures images of Venice's grandeur and its historical association with trade and exotic goods. It suggests a perfume crafted from rare and precious ingredients. Ambergris was considered a highly prized ingredient in perfumery, known for its unique and intoxicating scent. Associating the perfume with ambergris underscores its luxurious nature. The mention of "amber" also implies warmth, depth, and sensuality, qualities highly desirable in a perfume.

Paul Poiret was known for his opulent and innovative designs. Naming a perfume "Ambre de Venise" aligns with his brand's emphasis on luxury, exoticism, and artistic flair. It also suggests a connection to history and tradition, which would appeal to customers who appreciate both the old-world charm and the modern sophistication Poiret represented. The name "Ambre de Venise" evokes romantic and sensory imagery: the bustling Venetian ports, the mingling scents of spices and the sea, the opulent palaces, and the city's artistic heritage. It stirs feelings of mystery, adventure, and sophistication, making the perfume not just a scent but an experience of cultural and historical richness.

Women in the 1920s, especially those in the social and cultural elite, were drawn to sophisticated and exotic products. A perfume with a name like "Ambre de Venise" would have been seen as a mark of distinction. The allure of the exotic was a significant trend in the 1920s, with many women embracing styles and products that hinted at adventure and worldliness. Wearing a perfume named "Ambre de Venise" would allow women to express a sense of luxury and refined taste. It also offered a way to connect with the romantic and glamorous ideals of the era, embodying the spirit of exploration and opulence.

Ambergris was used in perfume primarily because of its unique properties. It has a complex, musky, and sweet scent that enhances and stabilizes other fragrances, giving them greater depth and longevity. Additionally, ambergris has fixative properties, meaning it helps other scent components to bind together and last longer when applied to the skin. Its rarity and the difficulty of obtaining it also contributed to its status as a luxurious and coveted ingredient in high-end perfumes.

In conclusion, Ambre de Venise by Rosine, launched around 1925, would have been a highly appealing name for a perfume due to its rich connotations of Venetian trade, exoticism, and luxury. Paul Poiret's choice reflects his brand's identity and the cultural trends of the period, capturing the imagination of women who desired both sophistication and a touch of the exotic in their personal style.

Chez Poiret by Rosine c1912

In 1912, the launch of the perfume Chez Poiret by Rosine coincided with a fascinating period in the world of fashion and luxury. Paul Poiret, a leading figure in the Parisian fashion scene, was renowned for his innovative designs that broke away from the constraints of traditional corseted fashion. Poiret's creations were characterized by their sumptuousness and exoticism, often drawing inspiration from Oriental themes and colors. His visionary approach revolutionized women's fashion, emphasizing comfort and freedom of movement, which were radical departures from the prevailing styles of the time.

The name "Chez Poiret" for a perfume would have been highly appealing for several reasons. Firstly, Paul Poiret was not just a fashion designer but a cultural icon whose avant-garde designs captured the imagination of fashionable women across Europe and America. Associating a perfume with his name would evoke the allure and sophistication of his couture, appealing to women who sought to embody the modern, liberated spirit he epitomized. The term "Chez," meaning "at the house of," further emphasized exclusivity and luxury, suggesting that the fragrance was a product of Poiret's esteemed fashion house.

During this era, around 1912, Paris was the undisputed center of the fashion world. Luxury liners like the Titanic ferried wealthy passengers to the city, where they would eagerly purchase the latest fashions and accessories from designers like Poiret. These travelers were not just buying clothes; they were buying into a lifestyle—a world of glamour and sophistication symbolized by figures like Paul Poiret.

Women of the time were drawn to Poiret not only for his designs but also for what he represented: a departure from Victorian-era norms towards a more modern, independent womanhood. His bold use of colors, luxurious fabrics, and incorporation of Eastern influences resonated with a desire for novelty and adventure among women who were increasingly asserting their rights and freedoms.

In summary, the launch of Chez Poiret by Rosine in 1912 tapped into the zeitgeist of the era—a time of burgeoning cultural change, increasing women's liberation, and the allure of Parisian luxury. The name itself carried connotations of exclusivity and avant-garde style, making it a compelling choice for fashionable women seeking to embody the spirit of the age through scent.

Radio-Lait de Rosine c1930s

Sang de France by Rosine c1915

Paul Poiret's creation of the perfume "Sang de France" in 1915 was born out of a deeply personal tragedy—the passing of his daughter Rosine earlier that year. As a renowned figure in the fashion and perfume industry, Poiret sought to memorialize his daughter's memory with a fragrance housed in a distinctive red crystal bottle shaped like a stylized human heart. This design choice was laden with symbolism, representing Poiret's enduring love for Rosine and perhaps alluding to the profound emotions of wartime, where the color red often evoked both love and the sacrifice of bloodshed.

Adding to the bottle's poignant design was a frosted glass stopper fashioned in the shape of angel's wings. This element symbolized Poiret's hope that Rosine had found peace in heaven, transformed into an angel, and conveyed his heartfelt wish for her eternal happiness. Together, these elements—the heart-shaped bottle and angelic wings stopper—transformed "Sang de France" into more than just a perfume; it became a profound memorial to Poiret's grief and his deep personal loss.

The launch of "Sang de France" in 1915 occurred amidst the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by immense national turmoil and sacrifice in France. The name itself, translating to "Blood of France," held significant patriotic connotations, resonating deeply with a population grappling with the devastating effects of war. For French citizens, particularly women who found themselves shouldering new responsibilities and mourning the loss of loved ones, "Sang de France" offered not just a fragrance, but a poignant connection to the collective spirit of resilience and sacrifice.

However, the perfume's release was reportedly met with resistance from authorities, possibly due to sensitivities surrounding wartime imagery and emotions. This reaction underscored the complex interplay between personal expression and societal expectations during such a solemn period.

In summary, "Sang de France" by Rosine stands as a testament to Paul Poiret's personal grief and artistic expression amidst the turmoil of World War I. Through its symbolic design and evocative name, the perfume encapsulated themes of love, loss, and hope, resonating deeply with a nation navigating the profound challenges of wartime.